puckish

High octane fuels have a short self life. Heat and sunlight break them down very quickly. I was intrested in the Optomax sulphur readings. No wonder I got that funny smell when I used it ! I thought it was tolene or something. I did some support work at a refinery once and spoke to some guys there. One thing that interested me was fuel changes season to season. In Winter they ad stuff to stop water related probs and in summer anti evaporative stuff etc.

My friend just bought a used car yesterday and I went throught he warranty with her. Read it all. Basically hers only covered engine repairs upto $1000 ! It didn't cover BHG even if the cooling system failed on it's own accord or the head cracked due to manufacturing error !

I've seen the G35 (akaV35) state side. It's way nicer in the metal. So long as you don't get one of those crappy looking 350Z or Soarer TT lookalikes. BTW whats the V35 going for in Japan ATM ? Not that I can afford to buy just curious. :headspin:

It's school holidays isn't it ?

Press button and get out of car. Notice front spoiler lip is down. Press other button notice front spoiler lip is up. If nothing changes it's broken.

Yep you can hook up a TV to it. You need a Blaukpukt (sp?) kit for it. It only fits the coloured screen units though.

Gas Strut something or arather. Umm their reciept has the company name cut off but the address is; 1/ 53 Guthrie St Osborne Park 6017 They are REALLY good. Quality service and they rebuilt my struts rather than swap them out at request (if your willing to wait). Have used them three times now and will go back....

Hmmm maybe not the SS. Nothing against the SS but I have never been happy with the low end torque of the Gen3 in stock form. Have you thought about the utes. The SS ute is way cool as is the new Cross8. Or you could always go a 89 LS400 ????

Okay say your engine is under load and you pop the clutch. WAM the engine still thinks it's under load and revs it's box off. Clutch in, button pressed engine thinks it's in idle. Also used whilst shifting gears. Clever huh...

"Don't you forget about me" Simple Minds

Mate Try www.performanceforums.com There is a section dedicated to a group of guys who either have or are doing this ATM. ExVermiti. Good luck and let us know how you go. PS At least they won't have a another riceboy Honda on the cover

Dude. I think a lot of people will agree with me that Rice Boys tend to have. 1. Honda 2. Fake EVO 2. Hyundai 3. Anything else made in Korea/Former Soviet Eastern Bloc Nation. These cars usally 1. Try to look like a WRX/GT4/EVO 2. Don't go fast even though the owners think they do 3. Have an exhaust tip/neons tip or a 3" system on a 900cc Suzuki 4. a must have is the 5" monster Tach for max Riceness. So unless your trying to look fast and the furious ghey you'll be right.

Tesla coil. Same effect. Kills all gates etc in semi conductors.

Hmmmm Looking at these plugs the mixture looks okay. No clogging soot or leaning out light tan colour. Looks like the piston is hitting the electrode ? If you look at the higher boost racing plugs they have the electrode way deep in the body of the plug and ewither side gap or small gap. These seem not to ?

I don't like the 350Z. ( I am sounding like a broken record) but did see the V35 Coupe stateside and am mighty impressed. Interoir is delux.

Pffft try this one...

MattyB are these the codes you are referring to? If not drop me a line and I'll get the other stuff for ya. ____________________________________________________ ECU diagnostics Usually you have to remove the computer from the mounts in the footwell, as the LED(s) you need to see is pointing away from you. Switch on the ignition, but don't start. The LED on the ECU will be glowing. Turn the selector screw clockwise all the way (gently!) For two LED EDU's: the LED will flash once, pause, flash twice, pause... all the way up to five. This is the diagnostic mode. Mode 1 = one flash, mode 5 = five flashes. When you reach the right mode, turn the screw back counter-clockwise. Mode 3 is what most people use. For one LED ECU's: wait a couple of seconds, and turn the screw back counter-clockwise, the ECu is now in mode 2. Note - the engine check light on the dash will mirror the LED on the computer. The LED will flash out a code (or series of codes if there is more than one fault) More recent ECU's have two LED's (red = first digit, green = second digit, eg red 2x flash, green 1x flash = code 21) The ECU's on most R32's have one LED, long flash = first digit, short flash = second digit, eg long, long, short = code 21. Codes: 11 Crankshaft position sensor 12 MAF sensor circuit 13 Coolent temperature circuit 14 Vehicle speed sensor circuit 21 Ignition circuit 31 ECU (ouch!) 34 Knock sensor 43 Throttle position circuit 45 Injector leak 51 Ignition circuit 54 Auto signal to ECU 55 All OK There are some other codes, not verified for the auto. These are three digit codes, so I'm not sure how they would be flashed. Turn the ignition off to put the ECU back to normal. There is also a O2 sensor test in real time available - do the above to get the ECU into mode 2 (single LED ECU) or mode 1 (2 LED ECU's) Start the engine. Warm the engine, and then run under no load at 2000 rpm for the test. Single LEDs: on = lean, off = rich Dual LED's: green LED on = lean, green LED off = rich Go by the trend shown, eg mostly on = lean, mostly off = rich. The LED should be flashing between 5-10 times per 10 seconds under normal conditions. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Auto Transmission Diagnostics Enter the auto transmission diagnostics mode Have the car at normal temperature in Park with the overdrive on Start the engine _ the power light will go out after 2 seconds Turn the ignition off Move the selector to Drive (you may have to use the push button release) Overdrive off Wait 2 seconds, and turn the ignition on Wait 2 seconds and move the selector to 2 Overdrive on Move the selector to 1 Overdrive Off Press the accelerator fully and release -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Auto transmission diagnostics codes. All codes are flashed with the Power Light on the dashboard (R32) and on the auto mode selection button on the R33's. The sequence starts with one long flash. If everything is OK, this will be followed by ten short flashes. Errors are indicated by a long flash in the sequence of short flashes. 1st flash longer Revolution sensor shorted or disconnected 2nd flash longer Speed sensor shorted or disconnected 3rd flash longer Throttle sensor shorted or disconnected 4th flash longer Shift solenoid A shorted or disconnected 5th flash longer Shift solenoid B shorted or disconnected 6th flash longer Overrun clutch solenoid shorted or disconnected 7th flash longer Lockup solenoid shorted or disconnected 8th flash longer Fluid temperature sensor is disconnected or the control unit power source is damaged 9th flash longer Engine revolution sensor shorted or disconnected 10th flash longer Line pressure solenoid shorted or disconnected All flashes the same with no long start flash Battery voltage low, has been recently disconnected or control unit has just been reconnected --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Nope they can't do jack. They are trying to get you to confess by calling ya bluff. This can fall under harrassment but is very hard to prove. You should only answer each question driectly and politly. DO NOT give any addition information. Try to say less than more and get straight to the point.

Dude the only thing I have that would die is me credit card and me bank manager :-)

The Nismo pump is warranted by Nissan. Nuff said. Bosch.. don't start me....

Good to hear it all worked out.

Quote Yet roof racks, bumper bars, bull bars, badges and wheels/hub caps are ok? __________________________________________________ But officer my car ain't as loud as me neighbours Harleys. How come you never come round and bust all them ? They leave you alone after that..

Check there isn't glazing on the pully wheels and belts are all set correctly. Bosh belts tend to do this the worse.

Undo the clamps fully. Twist left and right whilst pulling... HARD. Put band aid on hand after hitting hand on edge of bonnet.

Hmmm Not sure what model you have but the last one I used had a factory fault that fired half the dash electrics. Lucky the shop was legit and swapped it out and helped pay for damages. Anyhow check the handbrake cable is connected correctly and that the dash light turns off when release. Some HKS I've seen also have this feature.