hardsteppa

just after a point in the right direction, have searched but not found any 100% answer on this - I wanted to check the ignition timing on my series 2 R33, I have a pretty basic powered timing light. I've read that you can put the inductive clamp on the timing light onto a looped wire that runs off the coil loom near the firewall, with there being no ignition leads on the motor to run it off. There are two looped wires though on mine, one all white, the other black with a white stripe - anyone know which one to use, or have any other handy info on checking/setting the timing? pointers would be appreciated

I picked up a 96 s2R33 recently, and have found there's no Australian-spec fuel filler insert in the neck. So, whenever I'm going to put some fuel in, the fuel nozzle keeps clicking off, which is pretty un-handy. They hsould have an insert fitted as part of compliance yeah? or is it pretty normal for them not to have one, and it's just something you work around?

Unfortunately, I need to put my 1990 ST185 up for sale, due to a lack of storage space. Mechanically, it's A1. Runs like a dream, and recent compression test gave cold numbers of 155, 153, 156, 155. I've done most of the work on it personally and looked after it with no expense spared, using only quality parts and changing oil and filter at least every 4000k's, etc. I'll start with the good stuff, and details of the car and what's been done to it. All parts/repairs are less than 5 years old if not already stated. Car is located in Brisbane. the car- 1990 ST185 JDM import, black with grey interior. First owner in Australia and re-registered in Qld when i moved up here. the enginebay - completely rebuilt engine just on 50,000 k's ago. 0.5mm overbore, CP 8.5-1 forged pistons, blueprinted/balanced, Clevelite race bearings, ARP rob bolts and head studs, HKS 264 intake and exhaust cams, ATS adjustable timing gears, Engle valve springs, TVIS deleted and plate port-matched, genuine Toyota full gasket kit + valve stem seals, new Toyota water pump and harmonic balancer, timing belt, rebuilt oil pump. ATS TD06 turbo kit with adaptor to stock turbo manifold and external wastegate port to 38mm Tial wastegate re-routed to exhaust. 3 inch exhaust with magnaflow METAL not ceramic hiflow cat less than 12 months old. Samco Silicon vacuum hose throughout engine bay. PWR aluminium radiator with 2 custom install cooling fans. 600x300x76 front mount intercooler with Samco silicon connectors on 2 1/2 inch stainless steel piping throughout. HKS SSQV blowoff valve re-routed to intake. Custom straight stainless steel pipe with K&N pod filter in custom s/steel heat shield box. Rebuilt starter motor, alternator, power steering pump, master and slave clutch cylinders, brake master cylinder all rebuilt in last 5 years or less. Have replaced distributor rotor, cap, leads, with genuine Toyota parts. Have NGK Iriway racing plugs that have done less than 1000'ks, currently running NGK coppers, would recommend the Iriways be used if racing/driving hard, coppers from everyday driving. New battery less than 12 months ago. drivetrain - OS Giken RCD2 twin plate clutch (AWESOME, very streetable and zero slipping), ST205 gearbox, front driveshafts less than 12 months old, engine mounts and rear diff mount less than 5 years old. Castrol Syntrax full synthetic 75-90 gearbox oil used. fuel system - Supra TT fuel pump, Sard 800cc injectors, ATS bored-out stock rail, Toyota in-tank and in-line fuel filters less than 4 years old. Injectors are only at 65% duty cycle at full throttle so no issues about needing to raise fuel pressure or running lean/maxing out the system. Everything fits using stock fittings so looks stock, and no worries about fire bursting out from some poor-sealing fitting. brakes - Wilwood 335mm discs on front with Wilwood 4 piston Dynalite calipers and braided brake lines, and 335mm discs with 4 piston Superlite calipers and braided brake lines on rear. TONS of pad and disc life on all four corners. wheels/suspension - HR Racing Gear 17x7 tiger gold 5 spoke alloys about 4 years old (went on same time as brakes, to clear the calipers) and Toyo Proxes T1R 225/45/17 tyres less than 12 months old. TONS of tread left. Tein super street coilovers, Superpro bushes throughout, Whiteline adjustable rear sway bar, both front ball joints replaced in last 5 years, left side just 4 weeks ago. interior - Wolf 3d V4 plugin ecu with hand controller unit, Apexi AVCR boost controller, HKS type-1 turbo timer/function meter with plug-in wiring harness, Autometer Pro-Comp liquid filled 20psi boost gauge, Momo black/grey steering wheel, Sparco racing pedals. Pirahna car alarm with 2 remotes. The engine machining was done by Crankshaft Rebuilders in Melbourne, have a friend who works there, and assisted me to slowly and carefully build the engine. The tuning was done by Melbourne Performance Centre, and was tuned to 242kw at all four wheels on 23psi on a safe tune suitable for daily driving (requires premium unleaded be used). I've only used Motul engine oil since the rebuild and it's always been the daily driver until recently where it's been sitting fairly idle, so enjoyed but never thrashed. All fluids have been changed and maintained per maintenance schedules. the bad bits - the paintwork is in good shape, not outstanding, but with a polish it looks pretty good. No patches missing or anything. There's a dent about 10cmX10cm in both the rear quarter panels as a result of my sometimes poor reversing skills. Inside the interior is just ordinary, not bad but just fairly ok. No holes in seats or bits missing, but the front floor carpets have some wear and some holes around the pedals on the drivers side. The stereo is pretty rubbish, just the standard one from Japan that doesn't pick up Aus stations. Never been too concerned about stereos so I've never changed it. There's also no aircon, all the piping and condensor etc has been removed to fit in the front mount cooler without chopping up the bumper bar. The car currently has just over 150,000k's on the clock, had 80,000 when i bought it and I've had it for about 7 years now. I've always garaged it and looked after it, and it's definitely a reluctant sale as I've put alot of $$$ and time and effort into it, but unfortunately I've got no room for it anymore. I'm after $10,000 for it. If there's anything I haven't covered, feel free to ask. Car is located in inner city northside Brisbane, registered until mide next year and will be supplied with RWC.

