hop1308

Hey guys, so i've got a r34 GTT. and with the help of this forum a few months ago i installed and tuned it. Pretty much my "system" is: 4 speakers - 2 front 2 rear 1 sub woofer 1 1200 W Amp - 4 channel 1 Head deck . I have amped the two front speakers to the amplifier's front ports And i have amped the subwoofer to the amplifiers rear ports bridged. the two rear speakers are connected to the head deck still. On the head deck i have all bass settings set to as minus as they can get (to avoid the front speakers distorting from bass) The amp has the gain for bass set at about 3/4 and for the front speakers at half way. The issue is, I have bass when the system is turned up really loud, however, at lower or normal volumes there is no bass at all. I can tell the front speakers are trying to make a bass sound but dont. and the sub is pretty much not putting any bass through. Any help would be appreciated, thanks heaps.

thanks for all the help guys. yeah it was always a thought that i should stick with my skyline and work it a bit more, but i guess i just cant afford to put more money into it. and I'm not looking to boost it over the 10psi limit for the stock turbo that seems to hold safely. with the VX, fuel comes into the equation and im basically looking for a daily. How come noone is recommending a EVO 5-6? If i manage to find one for that price mark are they not a lot quicker than skylines anyways?

i learned the sad and long way that, in all seriousness, stockish non gtr skylines are pretty slow. Ofcourse they have big potential if modded, but i just dont have the money to let my car's net worth be greater than 10k. commodore brings the fuel issue. I guess the truth is there really isn't a stockish quick car for the 10k mark? I was hoping along the lines of the startlet turbo, or something that might not look so great but is fast. e.g evo 5 for cheap or starlet GT, i dunno lol.

Hey guys, I was curious as to know what the quickest car that is somewhat reliable for 10k max or under would be? I've got a R34 GTT running 10 psi currently, but it simply isn't as quick as it looks lol. I'm sure this has been somewhat covered before, but im looking for current prices and looking for reliability also, as in not too old. 96+? Thanks heaps

boost comes on 2.5rpm i think, thats the low stage 5psi boost. and with the rev cut im guessing you mean like rev limitter? that'd be mid red line im guessing.. not too sure though

i reckon your best or cheapest option is buying them from nissan, they order them in and you get them for about 200 ea i think it was.

im confused, not sure if trolling.. so by gutting the afm you'll increase power, and not stuff up the readings?? and you're saying that a NA with a changed throttle body can make the same amount of power as a skyline running 6 psi of pressure? i find all that reaally hard to believe. someone please confirm/bust this. i won't sleep knowing a NA with cheap mods can generate the power of a turboed skyline running at 6psi.

thanks a heap for that, i followed your instructions with the xover on the amp, and it works a beaut. theres barely any bass coming out of the speakers now with no distortion. my gain is set at 1/2 way for both front and rear. and my head deck has the bass set to like -4 i think. the minimum is -12.

yeah i ended up connecting them to the back. the only problem i have now is to do with the bass. I've asked around and noone i know, knows how to fix it. going with the set up mentioned before, how to i avoid bass coming through my speakers. its like my front 6 inch speakers try to keep up with the sub woofer in the song. and everytime the bass hits the speakers sound so bad trying to make some bass also. is there anyway to avoid this? so the bass is left for the subwoofer and vocals for the speakers? ive got 6 inch fusion speakers. i understand they can handle a small amount of bass but they keep making an ugly pop sound while trying to make bass

oh wow never thought about that. hmm maybe i should connect by rears to my front ports, currently they're not even on. im really not sure with the ohms its capable of running. its a 1200w boss ba-4500. i dont have the box and couldn't find any information on it on the internet. so with your knowledge, do you think it would be safe to have all 4 of my speakers connected to the two front ports, with just the sub running off the rear?

thanks for all the help guys. it was a mad help. i thought i'd have to replace the entire amp, i ended up re doing my power cables and turns out it was a bad ground. tightened everything and put it back together. a quick question though, my amp is 4 channel and i decided to change its set up. i connected the two front speakers to 2 channels on the amp. and where the two rear speakers were connected, i connected a subwoofer with a bridged connection, making it 3 a 3 channel amp sorta. will this end up frying it? its pretty much running -- Two 6 inch speakers and 1 subwoofer

