Jayden.K

yeah the a/c is nice and cold just idling and cruising, i would like it to be colder so i have to check the pressures and get a thermometer on me air vents, it doesnt get hot when upping it just not as cold, feel a change. and on a hot day it sucks. and the boosting is on short stints lasting one gear or so driving around town as such, taking off from lights ect. but its a black car, dealing with 36deg days a humidity (love central queensland), but yeah its just that difference when i give it some. but sounds to me i have to deal with it because of the front mount, so more vent sounds like the go?

so i have a front mount intercooler and when i boost up its quite evident that my a/c gets warmer, due to the fact the hot compressed air in the intercooler is stealing the cold air before my condenser. i no the obvious fix (remove the fmic) but i want to know will twin electric thermo fans make that much of a difference to the air flow? has anyone had experience in this area? are there even any kits out there? if anyone has them how have you set them up? all advise will be appreciated. cheers p.s r34 gtt rb25det using a blitz return flow front mount, gtrs turbo on 1.2ish bar

Put you original vac line on the turbo to eliminate your boost t issue

Very confident it's the coil packs. Extremly common problem

i dont no how to put pictures in my post so if you PM me i can then email pictures from there if anyone is (seriously) interested. cheers

sold to some idiot who crashed it on a dirt road 2 weeks after sale what a dick

yeah keeping my word selling as one, sorry.

hi guys selling my r34 gtt half cut. completely standard. still runs in the half cut. comes with all traction control computers from the boot as well. im selling due i purchase it for a complete swap in another r34 but project has change direction, so i have no real use for it. it has not been change sense purchase. interior is in average condition, no seats just dash, steering wheel, cluster, climate control and surrounding plastics. I am not selling parts separately must go as one. Also it comes with a manual gearbox (still in car). cheers. ...will have pictures soon

this is so tempting sense i live in mackay and looking for a car, what computer are you running??

hi, i know this for selling cars but i am having just as much trouble finding what i want in qld. as title says i want a r34 gtt thats manual, 2 door, 100000km max if possible, in colors bayside blue, red or dark blue, MAY consider black. the less modification the better but simple bolt ons are not a problem. if anyone knows of a car to this description in vgc please let me know. and i live in mackay, qld and its to expensive for me to travel state to state and i will not purchase without inspection. so please qld cars only unless you can convince me otherwise . cheers.

asking for 17000 will negotiate need it gone but in immaculate condition

thanks for the reply, here is a link http://www.carsales....e:15000,Max~0.5 remember price is ONO. CHEERS

nissan r34 skyline gt for sale (non Turbo) 75000km bayside blue aftermarket stereo, lowered springs, 17inch chrome wheels, LED front lights, clear indicator lenses du-luck front bar (not fitted), 2 1/2 inch cat back exhaust with twin tip manual VGC RWC supplied is on carsales.com.au please contact 0402750901 for details make me a offer. located in QLD, mackay, victoria plains 4751

nissan r34 skyline gt for sale (non Turbo) 75000km bayside blue aftermarket stereo, lowered springs, 17inch chrome wheels, LED front lights, clear indicator lenses du-luck front bar (not fitted), 2 1/2 inch cat back exhaust with twin tip manual VGC RWC supplied is on carsales.com.au please contact 0402750901 for details $19000 neg. located in QLD, mackay, victoria plains 4751

hi, i have a r34 rb25de and im considering putting a turbo 25 in it but i want to know if its plug and play considering i get a rb25det complete with computer and loom ready to run. how will the computer work knowing the turbo has traction control will the external features for in the car like dash features (engine lights ect.) work with the turbo ecu would the a/c or power steering be mounted in a different position are the rb25det different in the r33 to r34 as r33 motors are more common and cheaper to purchase would be good experience if i can do a complete swap but if and major modifications are need i cant say im interested. if anyone had done this or knows much about this would be appreciated

I found that the alternator connector at the battery was loose enough to make poor contact therefor no power going to my fuse box and no charge coming from the alternator. so buy removing the connector and join the wire together as one piece i have no connection issues

when u say there a copy, meaning nismo didn't make them? main concern is do they fit properly and still work good??

ok cheers i will try that

I have a r34 gt with a kenwood headunit and two kenwood subs with a 250watt clarion amp. When i turn the ignition on sometimes the head unit will cut out and the subs will kick really loud, seems to happen more often when there is less charge in the battery. when the car is running it can cut out just when taking off or turning my headlights on, even when the a/c turned on in a rare occasion. i did notice the when i put my hazards on that any light that was on seem to dim the same time the hazards would flick on e.g my interior light and headunit lights. At one time i sat there with the ignition on and it kept cutting out every 15 sec or so for around a minute straight, it can be extremely random so there is a serious voltage drop in my car and it may have only been sense the audio install. have already put a new battery in this car recently which is rated 330 CCA. Alternator is charging above 14v and no dark current. i removed my sub power fuse and it did not stop the voltage drop. is there a general reason this might happen or anything particular with the skyline r34 gt. P.S. a larger battery could not be fitted as there is only room for tiny ones!

cheers mate, just some people have said some do some dont. So i wana be sure my does NOT have reverse syncros to eliminate that issue

thanks guys helps heaps, im replacing my clutch, throw out bearing and pressure plate. i hoping its the fix for the grinding and the noise (fingers cross)

well i have diagnose that my clutch is not disengaging so im replacing the clutch plate, pressure plate and throw out bearing. but to be sure does reverse gear have a syncro because my reverse grinds bad trying to get it and my other gears are not the smoothest but no grinding problems, so before i spend my money on these parts a want to be sure its not a synchromesh that is buggered. Also I have adjusted my clutch and made sure all hydraulics are working. Nissan R34 gt (non Turbo) 70000km!!!!

have not done it yet, this weekend i will be all over it

ok cheers mate, will post if this is the fix

also have notice a noise coming from the gearbox, if i push the clutch in it will go away, would this be a worn throw-out bearing?, could this be a reason why my clutch or pressure plate is not working properly? all my gears feel ok, not the smoothest gear changes in it but its been like that sense i have had it, the grinding in my reverse is a recent issue.