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At the bottom of this thread there are some suggestions too. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=102172

Please dont ask for manuals. Other than that, I dont have a 4WD light, mines a HICAS light, same thing as I have a 260RS dash, and mine never comes on, only when the key is in the ON position but not actually started the car....? But all that said, Brad is spot on, check fluid levels and/or attessa system!

Welcome to your new AdDiCtIoN!

Get one that came with my beast, 880CCA Oddessy marine battery, gel cel I am glad I didnt have to pay for it!!

Contact Matty Spry (sp?) PM NismoGirl he is the man when it comes to tuning! Gavin Wood's AutoTech would have his number too, both are located on the Gold Coast. Other than that there is Mercury Motorsport in Brisbane, they have done all the tuning on my stagea from the time it has landed in AU.

Sway bars and castor rods and the towbar would be the only things I would be interested in.

Frontal Lobotomy required here me thinks...... I dont care if there was a loop hole or not, what a wanker!

Awesome info, but was dissapointed to see red bits instead of pink bits I'll bring it back down if you want to pay for the petrol? OK I'll take the pipe that goes from the wastegate and plug it into the plenum sometime this weekend, thanks dude!

OH MAI GOD! Thats it your banned!!!11!!!!1oneoneone!!! :laughing-smiley-014: As long as you dont post it here for everyone to download or where you can get it, who cares.....?

Yeah might try a couple of more things first and then if all else fails I'll go searching. Thanks again to everyone for your help! Muchly Appreciated!

I know it is frustrating guys, buy yelling and screaming about things isnt going to solve anything is it? I have PM'd Funky about this, but lets all try to stay civilised and deal with this in an adult manner please! BTW I am on no ones side, just trying to keep the thread from going ugly, that's all.

Yet again, Alex is spot on, it came with the car when I bought it, although I know they cost ~$500 last time I checked, which means that I would've never bought it myself, as there are much better things to buy with ~$500 then a BOV! Still it is nice to have, too bad it isnt the new one which you can adjust from inside the cabin, but could probably hook up something if it was really needed, but honestly, I have never been in the position in the car where I want to change the ratio of the plumb/atmo setting.

Problem is that I have NFI which hose to connect to where, and how? Remember I am a noob at this whole, "Lets be a mechanic!" idea . Give me a Axapta and I'll code you up a motor? I'm going to see if the solenoid makes and noises when switching the unit in the car on/off, been told it should make some sort of noise when it kicks in. Also I do have the stocker boost controller sitting there and Gary1 did show me how to set it up, but need different size hoses and cutting this and putting cut there and make sure you dont cut this hose...... I cant remember all that But it is definatly NOT holding stock boost, with or without the Profec turned on/off. So just need to figure out how the turbo timer is seeing the boost, as there is a pipe that goes from the plenum to inside the cabin, and I assumed it went to the Profec, as shown in the Profec setup guide, so there must be a t piece somewhere for that pipe to feed the turbo timer/boost guage as well.......? Other thing is to get a known working boost guage and set it up independant of everything and see what it says....?

Be careful please Alex, slandering of businesses is not tolerated anywhere on the forums. Although I can understand everyone's frustrations, this has nothing to do with JSpec, it has to do with Funky the postage is his responcability, no matter who he gave it to for postage, he should be the one ultamitly responcable for it. Now he has stated his reasons for nothing happening, and if you do not recieve anything from him or a refund, then I would suggest you all submit a bad trader rating. Other than that, there is not much else you can do. All that said I would have to say that people have lives and if Funky is on holidays then there is nothing much he can do until he gets back. If no joy is gained after that, then and only then proceede further.

Has anyone got any pictures of how they secured thier handbrake foot to the floorpan? Mine did have 6-7 welds, but the metal is really thin and the some of the welds didnt go through both pieces of metal, so now it has become dislodged. I have one screw just holding it there, but would like to know if I have to get it re-welded or will 10-15 tekscrews be fine/safe to hold it there? Also will they hit anything underneath the floorpan there, like gearbox.....?

Oh also wierd thing, before the accident, the EBC worked fine, held boost constantly at 0.7bar, didnt spike what-so-ever.