selling the stock wheels that came on the car, series 2 R33. Rims are in VGC, no marks or damage. Tyres are Federal somethings, will have a look tomorrow and post model/photos, but they have TONS of tread, i would say about 90%. Full set of four, all in similar cond. Located in Wilston area, just north of CBD Brisbane. Looking for $200 the lot ONO

selling the stock wheels that came on the car, series 2 R33. Rims are in VGC, no marks or damage. Tyres are Federal somethings, will have a look tomorrow and post model/photos, but they have TONS of tread, i would say about 90%. Full set of four, all in similar cond. Located in Wilston area, just north of CBD Brisbane. Looking for $200 the lot ONO.

looking for an R34 side mount intercooler, preferably located in brisbane area. Let me know if you have one to sell...

will give you $100 plus postage cost for the smic if you want a quick sale?

Problem is solved now, thanks for the help guys.

have an R33 stock exhaust/mufflers here, from dump to rear muffler, all ok no damage, free for pickup if anyone wants it? in wilston area

that's excellent, thanks, i'll give them a call today

superb fit thanks

sorry forgot to mention, I'm in brisbane, wilston area

hi all, have just picked up a series 2 r33 and have been giving it the once over. Noted the exhaust manifold nuts were all very loose, so was giving them a tighten and the firewall end one snapped clean through....wasn't even really putting any pressure on it at that stage, just a one-handed spanner tighten. Curse my huge muscles. Anway, will be swapping out the rest of them for new studs and bolts now, but does anyone have the name/number of a mobile borken bolt/stud removalist who can come remove the broken one? it seems to be broken off flush with the head, and the exhaust manifold is still on. Really hoping it can be done without having to pull anything more off. Does anyone have any suggestions on who to call?

hey silbastian, still a new member so can't reply to yr pm, but was meaning $100 plus the cost of whatever postage is....having posted stuff before, I imagine it would be around the $20 mark, but let me know the cost and we can go from there

$100 plus postage to brisbane for the r34 smic, hows that sound? Looking for one asap

are u interested in shipping the intercooler to brisbane, or pickup only? i'm chasing one...

i'd be interested in the r34 side mount intercooler, how much you after for that?

hi mate, you still have this for sale? interested in getting an exhaust asap, please pm me if still for sale

you have a 3 inch exhaust system in there by any chance? not overly fussed on the manufacturer as long as it's in good cond

hi mate, i am interested in it. Brand new member so I can't PM u, but if you want to send me a pm we can discuss the discussions. Can pick it up Sat if yr free then?