Jayden.K

yeah check the sizes please and i might buy them

where can i get solid buckets with different thicknesses and why the shit didnt they have these is the first place haha,

what variation in size is the shims you have or they all mostly the same??

i thought to change the clearance the buckets them selves were different thickness so you put in a different bucket? so there is shims that go in the bucket??

im going to purchase some tomei 260 cams and i have looked everywhere for shims just in case i need to change them, i have had no luck. i assume a set will come with various sizes depending whats needed or if theres a shop you can order them from in any size that would be good. and also im sure its been said a million times but still get 4 different answers, which clearances factory or tomei spec??

+1^^^^

you will gain next to nothing, as its only a 2.5lt, more cubes will benifit from a CAI. plus the stock airbox stops heat soak. dont put a pod on without insulation. no need to explain

i would use a turbo diff as that one i guess is built for n/a power plus sharing the load with a front diff. so it cant be very strong. you may need a different front cross member and hub assemblies to. just be extra weight to leave them. p.s. i was the same until someone offered cash and a lot. im glad i didnt do the conversion

i had a n/a r34, i was happy with it with looks, it was bayside blue and shit so in a way it was worth it for looks and handling, and even after 3 years and only 75XXXkm on it i only lost 2grand for what i paid and bought a wicked turbo one but that was pure luck how much i sold it for, in saying that. performance was so so so so so....... slow!! someone refereed to a camry, i think the toyota is faster. on a hot day it was embarrassing. if you want a quick n/a stay well away from the japs, if it has a turbo model, the n/a will most likely be very slow. there are some sleeper v6 cars out there like toyota aurions or in 4cyl mazda 3 sp25. the unexpected cars have the power. and as for cops, i hardly ever get pulled over on my opens even with a big fmic hanging out, but with p plates on a plain standard r34 i was rapped for ''rbt'' so they say. my advise is wait, buy a piece of shit and your turbo car. spend money on your turbo car so buy the time you get your opens you have had 3 years to build the car you want

ok so i click the one above and it gave a list of the bugs/forum section but e.g. some say (has been covered 100's of times look at this thread................) click on that im back on the home page showing the selections of forums.

ok im posting hear just because most people look hear, but every time someone post a link to another thread, when i click on it, i come back to the forum selection page. not on the linked thread. every link i click does that, it may be obvious but why does this happen?

yeah true, well i dont think im going to do cams anymore, but living in mackay there is no a glimpse of pump e85, so takes my motivation to setup up that fuel as getting some will be a pain, but thanks for the opinions

^^^^ wow that thread was so great, thanks for that really learned something, but i think for now. im going to just chuck some 260 cams in, if i hate it so bad ill take them out and sell them. i think i will only swap to e85 if i have bigger turbo, injectors, manifolds, high lift cam + major head work, forge bottom end and computer. pretty well the works. just enjoying the reliable bolt ons for now hahaha thanks

can the power fc save 2 maps, and maybe a way through the hand controller to switch between maps because i assume a power cannot fuel flex just by o2 readings switching between fuel??? meaning chuck in e85 and your laughing because dosnt e85 stoink ratio different to petrol 98 so a 98 tune cannot adapt to a e85 tune??

Power fc. It's fast but always want more haha, I just wouldn't mind some torque a cam would provide, and a better note to the motor. So I essume the best answer is e85

As above I am keen on type B tomei cams. I have a hks Gtrs turbo and there not that big and the information says there good for mid range larger turbo. So anyone who knows these turbo could suggest type b cams being a mis match?. I want to get the most power out of this turbo as I love the response. Also considering heavy valve springs and porting of the head. No oversize valves planned yet. Thoughts please. Ps it's a r34 gtt neo blah blah

bump

I'm running about same size injectors, same turbo and apexi avcr boost controller to 1.25bar. And mine starts spooling at 2000rpm and I'm sucked in my seat by 3000rpm and all the way up the rev range. Def just feel the boost straight away no creeping.I think I'm running 240rwkw but not sure. And I'm sure mine is on a safe tune as I too have to see the dyno man about my set up. I think larger injectors (depending on my current highest duty cycle) and a good tune will give alot more power at 18psi. Cams and polish and porting of the head should give a responsive torque set up. Recommend avcr

selling my r34 gtt halfcut, im selling due to a project change. It has the neo motor and manual gearbox. it can be heard running. and dash trims are in a fair condition as expected. Im asking $4000 ono. will have to organize freight upon sale. 0402750901: Jayden location. Mackay Qld sorry about the pictures for some reason this is the only one it will let me upload

Ok so using continuity check I found the wire going off the sensor to the connect that went to the original gauges. So I connected the signal wire from the gauge to this wire that leads to the sensor and nothing. I earth to signal wire straight to ground and see if the moved the gauge and the needle just flash and didn't move. They are stir x-line gauges. So I have no idea why it doesn't work. So is there a chance now I have a dead sensor or gauge?

As above my gauge dosnt seem to work. It's lowest temp reads just under 50deg and I'm quite confident it gets higher then that. This car has a aftermarket gauge and it it has a red, black, yellow and green wire. now I'm sure the red an black are illumination power and earth for the gauge. The green is taped up ( not connect) and the yellow is spliced it to the original loom. And by guess my sensor is on the oil filter plate and it only has one wire. But I'm sus about the green with that's not in use and really want to know what each wire does so I can test it. Cheers

Ok so no a/c inputs to the fan only when the car overheats, sounds good too me

I actually just notice my a/c electric fan doesn't work when the a/c is on. Is there more requirements it needs to turn on or should it be working??? And I also notice the condenser has had lines blocked off because of a dint. So without checking pressures I'm confidient where a leak is if I put dye in the system. If its even leaking. But main issue is that electric fan should be going yeah??

Well there you go. Thanks for the replies.

the reticulate and atmosphere buttons, when there both off what is it set to, half and half lol?