Jayden.K

sounds like oil from your turbo due to the high flow, or if your motor is on its way out it probably has excessive blow by. i would check your turbo first

i purchase mine with at least $15000 to $20000 put into it (not just motor). which is how much i paid for it worth it by far. until your desire for more power takes over lol

afm always cause so many issue's, even if a new one dosn't fix it at least you know its new and reading correctly

ok before you say its the aac hear me out. so the car hunts on idle. only really bad after some mods which are. 3076r from gtrs tomei pon cams 260 deg now before i done the work it had a intermittent hunt at idle which seem to only happen when cold, but rarely happen so i never worried. then i done these mods and it was terrible hunt. so i had the car tuned and it seem all good then it start hunting all the time hot or cold and it would hunt and nearly stall. put the a/c on which brings the revs up and no worries. the tuner done his part and told me find out whats wrong. sense then i fix a lot of boost leaks (which has made the car not drivable due to it being tune with the leaks) and swapping my maf (z32) which i found it removed the hunt but ran a bit shit so i thought ok the maf is buggered. change that but the hunt was still there but not as bad and ran a bit shit (tuned to a stuff maf) so some progress. before it would hunt the second you started the car (old maf). change the maf and it would idling fine but ONCE you bring the revs up even slightly touch the throttle it would hunt, basically instead of settling at 750rpm it drop down to like 500 and hunt away for a bit and come good. sometimes it would start up with no hunt then WITHOUT touching the throttle it hunt. what is shit is it wasnt half as bad before and if it happen it was only when cold. but it hunts for like 20sec or less then comes good, touch the throttle and starts again, and randomly maybe without touching the throttle. but there is points where it comes good which is strange now im taking another chance to get it tuned and see if we can get rid of it again but im trying to cover all basis. i check the tps voltage and it was hardly out only by 0.04v but i adjust to spot on and made no difference. but im very convinced it wont be tuned out. it has a power fc, fairly old as the timing log thing is slow on the computer if you get me. z32 maf (brand new) 75000km 480cc nismo injectors nismo fpr whatever fuel pump not sure blitz intercooler avcr boost controller r34 gtt (neo) 3076r .63 rear 4 inch anti surge intake type b tomei cams

Do actually notice the 15 to 18 psi difference because what If its going to 18 psi but your believing your faulty displays? And when it hits 18 is it a cold time of the day and when it doesn't its hot??. Your boost controller may have a faulty control solenoid

You have a boost leak or a faulty afm

pressure testing the intake on a turbo car is by far the best thing you can do, you should make a pipe the has a t peice with a boost gauge and a compressor nitto fitting and valve. done this to my car, it was tuned with so many leaks that when they were all fixed the car leaned out across the rev range and wouldn't drive and had to be tuned again. you will be surprised what can leak under pressure, but when your testing have soapy water ready and you will see bubbles from the leaks. so much power can be lost from pressure leaks

gt35 is way to big, gt30 range with a .82 or (1.06 i think) exhaust housing will do it. like a 3076r FFP have no gain but come at a loss, there is a reason nissan made the long runner manifold for low down torque. you would only get it if you went for a high mount turbo because you have no room left to plum back your intercooler piping, i have seen it done but looks like shit and a pain to fit. pc is good but if you got the money def get a vipec/haltec ect. and run no maf, it removes so many issues maf sensors have. or if you want get a power fc detro which is the same but uses a MAP instead of MAF. if you have e85 plans latter you should get a computer that can support a fuel flex set up. power fc will do what you want (make it run/ no fuel flex). others will give you great options apart from simple air, fuel and spark. eg. launch control, fuel flex, ignition retard ect. fuel pump, nismo, boche 044 ect. cams just provide more air in and out, it reduce turbo lag and give better mid/high range torque, off boost will be very gutless due to overlap. i just put 260 tomei pon cams in and theres no lump, even installed without changing the clearances and no issues. you need the next size up for lumpy sound and they require a custom grind in the head to fit, unsure if they keep the vvt-i. but they will be shit unless your running a big set up. bigger injectors the better, you will always want more power, just be aware idle will be a little rough with 1000cc, but dont hold my word it may be ok. once again these will be good if you go down the e85 path

Yeah he had some numbers but the car ran like shit when he set them in. Turns out he may have been right this whole time with the lag times because my maf is f**ked. So once I get the new one in it should all work out. Thanks anyway

Mate it seems like you one way valve in your fuel pump is f**ked. Not holding fuel once it's not pumping. The vavle may be external in line somewhere

Change the duty cycle lower on the avcr to contol the boost early. I just put a IW gt3076 with a tiny .63 housing and I have really bad spikes. I run very low duty cycle to stop it. Good contoller. Gapping your plugs to .80 and checking your new coil packs haven't split/crack.

Should not be to bad to do a full main bearing change on a gearbox then doing all that custom work. Changing gears is where it's a bit of a pain

You will get soot where u don't want it that should be it. May run like shit too

+1^^^ This fixed my popping/slight miss fire under hard acceleration on 18psi

mine does it, i always assume it was because of no cat converter??

i bought my gtt a while ago i have not known what exact injectors i have. i fitted a 3076r and type b cams, using a power fc. and when we went to tune i didnt no what injectors i have, but by already set numbers we assume they where 480cc, they were purple and said nismo on the side so we confirmed that. BUT. when researching the latency specs we cannot find anything at all. the injector on the side has a number 013 4608 we shows nothing when researching, now this car had work done at least 6 years ago including these injectors from what i know. Is it possible these are a old nismo injector that i cant find any information on. just need to know what this number represents, that there 480cc and what the latency times are. please help!! thanks

Does it have a k & n filter that use oil, if over oiled it will suck through the filter onto the maf and affect your reading, specially on boost. Check your coil packs for cracks and for fouled plugs. sense you just got it you should hit up the dyno or road test and check your AFR just for piece of mind. List any mods as this will help us help u

Do you have heat sheild around your pods, heat soke really can kill power and boost levels, I get more boost when the air and engine is colder, aka more dense air.

If there's any possibility it was removed for other reasons then you might as well. It's out of The car so it's nice and easy

not bad. there is much better turbos for what your trying to achieve out there. thats all.

mate it seems at peak boost is when your problem is, has to be either afm or coils/plugs. very sure of it. i put to much oil on my air filter once and when it hit boost at around 2600rpm it hit a wall, point being afm wasnt reading correctly. and coil packs bring on the engine light. on standard computers anyway not to sure about pfc in how it stores trouble codes if it has any

also watch your knock readings, pfc should bring on the engine light once a certain level is reached

pull your plugs out a check if there fouled, and inspect your coil packs for cracks, coil pack are extremely common to be faulty. if you have shit spark it will over fuel and backfire. but if you think its the maf you should check TPS & CPS as well

What conditions did the codes appear. Hard driving? Have you tried clearing and seeing if they don't come back

Should take 10 mins to hook a computer up and read the current dtc that is giving u a engine light, I'm sure you could do some ot at work to give you some cash for labour. U are wasting you time when the current code could help you out Highly recommend cleaning the maf, air filter and changing the fuel filter.