Zorro

ok my sarcasm seems to have been missed some how? JZP, my last comment was largely directed at Methz & to a lesser extent the mafia! Dude seriously, its your car, your egine, your money do what ever the f you want to it! I gave you my opinion & thoughts regarding this mod (for whatever its worth) , as im going down a similar path! I couldnt give two shits about looks, performance & reliability are my main concerns! Im even going to give mine a black wrinkle coat finish, cos shiny is the ghey! The cheap ass manis are fine if budget is number one priority, they work (so long as you dont get one with a pourosity problem), the genuine GReddy ones (which all the cheap ones are copied from) are proven performers. The plazmamans, RIPS manis etc are excellent, and lastly the rb26 itb manis are cool (you can even get a nismo plenum section), but a pita to fit & expensive, but for some reason i like the idea of it & i can do it for a fair bit less than 2k! Rob @ RIPS modifies the rb25 runners to adapt the 26 itbs & plenum so you can still retain the vct, correct injector position & water pipe for $850NZD! good luck!

yeah fn lol at the people who think they know it all! - well said lololol oh the irony! Oh look its shiny it must be better..... seriously I used to sell those Autobarn plenums, they are cheap crap! But hey if its looks you are after then as long as it works you'd be happy! IMO there is nothing wrong with the look of the rb26 setup, but the itb setup is superior & its performance is proven! The cost is higher, and i think its worth it for what im doing, its not going onto a std 25, but a fully built 25/30 & im fully aware of whats involved! Blitz is right plazmaman makes a very nice plenum setup too! But i can understand you wanting to defend your pos manifold that you got ripped off on.... after all it is shiny! lol

The Autobarn plenums are cheap crap, they are the same as the chinese ebay ones! Im looking into either a Greddy or going the rb26 itb setup myself! Greddy would be alot easier & cheaper, but the rb26 itbs are cooler! Im leaning toward the itbs & RIPS can do/(supply) all the coversion work too!

EY & id use heatrange7 for what your doing rather than 6.

Here i saved you the trouble: E vs EY CP vs K

Nice cut n paste rekin, anyway.... Proof, if you have em on the shelf or next time you are at your local parts store, get them to put all three (E, ES, EY) on the counter and look at them, all the proof you need!!! (& for the hell of it get a BKR plug aswell) BCPR#E is not the same as a BCPR#EY, yes both are v-groove (E used to be solid), but there is a projection difference (quite significantly shorter in E, ie: will foul quicker in an RB)! Simply looking at a website or catalogue doesnt make you a professional parts interpreter, a little knowledge can be dangerous! Why is there a solid 's' and a v-groove 'y', well not really sure why solid hasnt been made redundant yet, as the v-groove is superior & the same price, but many car makers still recommend solids, so eh!

Ethanol is hydrophilic, which basically means that its best friends with water; the two love to hang out and corrode sh!t.

The part number on those plugs, is that BCPR6E or BCPR6ES ? (ie: did you put the apostrophe "s" after for plural or was that part of the part number?) The reason i ask is that they are different plugs & no "s" is not the right projection for an rb!

hmmm building one of these engines sure is a costly experience, but i suspected that more oil in the pan is a must....!

how would you drive it? Would i lose my A/C? or my balancer? I prefer the idea of the 2j style pump & nitto said they were testing and shouldnt be far off??!?!!

So whats happening with these 2j style pumps? NITTO have you got any good news for us yet? Im very interested! Have been looking at Tomei as an option, but i have heard of them breaking too as they have no room for movement. But the Tomei has external pressure adjust as a small bonus! Also considered the N1 pump with Billet gears, but still not 100% trusting of this setup, even with a collar, ross balancer & girdle brace/awd adaptor, im not sure its worth the money saved? So hopefully these 2j pumps will be available soon, as i will need to finalise this pump descision soon, so i can finish building my rb30! I also have the tomei sump baffle setup on the standard gtr sump, spool head oil drain & i think a 1.5mm restrictor & a HKS thermostated oil cooler, but was wondering if the expense of an extended sump (~$1300) is really nessesary or is it just a luxury? (*predomanently a street car, but will see a few circuit & club events each year! **also will be using motul 300v comp. oil)

