ima_slap_joO

I recently replaced the r32 rb20 oxygen sensor but the wires had been cut and shut previously so I am unsure which is the signal wire, I have tried all three wires, 1 at a time, but I get a really rough idle once it is connected. I think the wire with the insulation is the signal, and the black wire to the sensor is the signal, but I cant be 100% certain. If I wire it this way the idle is very rough, and no amount of adjustment on the IACV will lift the idle, but with the sensor disconnected the idle is perfect, and can be adjusted with no issue. Have a look at the picture and let me know whats what. The sensor is an NGK OZA395-E2

Someone wants a kick in the testicles.

The one at the back of the inlet plenum. Like the picture but not apart! haha

Thanks Sarge, yeah I recall the spring that I lost looked very similar- completely different to the gtr spring you can see there, they are slightly different units I think. Just need to know if the parts are in the correct order, I can work on the stiffness (no pun intended).

Hi guys, Been having idle issues so I have taken the IACV apart to clean any crap out, thing is when I had done it I lost the spring, I have located another one but I need to confirm this is how it goes back together. Also, how much tension does the spring need to have? I am finding it difficult to find another IACV for less than $100 so I am trying to substitute until I can afford it. How do I test if the electrical component of the valve is working? Thanks for the help.

Just as the title suggests, I need IACV.

Hi, just wondering if there is a was to lower the standard boost level on the rb20. Since the car had exhaust and fmic fitted the boost has increased to 11psi at the lowest point, is there any way to lower this further?

Hey mate, see how you go with new plugs gapped correctly, if not, open the bonnet at night and look in the coil valley with the cover off, I had a similar issue and the faulty coil pack showed up straight away, flashing when earthing out through hairline crack. If you pull the bad one out you should be able to see an area of discoloration (rainbow on black) where the spark was earthing to.

I can avoid it happening by sitting at partial throttle for a bit, but I am trying to diagnose the problem, I have never been in another skyline which has done it.

Hey mate, umm yeah thats the thing, the standard 1.1 will misfire as soon as full boost comes on, thats the only reason I have them gapped so low, with them at this gap there is no misfire on full boost.

Well with the exhaust and panel filter it will run no less than 12 psi.

Hey guys, I've had this issue for a while now where once I change gears from revving it out, the car will .....miss fire for 1 or 2 seconds before it starts pulling again, this is at WOT, with less throttle I don't have the issue. I have just changed the coil packs out, changed plugs .8 gap. I have also recently adjusted the TPS as it must have been knocked or something, I adjusted to .48 on reds, car seems to behave according to where my foot is on the throttle, where when the TPS was out it was erratic, I have also changed the TPS. It can also happen when say....cruising in second at 2k rpm, then flooring it WOT, it will miss for a second...then catch on and off it goes. Once it has miss fired in that gear, it will pull to redline, but once I change gear it will happen again, any ideas? I have checked for vacuum leaks, rectified some as now the car does not create positive boost in neutral where it was before replacing suspect hoses. I have stock airbox with k&n panel filter, 3.5" from turbo, stock boost (12 psi) stock BOV and front mount. Plugs have been changed to copper@ about .7 or.8 from iridium @.7 or .8 Let me know what you think it could possibly be. Please note....it isn't one cylinder misfiring, its all of them, for around a second or so. Thanks guys.

I got a crown and pinion for a gts-4. the bearing for the input shaft is munched and needs replacing though....

Hi guys, I have sourced a complete gts-4 rear diff to avoid messing around trying to find a bearing the replace the current faulty bearing on the gts-4 diff I currently have. I have the diff apart, with all parts for the diff in its entirety, the only issue is the bearing in the pinion is faulty. This would be a good upgrade for a gtr for the lower ratios, for someone mechanically minded who is able to swap the faulty bearing as I do not have the skill or knowledge (or take it to a workshop and swap). I also have a fully functioning r32 gtr diff currently on the vehicle which I will be selling after next weekend (I will be swapping if for the gts-4 diff I have just purchased). I am open to offers, for the gtr diff, the gts-4 diff with faulty bearing, or both together, you could use the crown and pinion in my gtr diff, if you can get the pinion bearing swapped for the bearing in the gtr diff. Give me a call on 0425291181, or message me, I am in Sydney.

Hey mate, the RB20 in your gts-4 is the same as any other silver top rb20 by the way, its just the sump thats different, all you have to do is swap the sump/diff over.

OK, so me and a mate have finally taken the gts4 diff apart, I can confirm that there is physical damage to the bearings and cage which sit at the rear of the crown gear (where the drive shaft meets the diff). There seems to be no damage to the main gears, with no scoring on any of the main contact surfaces, and little to no wear on any moving part. The crown gear seems to be seated in the housing quite well and blunt force does not seem to dislodge the casing. Also, I cannot see how I can remove the faulty bearing cage. From what I can tell only the one bearing cage at the very front of the pinion is faulty. So three questions, how do I remove the pinion gear from the diff housing? How do I remove the bearing cage for replacement? And where could I get a replacement bearing cage from? I also have that gtr diff on the car currently which I could possible salvage parts from, but I would rather get a cheap gts-t diff or something for the parts I require, so if the bearings are the same part that would be cool. Thanks for the input

Hi, I have an r32 gts4 with an r32 gtr rear diff, and gts4 front diff, i also have a faulty gts4 rear diff with a noisy bearing. I would like to swap my gts4 front sump and diff, for a gtr owner with a gts4 rear diff (better ratios), so i have matching gtr diffs, and the gtr owner (if they already have a gts4 rear diff) will have matching lower ration gts4 diffs. If youre interested let me know! Thanks.

Don't forget that any oil residue thats in the air coming back through the pod goes past the air flow meter, so it can get quite dirty fast with air coming back through the intake.

Usually if you're dropping cylenders its spark and car misses, sounds like fuel to me. Good luck mate.

Hi mate, could also possibly be an underfuel issue like a clogged fuel filter, I had this issue on an RB20 a few years ago, the fuel filter was clogged full of gunk. Does it drop a cylender and sound like a wrx or surge and splutter and feel like theres no accelerator?

I asked a diff place in western Sydney if they could check the condition of the GTS4 diff on Thursday, as i know it had been run without enough oil which caused the grinding noise. The guy said everything is faulty, crown, pinion, bearings, all without even looking at it. It hadn't been run with no oil, where is definitely an issue because it is grinding but I was hoping maybe the bearing has failed, and the crown and pinion would be OK. He would not even open it to have a look, is there anyone who could possible help me diagnose what parts are faulty? I know the bearing is definitely gone, but I am hoping the gears are OK, it wasn't driven around for long after the noise occured so I am hoping no shavings damaged anything else. Anyone help?

One blistering qualifying lap on qualifying power, a qualifying lap is worth 5 or so laps.

Yeah, I know the front diff is the standard gts-4 diff, 4.375, but i cant run 4wd cos of the rear diff issue, i have the standard diff out of the car, i wanted to swap the gears over to the working gtr diff i currently have on the car, i was wondering if the gears are directly interchangable, even though one is viscous, one is mechanical.

Is the gtr diff mechanical and the gts4 diff viscous? Are the crown and pinion gears interchangeable anyway? I dont want to remove my diff only to find out they wont match, do I need the crown gear only, or the crown gear and the other gear which turns the crown gear?

I know there is an issue, thats why I am trying to get the gts4 diff back. I am currently RWD. Is the gtr diff mechanical and the gts4 diff viscous? Are the crown and pinion gears interchangeable anyway?