Hi guys, i've got a R34 gtt and ive got all 4 speakers connected to my boss 1200 watt ba-4500 amplifier. ( i know its not the best brand). anyways, the whole amp set up worked well for about 6 months and now all of a sudden if i put my volume past half way the amp just turns off with the protection LED light turning on. im wondering what's going on?

read the first few pages of this thread with the date being 24th January 2012, i overlooked the year and i thought this "defecting operation" was starting today. needless to say i shat myself.

yeah ended up buying the control arm and tierod end. everywhere i called wanted 150+ for the control arm and 100+ for the tierod end. found a guy selling the arm for 80 and tierod for 40. picked up the parts and they're perfect. if anyones in western sydney n needs skyline wrecker parts make sure to give this guy a call. 0410069096

thanks heaps for that, what would cheap prices for second hand ones of those be? are they hard to find? and with the tierod is it necessary that i replace it? its bent a little, but i figured is HICAS even that useful?

Hey guys so i recently slid my rear left hand tyre into the curb ( sadly i wasn't even drifting lol). I drive a (R34 - GTT)the tyre ended up with postive camber, with the tyre looking heaps weird. I didn't hit it that hard though, and from what i've seen the: - rear left lower control arm was bent. I just want to make sure, whats the exact name of this triangle shaped metal piece (left of picture) http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQuhoCVVcZpHS5uCyVQtVF6H25LzvqYMOSIvN6jWRu9k-g_4U_KjrhPROZZsA - also this is the part that confuses me, i bent what looks like a tierod end going to what i assume is the HICAS system. I can't figure out how to get this rod out since it looks like a ball bearing. so how do i get it out? is the part expensive/ hard to find? since it's hicas and not many people like hicas anyways, can i leave the bent one in there? Thanks heaps guys

if you didnt get a proper defect notice then just leave the stuff on, your taking the risk of driving a turbo on your Ps anyways.. but im pretty sure they note it in their system and the next time you drive past a high way patrol they'll pull you over and tear you a new asshole wait it out until you can drive legit i reckon

the massive VAREX written ontop of the cannon itself doesnt help. i wish i could sand it off.. seriously considering just putting black tape over it lol, but that might draw more attention to it :\

couldn't figure out how to do the wiring at all. just bought a new control box and remote. works a charm. car sounds stock with the butterfly closed. I've looked into the legality of it, and it seems the whole system itself is illegal no matter what. because there is a way for that exhaust to be louder than the legal limit, and it can be called a noise cloaking device or somethin like that. not too sure how to get around this if i get pulled over lol

I found this diagram on the internet, is this correct? I don't really understand what its saying. hopefully i can find someone that does :s or this this the correct diagram bellow?

so i finally went to the exhaust shop n got it checked out. turns out my control box isnt working (the little black box that reverses polarity n that) they're asking for $70 for a new one with the remote. I've barely got any cash at the moment and was wondering if anyone knows of any places to get them cheaper? or better yet, i've heard there are ways to by pass the box totally, and just have it wired to a switch or something? i get it takes 12v to close and something about reversing the polarity to open again?

wish i could just make one outta aluminium foil . anyone have any recomendations on types of material to use, e.g which metal? something thats not too hard to get, not too expensive, yet is thin?

okay, so i've finally gone crazy without hearing my turbo for way too long. I've decided to make a box to hold the pod filter in, there are heaps of images and threads on this everywhere, but i've got one main question. if i did make a box to hold the pod filter in, would this box muffle most of the blow off sound that came from the pod filter? and what material/metal is best to allow most of the sound to be heard?

its a sad day for my quiet skyline. might just make one of those half assed covers which look legal but aren't.

well with laws and performance partially aside. is there any way to get the best of both worlds. which is having sound as well as having a stock looking air system. removing the snorkle alone didn't increase the sound noticeably.