Just thought id also add, that colder is not always better! Getting the correct range is important to efficient operation. Try this little exercise: time how long it takes you to travel from a to b on your normal drive, then using a stopwatch (may need assistance) time just how long you actually spend accelerating. You will most likely find it is less than 10% of your drive! Therefore standard recommended heatrange is fine for most or one colder if you have mildly modded it or push it a bit occasionally. If your normal drive is getting up into the hills and going for it, you will find accel times are around 20-50%, in which case your gonna need colder plugs to deal with this. Go out to a track and 70% is common, frosty cold is the go! NGK heatrange numbers get colder the higher the number is (other brands have a different system)! *Also worthy of mention is that these hetranges are recommended based on the use of benzo, long chain hydrocarbon based petroliums (unleaded, premium98 etc). However, short chain alcohols (inc E85), gases and other exotic fuels will require a different heatrange (usually colder), possibly also gaps, projection lengths, electrode material types & cathode constructions etc! Thats my 2cents, take it or leave it!

sparkplug 101: plugs de-mystafied one post at a time! LOL this is the problem with taking the advice of someone who really doesnt know or understand spark plugs, but just regurgatates some BS hes been fed! Probably why plugs seem to be such a mystery item?! Prime example is thinking that cold plugs help with cold starts, when they dont at all, if anything on a micro level doing the opposite! Heatrange is for matching operational combustion temps. So for city crawling, low engine speeds & light loads, lots of deacceleration, lots of idle time, stop starts etc means carbon buildup & other deposits form, fouling plugs, causing hesitation, poorer economy & higher emissions, requiring a hot plug to be used (the term hot and cold, can be missleading). Whereas in high rpm, high load, WOT conditions, a colder plug is needed, for several reasons, reducing the chance of pre-igniton is one of them! It is a bit more complex than that but for the scope of this thread that is more than enough. Also what is with the insistance of using the 'S' plugs, when 'Y' plugs are the same price & just as available, but are superior in performance? Not to mention the use of K plugs for the rb25.......... *expect to pay up to $5 per plug for "copper" NGKs'! You wont get them for $2.80ea from any auto store, the actual cost from the supplier is around that! I have CP & K in all heat ranges, gaps & types on the shelf, any decent parts store should & i can have IRIs in half a workingday. BKR7EY (or BCPR7EY) are perfect for spirited street use, if your pinching your pennies or IRIWAY7 if your wallet is deep enough &/or your a perfectionist looking for max performance (use 8s if your gonna hammer it 24/7)! Also the platinums are quite a good plug when selected correctly, with a great reliable service life; just pricier than copper and less performance than the iridiums so thats why they arent first choice for a tuner, but are recommended by Nissan! The "Racing Iridiums" (IRIWAY, IRITOP.....etc) are the best you will get, far far superior in every aspect (except price) to any other plug! Why else would NGK and NISMO, HKS etc pour hundreds of millions of dollars into research, development & testing, and use them in ALL their cars? But your mates, brothers girlfriends cusions, nextdoor neighbour, said that a guy he met a the pub one night knew a guy who had one of those cars and said his tuna told him that lawnmower plugs are fully sick & shouldnt use anything else! But in all seriousness consult a professional with regard to what plugs are best suited to your setup & use, then you will never have this problem! I just wonder how many people actually read all the posts (& understand them), before they feel the need to post themselves?

245 should be fine mate!

tuck n roll!

Not too sure about stock r33 gtst, but im using aftermarket coilovers from a r33 gtst in the rear of my s1 rsfourv. *You will need a dremel, drill & a hammer!

Dude stop using those plugs immediately! They are non-resistor, thats why your ecu is spazing out & non-projected, so probably spitting fuel out too! Ok this has been covered so many times its not funny, however the info often given is only half right! So here goes again...... Cheap ($4-5ea) reliable plugs are : NGK BCPR#EY BKR#EY # = correct heat range number (ie: 6->8). *These plugs are gapped at 0.8mm std, but a suffix of -11 or -13 or -15 indicates a larger gap than std 1.1mm, 1.3 etc Service life is about 5000km! (less under extreme conditions, such as high psi turbos) **also note that -Y is for V-groove electrode, a much better performance design over the old standard -S type (pretty much the same price)! The standard plugs are not iridiums, but platinum plugs PFR5G-11. These are a hotish plug with a larger gap, than what we prefer to use, they are suitable for mundaine city crawling, but not performance. But reduced gap and colder heatrange (pfr7g), would give similar performance as the "copper" plugs, but a much longer service life of >50,000km. Standard iridiums (ie: BCPR6E -IX) are not really meant for extreme pressure/turbulance turbo applications, but the racing iridiums (IRI-) are, although quite expensive ($30-35ea)! *0.8mm gap std. IRIWAY# IRITOP# * I recommend a heatrange '#' of 6 for stock engines, 7 for moderately modded with psi increase, 8 for heavy mod with >20psi (hicomp turbos >15) & 9 for extreme rpm outright racing. The use of the CP or K (likewise WAY or TOP), are compatible with each other as far as our application is concerned, so dont stress too much over which one you get. One is the JIS standard and the other is ISO standard, all of about 1.5mm difference in the metal body length where the hex is. But to be precise, the RB25's use K or WAY and RB26's use CP or TOP. To be clear on the gaps, tuners agree that for the stock ignition sytem, in modified engines reducing the gap from 1.1mm to 0.8mm gives a more reliable spark, reducing missing and hesitation & other ignition nasties. It is possible to increase that gap with upgraded ignition systems, which could gain some performance and economy from reduced kernel quenching (igintion flame front propagation shielding) & reduced emmisions. However it is a bit of a trade off between the ideal and the actual! For the sake of simplicity stick to 0.8mm and you wont have any trouble! If you want me to pick a plug for you, go: BKR7EY every 5000km. (I use IRIWAY8). *** With regard to the other side topic: The RB25 breathers are linked from factory, with a single common breather off the drivers side! ****Just FYI, i sell these all day every day, its my trade!

