Smegul

You are not bedding them in properly then. They worked for 30mins because sanding removed the glaze, but they just glaze over again as you dont bed them in properly. Look it up on google. Basically you want to drive around at about 40km hr and keep applying your brakes and releasing, the idea is to not heat them up much at all, while wearing them in to the shape of the disc. So about 10-20 light applications of the brakes, no heavy stopping or anything.

what? I have 2 broken studs and have never had a leaking problem???

Name and shame the workshop please. That is a serious error of judgement right there, for the sake of perhaps half an of saved labour, these guys have put your motor at risk.

Ive got an rb30 turbo with a really quiet exhaust. The car seems to drive perfectly, run really smoothly. Are you saying It could just pre ignite at any time or be detonating and i wouldnt even hear it? I thought pre ignition sounded like a marble or something in your cylinder, like a really pronounced bang? Also what is the optimal spark plug to run in it. Its a standard N/a motor, high comp, n/a cam etc, with vlt injectors, vlt computer, stock manifold turbo etc. Will be installing water injection soon and trying to push it to 14psi. From what ive read if i get the water right i can lean it out a bit even on the n/a high comp motor. Only problem with doing that is if the water fails then almost certainly your motor will too. Its been going for 2000km and the sparkplugs have no signs of wear, this is a good sign of no detonation right? And in your opinion how much longer (i,e a few seconds?) can forgies handle pre ignition for versus cast pistons? Kind regards, Jason.

A little off topic but cops dont always ride in commodores and falcons. I was up behind kariong shell loitering about one night about 2 years ago, the shittest little car came up, like one of the smallest cars on the road i think it was a charade, late 80's model or something, anyway pulled up and 5 cops jumped out in jumpsuits, started harrassing all of us.

Dude how does it require skills. You mash the pedal and brake etc, dump the clutch is manual.. and steer. That is it. Anyone could do it.

Yes, its like a clutch it wears out over time. Changing the fluid will help keep wear to a minimum, but its not going to help AT ALL gain any lost LSD back.

I guess we are too nice to chicks on here. Ill be honest, a diff for 4k your getting fkn ripped and the whole this is just a stupid idea. Oh, and pics or GTFO!!

whats a leak down test?

Wow that looks the goods. 6 stage dry sump!!

What if i told you a way you could double or tripple that money in under 5 years, or have over 8 million bucks in the bank by the time you retire?? Do not spend 40g on a motor . The 1000hp r33 that jeremy clarkson was reviewing was selling for 50 000 pounds, and had a 150 000 pound motor lol Its a false economy.

yea u should bring the 31 man

I thought to bleed the brakes, put pressure on the pedal, open nipple until pedal stops, close nipple, release pedal, repeat over and over.

well thats why i was asking if its ok to do it...thanks for you informative answer...not

lol. I use syringes, 200cc.

Oh yeh i saw you hooning past me i was in a white turbo 31

Hey guys Got an r31 silo with chrome trim thats all oxidised and looking not so chrome anymore. Can i simply respray those straight over the top with a chrome spray can? Will this look ok?? cheers p.s is it hard to remove those trim?

Another way you can do it is remove the top timing cover and make sure sure the timing marks gear are pointed straight up.

Ummm no sorry completely wrong aswell. Generally TDC refers to TDC of the compression stroke, i.e the fuel and air are compressed ready to ignite. So both valves would be closed just waiting for the spark to come. Thats why the dizzy arm is pointing to number 1 spark lead.

Completely wrong but even if you were right then how would the motor be in the correct crank angle? This is how I do it, there's probably a better way out there but this works. Take out cylinder 1 spark plug and stick a long screwdriver down there. Now rotate the crank by hand (with a socket/spanner on the end crank bolt) until the screwdriver goes up. Keep turning crank until it reaches the highest position then you know that piston 1 is at TDC. BUT, it could be on the wrong stroke, intake instead of power stroke. Install your dizzy anyway making sure the arm is pointing to number 1 on the cap. Start it up, if she runs fine then it was on the right stoke- the power stroke. If it doesnt that you have to rotate the crankshaft one moretime until the screwdrive goes down and then back up. You should be on the power stroke now.. Its easy to install the dizzy 1 tooth out. You might have to give it a few trys, just make sure it runs the same or better than it did before. From memory i think because the dizzy gear is not straight cut you have to turn the arm slightly before number 1 on the cap then once you slide it in it should force it to line up properly. If you have any more trouble just ask me.

were you in gosford waterfront carpark last night then headed over to woy woy?

Hey New around here im jason from avoca beach. Those of you on the coast might see my sleeper r31 turbo gettin around, dumped at the rear

bumpdy doo i needs prings from you

Looking for a pair of rear standard springs for a an r31 sedan If anyone has some in the syd/gos/newy areas will take em off ya hands. CHeers!

Any1 cruising tonight?