NickR33

check your thermostat isn't broken... mine was stuck open making the coolant go through the radiator all the time... meaning it took ages for the car to warm up and it would run like a dog!

hahahaha... remember thy golden rule... if thee should spin, thee shall keepist thy foot firmly planted and go all the way around with plenty of smoke... wrx's need not heed this rule (as any wally can drive one and keep it straight!)

when it lets go (I am assuming you will push it until it does?) can you post up some pics of the internals... I am especially interested in the state of the rods... cheers:)

problem solved... made up an adapter out of a brass block so now the oil pressure and oil temp sensors are housed in the same location... although I can't take credit for it as it was all the mechanics idea! (hope it works he he)

ah thanks SK... think I might shell out for an oil cooler ... the thought of taking off the sump, tapping and welding it sounds like way too much work!

here's a quick one for you guys... where have people found is the best place to install water and oil temp. sensors on an rb25... obviously the water temp. sensor could be installed in the stock ones location but the oil temp. where to put it? please help before I do something silly and start drilling into the sump

hahahaha 'mines datsun' great, love running the really complicated ones at the end of the day once my brain is already fried! lol left... right... straight... right... lefstraifgaghh *spin*

mine was the opposite... was fine before the rebuild and after it has been sluggish and reading low... pressure is fine on external guage... just assumed with all the mucking around it had been damaged but dunno

the general level of driver down the GOR truly maddens me... do people realise it used to be 100kmh and the roads were much worse!... not to mention people have no idea of the capailities of their cars... they rush out and by V6 this and independant that but ride the brakes through every coner... cut corners... fail to accelerate up hills making you slow down and have to drop back several gears... and can't safely pass to save their lives! and if you are just cruising well under the limit and enjoying the scenery, if you see me in your mirrors (oh wait they would actually have to use them first...pffft) or hear me just move over! I will continue on my merry way and you can keep on doing whatever the fu(k you were doing in the first place! sorry for the rant... lovely bit of road tho... stayed about ten minutes out of Apollo Bay last year, was really great... sure makes driving to the shops a pleasure!

replace suspension, pads, exhaust and ecu first in that order... suspension will most likely be tired and in need of attention and good pads are bang for buck improvement (and brake fade isn't fun)... then exhaust as you can still do this fairly cheaply and ecu as you don't need to be running stupidly rich all the time... this is all assuming you have got half decent tyres on the car already... and some good tuning from there you can go for more power but more power means more wear on components that you haven't upgraded yet blah blah... IMO

I just realised I haven't renewed my membership... will transfer the funds today... who would be best to notify of this?

hey Justin was that you who had a ride in my silver piece of crap last DECA? ...when we got done by Al in the slalom by 0.00000001 of a sec...

transferred the funds but haven't faxed my form as I left my CAMS licence number at home... will fax tomorrow

I'm in again, will fax form on Monday... going to actually try and put in some good times this time... maybe...

I would love one of these too... count me in if you do another run

If you decide to return the car to stock (turbo/fuel system) at any stage let me know as I am interested in your setup... nice car BTW... good luck with the sale!

you gotta ask yourself why your 1.5L low on oil as well? I'm guessing your getting some blow by as your rings are worn... well that's what happened to me anyhow;)

hmm sounds like a big end bearing... maybe possible to just do the bearings if the rest of the motor is in good condition... need to get a mechanic to listen to it asap... I hope it is just the tappets as Randy suggests^^

I run just slightly richer ratios than that and I have a SAFC installed and we have had to take out A HEAP of fuel to get the powercurve to smooth out... unless your ecu has been chipped you have something wrong somewhere! Also That dip in your top end looks like your ecu is pulling the timing back (for whatever reason maybe related to your fuel pump which has been mentioned ^^)... dip in the middle is normal for stock ecu but it could be better

We have Medibank as a client and are redoing their brochures at the moment (well I'm not... but our finished artist is ha ha!) I have worked on their product brochures a number of times and yet still have not read a single one! Even though I have them all in my folio... he he so lazy... oh and I dont have any form of private health insurance either... (the way they word and then reword every sentence to cover themselves from liability is frightening)... so yeah if I get injured get out of my way cos I'm driving myself to the nearest and cheapest hospital lol

Thats the great thing about the Tomei Poncams they will work without any other head mods and will retain the VCT on the intake... but as Bass has said make sure you order the ones for the 34... also be prepared to wait for them to be shipped as Nengun and Greenline didn't have any in stock when I ordered and they took ages to arrive

What!?! how else does one trim their pubes!

I like Greenline better than Nengun as they are quicker etc... but whoever you order from make sure to ask if they have it in stock before you part with the cash as it is not usually Greenline/Nenguns fault when things are held up... they are simply waiting for their suppliers to send the parts

are these the 480 on 2Ltr or 2.5Ltr motors? If it gives me 250rwkw and full boost by 4000rpm I don't care where it was made...

Ferntree Gully Nissan have been good to me... was like $160 for a water pump 12 months ago and about $70 for a timing belt... FYI I didn't change the pully bearings and about 2 weeks after we put the motor back in one of the bearings started to squeel to high heaven and I had to change it anyway... could have been worse;)