skylinekid

r33 gtr's have vct..... wtf no they dont. u crackhead

if ur afta a quality plug for a high boost application get ngk R5671A-8. was recommended by a reputable tuning shop in brisbane i wont mention names of shops. were like 5 or 6 bucks a plugs a lil bit more expensive then the standard heat range plugs but worth every penny if they work properly

everything is the same as early 26 as to 25... except for wen u start gettin into the pull type clutchs etc. im doing a 26 conversion onto a 25 box rite now i used my 25 clutch and flywheel on the 26 crank its all the same due to the 26 gbox has the same size input and bell housing as the 25 box. hope this helps

ok for one ur oil pump is driving off the crank so its gotta be spining atleast. did u put ur sump or ur oil pump on this new engine etc just double checking cuz if the pick up isnt bolted up properly its probably just gettin air instead of oil... seen if happen b4. with careless nitwits. and for one if the top end is noisy on start up and its a new engine out of a halfcut etc its gonna be noisy due to the fact of if its an rb25 it will have hydraulic lifters which may not be fully pumped up yet... start it give it time to get all the oil flowing etc. unless u really dont know wat certain sounds would be etc dont start it and get a mechanic to come listen when u start it. just a few ideas

its really not that expensive unless they charge he heaps for the alternator belt... u could do it urself if ur mechanically inclined not that hard... aslong as ur timing belt didnt snap if thats wat ur implying

i think u can just change the flange im not 100% sure on that but there all r200 diffs sum just long snout and sum short but i couldnt tell ya... if ya capable enough to pull the cradle out on ur own then u should be capable enough to check if that can be changed over... let us know neways and let me know how that gtr rear end goes... ive seen cars up here with semi slick launching one fully stock arse end and never breaking a drivehshaft.... car had bout 500hp tho

and how would that cure the shaft breaking issue....

ok well u sayin this really makes me worry... im gonna have close to if not more 600hp and god knows wat torque.... wats gbox u running still the stocka

my understanding of it all is u need the entire arse end from rotor to rotor the bodies are the same so the suspension just bolts in. im not sure if the tailshafts flanges are the same tho sumthing i never really checked... ne one correct me if im wrong just outta curiousity wat are u doing to break shafts and wat sorta power are u pushing

should be where it is on a manual... underneath the plenum of course at the back of the engine bolted to the gbox... have fun

personally i dont like the sound of the lukey exhausts.... all the ones ive heard sound way to tinny.. and i wasnt aware they made panel filters just get a k&n panel tried and tested

paul email me asap plz.... [email protected] i have sumthin to discuss

dumby fit of the new manifold turbo and wastegate setup checkin for clearance issues against the rocker cover

will have the motor in my hot lil hands 2moro afta noon and then locked safely up inside my house till i organise everything else that needs to go in the car lol. its been a long time coming but hopefully ill have an almost bulletproof reliable engine at the end of it. im known for being hard on parts so this will be interesting i guess.... ill post up sum pics of the engine once ive got it and have started putting bits onto it etc.

has he installed a clutch before.... because if so it works on the same principle u may just have to make up a push rod the master like we had to. and provided its a push type u will need a smaller throwout bearing as factory size is too big

i have a HKS gd max twin plate and its the nicest clutch i have ever used... smooth take offs everytime and loves 7k dumps has never slipped at all that was with 265rwkw. was expensive but well worth every penny imo....

y dont u order sum through a turbo selling company of sum sort gcg type company can get wastegate flanges and v band clamps etc

well considering the ex housing and the internals of this engine iam hoping to see about 620rwhp on 23-24psi if all goes to plan if i can get upto 650 would be nice but its still gonna be a handfull to drive considering it will be on full boost by at least 4500 and rev all the way through to 9000 or whereever the power begins to drop off i guess. considering a larger housing at this point but i still wanna keep a lil bit of the response factor there.

no particular reasoning i was just told by leigh from etm that this is the one ill be receieving due to the manifold was made single entry only....

yep T04Z with a .81 single entry housing which sits on a ETM steam pipe mainfold... all ceramic coated

too farkin much mate..... but ya get wat ya pay for

yippie

i think the word alot of ppl will choose to use is waste of time.... i see it as abit of fun i can slap in a gtr lata ron if i see fit. btw paul im back now

gday mate i dont have ur pm might wanna send it again ey....... im in south australia working atm so i dont get on here much so yeh sorry guys and thnx paul pics look good mate dont 4get to quote on the wings for that sump mate.... thnx buddy

personally mate for 300kw a stroker kit is a waste of time... just use the std crank chuck in a set or rod and pistons or even stay with stock rods for that matter. and abit of head work if ur keen. should be able to even make that on a std head i would have thought