Well, last night I tried checking out the dip switches on the profec and they were set right, so I tried the settings for the "(If Overboost Occurs)" mode. Went for a burl out on the highway and found some wierd things. I got different results for different gears.....? What I was doing was out on the highway in a 100 zone, I would wait for no traffic and then reset the peak on the turbo timer/boost guage and give the accelerator what for. and then slow down, pull over and check the peak. 1st gear peaked at 0.4bar 2nd gear peaked at 0.9bar 3rd gear peaked at between 0.8bar and 1.1bar Then I tried rolling along at about 60kph and putting it into 5th and flooring it, to build up the boost and see what it peaked at. This way it never went above 0.8bar... Wierd thing is that I turned off the boost controller and got nearly exactly the same results, +/- 0.05bar. So how do I check that the wastegate has not had any damage done to it? Would the spring on the actuator arm be stuffed?

Found setup instructions for the Profec B here: (There is also a crap load of other technical things from GReddy here) http://www.greddy.com/dir_tech.htm So might take a look, there are some dip switches which I might fiddle with to see if that fixes the issue, but yeah just thought I'd update here.

Yeah that is why I am experimenting with my GFB Stealth, being able to set it from 100% plumb back all the way through to 100% atmo venting is nice, but really not that neccessary!

You have PM

Yeah but to do that it also means not having baby seats too Good to see you are enjoying your new aDdIcTiOn!

How about a Stagea Events only section, oh hang on a sec, there is..... <slinks back to the stagea section after stirring the pot a bit>

My GFB Stealth makes the flutter sound if the pressure is not great enough to open it to vent it, normally ~3-4psi range, but anything over that and it wakes the dead as it vents It is set to 75% atmo/25% plumback, but am looking at setting it to 100% plumback, just so that it doesnt attract so much attention every time I change gears...

That Greenline one states that it is compatible with Stage models WGNC34, but is this only compatible with those whom have stock ECU's, or are they run independant of ECU? If independant then that is pretty good deal, I would much reather spend it buying something that will work than stuffing around with electronics, but that is also because I am a klutz and would most likely blow up the car Still, good spotting these cefiro, so who is going to be brave and buy one?

Well again thanks for everyones help! Had a go at some stuff and here are the results: 2. Took the door trim off and could see the problem right away. There was a big quarter circle of stirofoam, about 30cm radius. It's got LH stamped into it, and it was floating loose in the door, so I removed it out, mainly because I dont really know where it belongs, and hey presto chango, problem solved! 3. I found the big think cable running from a sort of square module right underneath the ignition and zippy tied it tight and hey presto, works fine, thanks Brad! 4. Well after some pulling, I finnally got the platic cover off the rear door. Took a look and yeap, the wiper had just been unplugged, so I though yaay, too easy, hooked it up and tried it out, worked fine, but hey look at that, the switch for it is off, but it is still going, but at least the squirter works. But yeah now I have to figure out why the wiper goes non-stop, doesnt matter what position the switch for it is in, it sways to an fro quite happily. Happens once the key is put into ACC. So that is probably why it had been dissconnected, tossing up wether it would be worth having an auto electricition sort it out, or wire in my own switch to it, to turn it on and off from the driver seat. 5. Well I have been informed that there are no 4wd dyno's here in Rocky, and the nearest is Bundy, so might as well go back to Brisbane for a tune if I want to in the future. AND after all that, one last thing pops up... 7. Well after changing the BOV to full plumb-back, I went for a quick spin to see what it sounds like, much quieter, pulled up at a set of lights which are on a slight incline, went to pull the handbrake on, didnt yank on it or anything and something goes SNAP! Oh great So I gently tried to dis-enguage the handbrake, which it did, *whew* and drove straight home. When I took a closer look at it, it looks like the actual handbrake mechanisim has a very thin peice of metal at the bottom, and this was welded to the floorpan in about 5 or 6 places. But because the metal was so thin, the welds werent the best, they have just broken free. So I am wondering why didnt they just use some tech screws and tech screw the bastard down. But how much clearance between the floorpan and the gearbox is there? If I do put screws down through the foot of the handbrake and the floorpan, will they hit anything else? Should I try to get someone to re-weld it, of which I am sure they would just break free again........ Any suggestions? Thanks again everyone!