hop1308

thing is, if you do get a legal fully enclosed pod filter cover, there probably wont be any sound, similarly to the stock airbox. ahh im going crazy without the sound, contemplating pulling one of the pipes off the BOV valve off, to get a bit of a flutter

ill confirm it for you, im 100% on this, i looked into it a fair bit. it has to be completely enclosed to avoid a fire hazard because the pod filter is made of paper after all. to avoid the paper catching on fire it needs to be completely enclosed. i really dont get the point of those half assed covers on justjap and ebay that only cover the top of it. so does this mean if you have the stock air setup with a metal intake pipe, the induction sound will remain?

seems like making a box for it is the best way to go. however, i remember the cop told me that the box must enclose the pod completely, that is from underneath, ontop and the sides with only one hole for the air to leave. so the pod covers linked above would still be defectable then im guessing? it seems like they just want the stock airbox look but with a pod filter inside it..

Hey guys, so I've got a R34 GT-T and i just got defected a little while ago for a bunch of things which ive fixed up. but i also got defected for having a pod filter that wasn't enclosed, apparently its a fire hazard or whatever.. anyways so ive put the old stock box back in and cleared all the defects and my car is good to go now. but the issue is i was just so used to driving a car that had some sort of blow off/turbo sound. now i dont hear a thing. I dont want to just simply put the pod back on because any cop can see that and defect it easily. is there anything i could do to get the turbo sound back? i was considering leaving the stock airbox there but not connected, and connecting the pod filter under somewhere and hiding it away, but that seems too much of a headache to do. so yeah, pretty much i want the sound back but i want to be able to get away with it without being defect by most cops, i dont mind it being defectable, i just want it to be shifty or hidden or anything like that. any ideas guys?

hmm okay, i might give that a go then. ill post back here letting everyone know what happens. thanks for all the help guys

ive looked into it a bit more, and i really cant figure out what the problem is, and im a bit hesitant to apply 12v directly to the motor without any resistors or fuses in between, just not willing to risk blowing the motor (if its not already blown) i called up a shop near by and they said they'll have a look at it and diagnose the problem for free. guess thats worth a go.

so do i use the control box at all? or do i cut the wires and just hook up the cannon and motor directly to power without the control box? and yeah the remote's light comes on and everything

thanks callan, should i just take the two wires that go to the motor and connect them directly to the power? how will the butterfly know when to open and when it should close though? moodles, they aren't illegal, thats what a lot of people believe though. im sure about this as i actually looked into it, and ive gotten this car through a check after getting a defect for noise pollution, and they let me through it with the varex exhaust when it was closed.

yeah they're actually known to be pretty good exhausts... anyone have information or something i should look into in regards to it?

Hey guys, I've got a R34 GTT and it has a varex exhaust system on it, the kind that is supposed to close a butterfly within the cannon and make the exhaust quiet at the press of a button. Anyways, i bought it with the exhaust already on the car, and the power for the box controlling the butterfly wasn't connected, so i couldn't test it out. I connected everything up after buying it and as always, turns out it wasn't connected for a reason, the butterfly in the exhaust doesn't open or close when i use the remote. Pretty much there is power from the battery going to a small black box which is placed in the boot. from that box another set of wires connect to the cannon end of the exhaust. I've checked the battery on the remotes and everything and it still doesnt work. Does anyone have any suggestions on things i should do or check? Thanks heaps guys

yup, ill probably get to it soon. I just dont have anywhere to put the gauge yet, need to buy a pod or something to hold it in. wish i could just tape it to the dash loll

I dont blame this guy lol, i knew almost nothing about the engine lay out also, and the information given here was helpful but i was a bit reluctant to T into the BOV line. My boost gauge is still sitting in my glove box, haven't had the balls to cut anything and connect it yet either. But just to confirm, is whats said in this post and the photo above correct? if i follow this, would the boost gauge work with no troubles from the car 100%?

okay, i get that. but it gets a bit confusing because, the car i posted the photos of has the standard wing, and you're saying that means its a series 2? yet the interior of it is more like the last photo you posted, the exact same interior almost, except it has the 3 gauges like boost etc. so from this, the photos of the black car i posted, is it series 1 or 2? considering the interior is exactly like the last photo you posted http://i994.photobucket.com/albums/af65/squareznboxez/frontinterior-1.jpg

oh wow, never knew that. thanks heaps. just wondering, the car in the photo i posted, does that mean its a series 2 R34? and is this kind of car a lot rarer? or common? or any information on the differences on the car i posted would be awesome

Hey guys, I was just curious as to why some R34 Skylines look different to the more common ones, I've noticed some of them have this different body kit on them which is stock from the factory, but whats the differences between the two R34s? It's a bit confusing to explain, so i attached photos The back of them seem to have a wider and lower rear bumper with mesh in it, and the front of it seems to have a red badge that is a part of the actual bumper, again with mesh.

i was wondering the same thing, my ones not connected either, no idea why though.. does anyone know what it does exactly?

oh okay, i looked at john's photo and i really cant see where that is in my R34. would anyone be able to describe it a little more, or even have a photo of the actual hose on a R34? Scared of T-ing into the wrong hose, thats all.

yeah i was thinking about using the hose going to the boost sensor, but everyones saying you dont get vacuum off it, only boost. I don't really get the photo of the R33 engine, im not too familiar with the hoses of my R34 yet but didn't want to send it off somewhere just to install a boost gauge. oh and the stock boost gauge doesn't use a vacuum line im pretty sure its purely electrical. A photo of a R34 engine bay or the hose i should T into would be awesome and save me having to take it to a mechanic over this =\

yeah, so if anyone could get a photo of which hose im supposed to put the T piece into, it'd be a great help

I've heard its unreliable and because Im not sure how my boost settings or lines are made up because they're by passing the solenoid, i need something to tel me in psi

mine looked like it had HIDs and i thought it did for ages, actually get behind the headlight area and try to pull out the holder for it, the way you do to change bulbs. turns out most r34s look factory but actually have normal head lights, usually those ice white ones.

thanks for that, does anyone have a photo of the location i can T into? I'm pretty confused about it at the moment and need to know how much psi my cars at lol. It'd be the biggest help ever if someone has a photo of the hose, thanks again.

guys, can someone please confirm, in the photo i posted above i can cut the hose circled in BLUE to instal my boost gauge?

its not letting me edit my last post, but i looked at the hoses under the hood today and noticed that my T- Piece will fit best on the hose going to the boost sensor as this hose is thinner. I have circled this hose in Blue in the picture, so just making sure, is it okay to cut this hose and put the T piece there to run the boost gauge? the Blue circled one in the post i did above

alright, thanks for that. i might just cut the hose i circled in red.