So how do you actually get the bars off to start with? (do i have to remove the roof lining?)

Bubba mentioned towing instructions from the stagea manual in another thread 'duncans torque split........', OP it might be worth giving him a pm! "The are plenty of warnings in the manual about how to tow and what not to do.. but absolutely no warnings in regards to the 2WD mode.."

Ok well the garrett website doesnt seem to indicate an internal gate 35, with the 32 being the largest they list, so i might have to do a bit of digging & jump on the dog n bone! I was under the assumption i was stuck with a 3037...... might just get that 350 after all! Yeah tell me about it 4bidn, I have a fairly impressive spec list so far, sporting a whos who of performance parts, but the budget is well n truely blown..... problem of working in the parts industry, constant temptation!

haha ah the magic dyno, anyway..... yeah after reviewing the compressor maps of various turbos (much more accurate than using hp suggestion) & comparing to my engines air consumption needs, i will be falling into the 'choke zone' in the last 1000-1500rpm, so i might fall abit short but will be into the 300s for sure...... could always use E85 to get my target! GT35 internal gate? really, who makes it? didnt think you could get anything bigger than the hks? hmmmmmm, i do like the specs of the new garrett gtx35 turbo though, so maybe a hybrid of sorts might be the go?!

Well maybe, i think it is possible, as the hks flows more than the garrett, even though they are the same size, but at best i know its a stretch. 300 should be pretty easy which i would still be quite happy with & 750nm plus would be grin inducing! The gt32 is also an option, for a little more top end at the sacrifice of some response, but im trying to avoid the gt35 route (unless it was a track car, but then id probs go a to4z)! Im also attempting to do this lowmount & internal gate (yeah i like a challenge), the results should be interesting & atleast it will be a bullet proof street rocket, even if i dont make target! Also i dont like calling turbos by hp, a 500hp turbo doesnt mean you will make 500hp, no more no less, it just a rough guide to suggest, that for its intended use, this may be a suitable turbo for the power goal your intending to achieve. Although there has been plenty of trial error & results with these turbos on rbs. Im still confident that i will get close! (also my driveline will be getting some serious attention too and i will attempt to limit losses as much as my wallet will allow..lol!)

haha yeah its a very debatable topic and straying from OP, so we'll leave it at that then (i'll meet you in the middle 500chp=275rwkw)! 500 is possible but dont expect too much change from 10G! Yeah my new 30 is soaking up cash fast, with a fairly extensive amount of work & parts, >20G later and i still havent got my turbo or ecu, nor is it in the car yet! Im chasing a target of 350awkw & 1000nm, which im hoping to do with a hks gt3037pros, or the back up plan is a garrett gt32 (trying to keep max response & torque, even though the turbo will be pushed, im hoping mechanical HP will get me there! ). My thoughts anyway.... my estimates are usually alittle pesamistic, but then im never dissapointed in my results!

Mate, what I mean is, review your maths ^. 206kw at the crank is ~276hp, your stating 150awkw (or are you driving a rwd stagea?), which is ~201bhp, so theres a 75hp drop, stock (thats a >27% loss)! Now your nearly doubling the power to 500chp ~373kw. So lets just assume you have a magic gear box and its efficency is linear, the estimated power (using 27% loss) would be 272awkw or 365bhp; a 135hp/101kw loss! Thats still away off 300awkw & then account for additional losses; my estimate is looking pretty good! *edited for grammer & a rounding error! lol