DR JOSH

Best part about that car is the motor.

You might want to bring in some massive wheels with that kit too.

Because I love my little fabrication projects.

Another toolmaker hey. Bet your glad to be out of your apprenticeship.

That info is correct yet incorrect at the same time. There was the RS= non turbo, RS-turbo (come badged just as an RS, like mine was) = turbo no intercooler, and RS-x= turbo intercooled. I have original DR30 brochures at home. That hatch has had a facelift, I know the bloke that bought his old DR shell. I believe it had a decent engine bay fire. My mates DR should be back on the road soon with a fresh motor after he popped it. It's running a GT30 with a few other goodies, it's bright green you wont miss it thats for sure.

Just a little corection there, both RS and RS-X are turbo model's. RS is non inter cooled and the RS-x has the small side mount inter cooler and runs higher compression and the turbo has a slightly smaller exhaust housing. Mine was originally an RS. Not quite original anymore. There are quite a few nice DR's in Adelaide just not any up for sale :PBJ: $11,000 is a very good price these days, the only people interested in them are the fanatics that are very thin on the ground lately. By any chance have you seen the old fella that drives the faded red RS-x with queensland plates around? I haven't seen him for about a year and a half, he pulled up along side my mate one day and gave him some respect. He was hell old with his misses in the passenger seat, what a champ. I own an SR sil also and it sucks driving the sil compared to the DR.

I'll try and get some pics up, but I wouldn't hold my breath. I haven't even seen my car for about 3 months, it's kinda sitting at my mates workshop waiting for some finishing touches which just never seem to come. Crossmember wasn't direct fit distance between chassis rails was about 5mm out so I elongated holes that way. and the spacing between the 2 holes on each side was about 15-10mm out if I remember correctly, so I used both original holes in the rails and 1 of the original holes on the crossmember. I then had to weld in a 6mm packer on the member and re-drill a new hole to line up with the rail. Of course this would make a whole heap more sense once you see what the crossmember looks like and try and test fit it, it's kinda hard to describe. Hope that helps at all.

My DR30 runs a cut and shut bluebird steering coloumn (the closets I could find that would still accept the r30 ignition barrell and was the right length), Z31 linkages from coloumn to rack, and a whole s13 crossmember, rack and control arms. S13 coil overs and r33 brakes to match. This increases the track by around 20mm if I remember correctly, I did it all a fair while ago. Theres a fair bit of mucking around getting the column, and crossmember mounted right but it's all pretty straight forward. And because of the change of crossmember it ment custom engine mounts. Do it if you are really keen but it does require a fair amount of nutting it out.

Close!! It's a 235 hehe. I'll be the first to say those wheels are just poser value. Look's good though hey. But for perfect track use my wheel of choice would be as ghostrider said a good old 16"x8", it's good to have a few sets of wheels to choose from.

You want the biggest? These aren't the biggest in diameter but 17"x9" front 17"x10" rear is decent size in my books.

And do you know what the first thing that popped to my head when I opened it (Ghostrider )

LMAO, thats the other skyline book she got me.

I'm a big fan of anything DR30, so when I opened up to this I was quite happy. Photo's are a bit fuzzy but ya get the idea. It's in absolute mint condition. Got another skyline book too but has no DR30 coverage.

Yes I'm tuned in.

YEAR: 1984 MODEL: DR30 BODY TYPE: coupe COLOUR: PURPLE

Auto barn?? thats where I got my stuff for the FJ and they did have a listing for the L series.

Crimmo (on these forums) from adelaide used to have an RB20 aus spec R30 which he did the conversion into, so he should be able to point you in the right direction. But I say DR30 = FJ20 end of story, they just go together so well. Old school tuff car with an old school tuff motor.

I'd dare say so as thats what they use to advertise them as.

Haha thats awesome, they sure did like jumping there skylines. I want one of those r30's now.

This pops up alot on yahoo when you search for DR30 bits and pieces, mainly odd body moulding and such. I just found a pages which describes them having machine guns and all. Now I just want to know what is the go with them are they from some old weird Jap Tv show or something?? Here There are a couple of pics right down the bottom of the page.

what are you doing Crimmo???? hurry up and make your mind up. And how much are you looking for??? I know how much you paid

Yup thats pretty much the setup I had in there before hand, but decided to go s13 for the power steering as it's gonna see a fair bit of driving to and from work and could be a little heavy on the steering for day to day use Maybe I'm just weak though

Nah crossmember doesn't quite bolt in but is pretty easy to make "bolt in". Yeah I had no problems at all really with the box just the fact that I know it could be a whole lot better made me do this conversion.

Paint work is pretty crappy but it's good enough for me cause I'm a fair bogan. And it's alot more purple than what it seems in this photo too. LOL In every pic I have the color looks very very similar to the pic of the 2 door above DEVOSTATED, I have had this color picked out ever since I have owned this DR Ohhhh well shit happens as long as that car ain't in adelaide it's all good LMFAO

Figured I'd throw up some photo's to show the setup is in there and I'm not just talking out my ass like alot of people tend to do these days (not that you can see much). That and I'm in love with my motor