NickR33

I don't find the Nankangs that bad... have 225s on the front and 255s on the rear... was a bit dodgy in the wet with my old suspension setup but then again it was dodgy with the Pilot sports I had so... mind you if your driving 'on the limit' in the wet in a 1400kg 350bhp rwd your always going to struggle for traction... (and your sanity)

totally... I spent a grand on cams and there is no contest between the effect of that mod vs when the cooler went in... the cooler won hands down! but I kinda knew that would be the case;) so yeah, save your money

yeah I don't see the point at mr crusts level of modification... unless bigger turbo and fuel system are waiting in the wings... even then I would be looking at cams instead... however it all changes if the head is stuffed and needs a recondition or you plan on running sky high revlimits in a GTR its a different story

get a quote... if its more than a couple of hundred $ don't bother imo...

yeah... I haven't seen shocks, springs and camber kit that cheap before... provided the quality is good that's an unbeatable price... something to definately consider if your not going to track your car and a much better option than second hand jap coilovers IMO don't forget swaybars too if performance driving is your goal

when you lower a car like the skyline with double A arm suspension and independent rear suspension (IRS) the angle at which your wheels touch the ground becomes more exaggerated the lower you go... so that your running on the insides of your tyres... meaning your not using the full face of the tyre, which causes premature tyre wear and wheel spin under strong acceleration from a standing start (even more as the rear end squats and the camber increases) a camber kit are just bushes (little rubber mounts) that correct this problem and can be had for a couple of hundred bucks installed

I have this kit ^^ on my 33 atm and it makes the car much more rewarding to drive... I would have to be making a mockery of the speed limit and road rules, to push it anywhere near the limit of its handling on the street... (or using stupid amounts of throttle around tight corners) it is also extremely compliant, which is good with the amount of speed bumps around my area! the shocks are Bilstein and I am extremely impressed with their performance... and I should be as they come standard on a number of high performance European marques cost is the only issue... I started with a set of King springs until the standard shocks cried enough and then upgraded

yep fractured my elbow... no cast (just bandage and sling) but was too sore to move for a week... doc advised against driving but I did anyway as soon as the pain subsided... not sure of the legality but I found gearchanging was fine it was just if I needed to steer with both hands in an emergency would have been a little dicey... all depends on how bad the break is... if it is a serious one I wouldn't be moving your arm for several weeks as the bone will take longer to heal (and may not at all) oh and then there is the fact that if it heals crooked they may have to rebreak it! ouch

nice! bang for buck I like... must go hunting for a vg30 exhaust housing

I just learnt a whole lot about swaybars thanks SK.... and stop whoring my thread! he he ps. whiteline gear is in the car and I'm already enjoying myself... love the Bilsteins too!

don't hit the limiter it will die in the ass before you grab the next gear... your MPH indicates a mid to high 12 sec pass if you can get the 60ft time down to 2 flat... I suspect your suspension setup to be at fault... common errors for drag are too stiff a rear suspension and too much neg camber at the rear as the car has been lowered? modern IRS cars don't like to be lowered or you will just fry the insides of your tyres... which is even worse with wide tyres... get some camber adjustment bushes should help get the beast off the line

thanks SK I was just going to pm you but I thought I would throw it in the forum and everyone could benefit... cheers

Hi guys, I recently bought some of the whiteline adj. swaybars from SK's group buy (for R33 GTSt) and was after some comments from people who have done the same. Some of the questions that come to mind are: What settings are people running for daily? and for the track (while on road rubber)? Has anyone set them for motorkhanas (while on road rubber)? I am assuming they don't make much of a difference for drag? Is it possible to set them up too hard and have problems on the street (eg bad tyre wear)? Any comments are welcome. Cheers

shipment was confirmed yesterday and my parts arrived today... can't beat that for service, thanks Gary!

dude power fc aint going to help... you have more than likely done the piston rings which would account for the lack of oil... stop driving it and get a mechanic to have a look asap...

why oh why doesn't Mazda put a rotary in one damnit!

pics of them on your car?

when he says turds I get this image of Stan's sister off Southpark... only funny if you watch southpark but yeah...

I have Arias at 0.0045" and I wouldn't go any more than that in a fit... would anyone with a motorsport background care to comment on a recommended clearance of 7thou... in my limited experience this would appear to be quite huge!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}> I vote this 'Lamest Insult for 2005'... seriously tho... what is a dicksnap?

7 canaries in 1 year... you must be retarded...

this may be a silly question but does anyone run with the heater on during track days to cool the motor (esp. those with stock radiators)?

cops showed up at my house one morning and I crapped myself because they had complaints of a loud car by a neighbour... but it turned out it was my old mans Alfa that had been complained about! and the cop just spent 10mins chatting to him and left without so much as a warning!

whoever sold you the dump pipe is laughing right now... did you dyno the car with the exhaust dropped to make sure there was a restriction? more importantly do you already have some kind of fuel management because the standard ecus tendency to richen the top end mixtures when boosted will rob you of alot more power than the stock dump pipe... In fact with your 'highflow that is coming' you may want a ecu that lets you adjust the ignition timing not to mention that you will probably want to use a/m injectors too... unless your going to run a highflow with an SAFC and standard injectors but your not afraid of frying the rings are you! Finally just cos your car was in great condition on the outside doesn't mean that the motor has perfect compression ...remember your talking about a 10yr old turbo car here... and don't even start me on believing the odometer reading! so yeah the stock dump pipe isn't a huge restriction and can happily stay as long as the stock turbo, other things are more important imho

I was thinking the same thing! oh and Mafia have you tried Greenline.jp for the injectors? I find them quicker than nengun mmm GT30...