skylinekid

yeh im not gonna put the gearbox back in how it is so it doesnt really matter about the oil. its worn the cluster shaft that much that the car sounds like its runing straight cuts. sounds cool but not good wen u realise one day its gonna fail. im just gonna get a secondhand box and probably run either redline or a new oil ive heard of neo synthetic 75-90 very expensive but apparently the ducknuts of oils.

i was running penrite sin 75..... im open to opinions to wat i should have been running.

i can get a 2nd hand box for 1000bucks off a mate here but with running near upto 600hp i want sumthing i dont have to replace in 10000kms or less like this one. the box i pulled out of the car was whining sumthin terrible i pulled it apart yesterday and found that the front gear on the cluster shaft has worn off all the case hardness and is starting to go through the actual gear. i got the box rebuilt minus synchros just all bearings 10000kims ago and got all gears etc cryo treated. there has to be a cheaper relaible option then spending 10g on a ppg dog box.

got a second opinion today off one gearbox diff company ..... was informed dont bother they have had many gboxs blow gears strip teeth etc due to being poorly made and they dont know wat warranty means there. so yeh looking bleek for these gearsets unless theyve picked up there act over the last yr which i doubt. gahhhh ne other opinions ppl

in australia for the os giken gearset synchro helical $4199 ebay unfitted/ even worse $5499 just jap unfitted. par straight cut synchro unfitted $3800. tell me how that is more expensive? the cheapest i found overseas minus postage for the os giken set is actually $3748. im aware i posted $3400 in post 4 but didnt realise it was in american dollars not aus.

ok people if you know of blown gearsets etc list the car, type of box if original box or different or any other details that may need to be included like what type of racing they were doing or wat the driver was doing at the time it failed. i dont wanna hear that you know of one i wanna hear real stories.

the cheapest ive found not delivered to aus just for the kit is 3400. i can get the full kit from par for 3800 plus the added wank factor of the straight cut whine lol. but either way if sumone can find em cheaper let me know

the os giken sets are just as expensive after i get sumone to fit it all so yeh

Right im now up for a gbox rebuild and i dont wanna stay with standard gears. I've done research on sau and for some reason quite a few ppl have sumthing to say about par gearsets but wont say it. Im considering buying the 1st to 4th straight cut synchro box and would like to hear some comments on what ppl have to say about them. Plain and simply dont be scared if you have run a par gearset and sumthing failed or a bad experience plz tell me about it i dont wanna fork out 5 grand for a gbox only for it to be a waste of time. thnx everyone

what about rotors can anyone do rotors for them??

ive had mine on for about 2months and have considerable hot spots on them already just waiting for the shudder to start then they hit the bin. i was also told ap do rotors also but they'll be expensive as shit and the only ones ive found are a different size only 343mm

can anyone guide me on where i can get replacement rotors and pads for the 8 pistons 356mm g4 kits. that arnt ridiculously priced

yeh exactly bet u payed a bundle for it aswell

sorry the images didnt load on the first post this is the car and the engine bay pic.

my engine bay. tomei stroker 26/28 with a to4z in an r33 gtst

heres sumthing ive learnt to do whenever sumone buys a skyline. wen ur battery dies. go to ur local battery shop and buy a 550cca battery that is suiteable for an eb falcon style terminal cut the loops off ur terminal and thread the rod through the battery terminal. also u will need a new hold down bracket for the battery. if fitts perfectly in the spot and give u much more a/h and cca for the car to use. also by the sounds of that mate possibly the terminal is loose and is not makign a good contact check that for starters.

ok well noone is australia welded this tank its machine welded from hong kong. lol

very true but its not actually cracks just tiny pin holes that well basically come out of nowhere and fuel starts spraying around my boot. i know this may be making me sound like a noob it just seem strange that the tank can be fine for a certain period of time then just start well kinda falling apart so to speak. but im gettin the tank rewelded on all the seem to make sure that it wont happen again in this fashion hopefully. but the question still remains about that plastic breather and return line piece aswell. so yeh if u can shed sum light on that it would be great

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ok now comes the time to explain the situation...... ive got a 3lt surge tank in the boot of my car with 2 12inch subs sitting along side it in the boot. yes i have subs in a skyline lol. my first thought was pssoibly the large bass from these subs could be cracking the welds on the tank internally and i have had 2 instances now where the tank have randomly given way at seperate points on the welds and has started spraying petrol in the boot area, not good i have a 1/4 feed from the tank and a 1/4 return back to the tank from the surge tank but after investigating inside the tank i can see that the inlet to the fuel tank on the return side from the surge is made significantly smaller by this device/ piece of plastic hanging off the end of the tanks lid. when i take the plastic piece off it leave the inlet the same size as the outlet. now afta all that is said wat i was worried about was that the surge tank was pressurising which of course it shouldnt be. i 4got to mention i sent the first tank back for a brand new tank and this tank did the same thing but only in 4 weeks not 4 months like the last one. so im deciding to get this tank rewelded and see if i can stop the problem myself. if i havent explained things clear enough tell me lol

after a little bit of investigation it appears that the fuel being pushed back into the tank via the return line creates a vaccum on the breather side therefore i would think pulling fresh air into the tank. once again im not sure still whether i need this im just getting ppls opinions. thnx

Hi fellow skyline owners im having issue with my surge tank etc. first of all i wont explain the situation but ask the question wat is this parts job etc. its found just inside the tank on the return side of the fuel system. its also linked to one of the tank breathers. basically i wanna get rid of and im not sure if i can do so. ne info would be gr8 thnx

for one the gd pro's only came in triples..... the gd max came in twins. honestly not worth rebuilding with just plates due to the factory of the flywheel is gonna have hotspots all over it from slipping the ceramitalic plates. a proper hks rebuild kit will come with a whole new caged assembly with the plate inside and a loose plate for the flywheel side. been there done that 6000kms lata its slips once again. i do have alot more power then u tho near on 550 atw. if u want a good clutch rebuild without being a cheapskate as most ppl are either go to jim berry and get his custom setup carbotic plated twin plate guaranteed u wont slip that. and or direct clutch heard sum good things from them also

i put sin 75 in mine the viscosity u list isnt wat the bottle has on it it said 75-85.... had it in for 5000k's on a freshly rebuilt and cryod box and afta doing sum near on 250km an hr runs the box has developed a mad whine.... admitly the car has 402rwkw atm but still. not blaming the oil could just be a part failure. but just letting u know. sound only developed afta extended periods at very high speeds