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I had the same issue with the hicas, after 70km or so it would just kick the ass out but always the same way, i believe the drivers side rear...would slide to the right, very scary, i had the whole system removed and the lock bar installed. I would have rather keep it, but just way too dangerous.

`Have you been in an R33 with the conversion done? I had the longer ratio in my r32, first and second just seemed much better to drive, after swapping back to the 4.3 the first and second are pretty short, and wheel spin can be a real problem, although I can drive to work in fifth doing 60 at 1500 rpm so that is handy for fuel. Have to admit though the 4.1's just felt better, IMHO. Good luck though. Oh, and I got the 4.3 diff from SSS for around $400 which was fantastic.

Haha this happened to me cos the silly mechanic put a washer under the clutch pivot ball, i diddnt want to drop the box again so i just shaved a bit off the slave cylender rod, worked fine, released the clutch.

Yeah I added spacers to make a 4mm gap to the caliper, it is not hitting I am pretty sure.

Hey guys, I recently changed rims and I have noticed a rather soft ticking when driving and brakes are cold, gets progressively louder as the brakes warm up,driver side, I had a look and the wheel is not touching the caliper, but I swapped back to stock and the noise is somewhat lessened ( further from caliper I guess it is not amplifying the noise). From what I can tell, the noise seems like it is coming from inside the caliper (when pumping the brakes on reds I can hear the noise, and I think if I have slightly warped disks the warp may be pushing the pistons in and out slightly when moving, but where could the noise be originating from? And if there is anything I can do about it? The noise is bearable with the stockies (can barely hear it) but with the rims, the spokes are quite close to the calipers so the noise is really pretty much unbearable (sounds like wheel hitting caliper when warmed up). Thanks for the help.

Hi guys, I have some rims I need gone pretty urgently, I purchased these off another forum member a month ago for $250, one wheel had a major dent on front edge and one wheel had a major dent on inner edge, i had these both fixed at a cost of $270, unfortunately, the offset doesnt clear my r32 gts4 front calipers and I don't want to run spacers, so I have another set of rims ready but I need the cash to purchase them. Anyway, these are genuine 2 piece volk rays AV3, with new 235 45 rubber all round (cheapish brand). 3 have gutter rash, the one with the dent on the outside edge is perfect, they look nice, just cant use them! I want these gone asap. Looking for $400, I have 4x5mm and 4x3mm spacers, and nuts to fit, which cost me $80 for the spacers and 45 for the wheel nuts. Message or call me 0434284396 to arrange inspection/pick up from bonnyrigg heights sydney.

Hey mate, I believe that is just the engine attempting to reach operating temp quickly as possible. Let it warm up, allow it to drop to 1100 RPM then adjust the IACV. I actually idle at around 1000 RPM anyway, helps with the brass button clutch and stalling. BTW, have you still got the original BOV working or replaced with after market atmo BOV?

Well I'm guessing since they touched the engine at all it must have been covered, if the engine is not performing as it should give your insurance company a call and explain it, also have a look at your policy and see exactly whats covered and how. In the meantime call ACCC and explain what is going on, they will let you know what your rights are based on your policy. Surprised it is running at all, like trying to compress concrete.

I had the same issue, as DVS said, double check the TPS again, if you have another unit try that.

May have used the wrong term haha just clean everything, and ensure its back together properly.

Hey mate, the TPS throttle position sensor is a little black box with a plug which sits on the throttle body, there is a plug right facing, and three wires which come out the bottom of the unit, you need to measure the voltage beween the middle and right facing wires of the three wires out the bottom, it should be around .48v at idle, and move up to around 5.v at wide open throttle, if you havent played with this it may be ok, you can also test this on reds without the car on. The valve you are playing with at the back of the plenum there is the idle air control valve, and you will need to ensure all the soot is gone before trying again, take the whole unit off, including the silver housing and give it all a good clean. You can unplug the 02 sensor while trouble shooting the TPS and IACV.

Hey mate, first you will probably want to check your TPS is set correctly, so just double check that is reading .48 volts at idle, if not adjust and reset the computer. Once that is set, if your IACV needs adjusting you should just be able to turn the idle control screw and this should alter the idle speed as soon as you start turning, if this does not occur you may have an issue with the oxygen sensor (my IACV would not alter the idle speed AT ALL with the oxygen sensor plugged in, turned out it was not wired correctly, but once disconnected or wired correctly, the IACV once again had become operable with the idle screw). The screw head should only need to be pretty much flush with the outermost part of the housing, not in too far or out too far. Just make sure you give the IACV a really good and thorough clean as once the carbon builds up on the black diaphragm this adds friction and does not allow free movement once the valve is moving. You should also return the throttle? screw to the standard position, the less variables, the more likely you are to find the actual problem. Why did you clean the IACV? Did you have idle issues previously or? I had idle problems for close to a year, both the TPS setting and the 02 sensor had a massive part to play in rendering the IACV useless, only once I had both the TPS and 02 sensor working correctly did all the idle issues go away, but it was instantly, as soon as the other interferences were gone.

Hi guys, just looking for some internal drive style nuts for these rims, they need quite a ....long thread to reach the hub bolts, I purchased some but they don't reach far enough down to the bolt to reach. I have seen genuine sets for upwards of $200 so any alternatives would be great in Sydney, thanks for the help.

Hi guys, just looking for a set of these inverted style nuts.

hey mate ill take the rims and tyres, call me 0434284396

Hi, ummm I'm here for the umm free beer? I can't see it, is it like in the freezer or something?

Or another wrecker RB20..........

OEM is the way to go mate, you may be unaware of this fact but testicles will hang instantly from your forehead as soon as any type of after market BOV is fitted, so yeah just get the standard plumb backs or get a beanie, hat or something.

Hey mate, is the passenger quarter panel available?

Hey mate, you could be having a wheel bearing problem possibly, the noise usually comes and goes depending on which way the vehicle is moving, ie: when loading the wheel with a bearing issue the noise is louder, when unloading the noise disappears.

How many sump washers can a man have?

hey mate have you got air con compressor?

Have you checked the rubber steering column bush/coupling?Lol.Is the wobble free play in the wheel that only comes after 80k?

You may have ground some shavings into that chamber also, so even if you seal it reliably you have have some tiny metal fragments in the engine.

Sorry to hear, this has to be very disappointing for you! Just get it to a workshop who specialize in nissans, will probably be a small problem. Keep us updated.