WAGON_BOY

Had a awesome day, big thanks to all the organisers and people that help out, i'd definately be back again!!! to much understeer so i think im gonna have to get a highflow before i come back again to make it a bit more interesting did anyone get pic's of my stalley ? LOL

spotted a few stagea's at texi today but only Ryan and myself put in the effort and got out there amongst it!!!

mine were locked in good i couldn't whack it out............ but i had a puller anyways so might aswell use it

ok doing it that way u get access to the 4 bolts holding the hub/bearing doesnt that need to be pressed out or could've i just whacked it out with the mallet?

So Guys its really not that hard at all just involves a bit of time depending how seized stuff is but basically anyone can do it if they have the tools then all you have to do is get the old and new bearings pressed in and away you go. also a side not when your putting back in the steering arm you might need to apply a bit of presher with a jack from underneath as to stop it from spinning when u go to tighten up the nut. so anyways i hope this helps everyone out.

OK the tools u will need are either spanners or sockets in sizes: 12mm 14mm 17mm 19mm 22mm and 32mm I suggest a big breaker bar or if you have it a rattle gun. Also you will need a ball joint puller (well really its a pusher LOL). Some long nosed pliers to take out the split pins and a rubber mallet. Step 1: jack the car up and pull the wheels off. Step 2: you will need to turn the wheels to gain access to the bolts from the callipers which are 22mm, then proceed to take the calliper off (also you might want to undo the 12mm bolt holding the brake line on the strut for more length) and then u'll have to get that rubber mallet out and bash off the disc. Step 3: take off the steering rack limiter (2x 14mm bolts) on the strut to gain access to the ball joint as to get a puller in there to pop out the steering arm. (you will need the puller as its bloody tight even trying to prop it up and then smash the crap out of it with a rubber mallet didnt work ** note when tapping all the studs out keep the nuts on there so u dont damage the threads) Step 4: carefully remove the sensor from the strut it is also glued in there so be careful not to damage it whilst prying it off, then hang it up out of the way not to get damaged. Step 5: undo the remainder of the bolts there will be 2x 19mm on the bottom and the 17mm on the top by the A arm, once they are all knocked out and loose also undo the 32mm bolt holding the hub on the axel. then give it a tap with the hammer to get it loose but dont knock it in more than 25mm / an inch. once its all loose you might want a hand to carefully pull the entire arm/strut out of there taking particular care with the axel and the part the sensor reads because u dont want to damage that!!! then once its out u can either push the bearings out yourself but i prefur to take it to a pro and get that done by them as they have the proper tools.

I didn't find a DIY on here for front wheel bearings so i thought i would post a guide as to how to do it. the replacement part is number 8 in this diagram and can be purchaced through http://justjap.com/ for about $240 each. Part number is 40210-AL800. and thanks to Jetwreck for the diagram. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=304447 details will be up next and the tools required for the job.

currently replacing front wheels bearings, now thats a fun job!!!!!!!!! NOT

Just PM'd you entry form for my mate Michael and his RX7 and payment will clear tomorrow thanks Dave!!!!!

NRMA...........

thanks to Dale's effort in getting me the swaybars etc i've now got them in but im going to have to spend some time tweaking it, although its nice and firm ive had to back the shock's down and now i think im goin to have bigger prolblems with bottoming out in dips etc. ahwell thats the fun part i guess trying to find the settings to make it handle nice allround.

just spotted a red C34 S2 with chromies on the northern rd, both gave each other a wave

yeah they bought that not more than a month ago, still havent caught them to say hello

peanut butter also helps

i got stranded today the damn battery in the key/remote went flat............ unlocked the car with the key and the alarm went off and then tryed to start it but the alarm wouldnt stop so couldn't go anywhere untill i got a new battery in the remote. very convenient when i was at the dog park, luckily a mate lived close by and we ran up to the shops and got a new one. so for anyone needing a battery the part number is CR3020.

just a suggestion i had a strange whinning noise that i thought was the turbo lacking oil on startup would last a little while and then go away. it was like a nasty queeling noise and eventually i traced it down to the belts on the front of the motor needed some dry lube, WD40 done jack sh*t but helped me find it as its not easy to get ur hand past the clutch fan to lube it up. dont know if this helps but anythings worth a shot!!!

im from around the Penrith area and work out at Hawkesbury UNI and the RAAF amoungst other places

so who else is entering the Texi on the 15th July???

is there a part number or another car with the same fuel filter ?

actually im talking about my first name its not Theo its pronounced Tay-o...............ya know like Taio Cruise LOL

try having a Dutch name and everyone who reads it pronounces it the English way, had it all my life where it gets to the point of not being bothered to explain it

hhmm what are the akebono disc's worth i still have to do mine!!!

damn i must of missed seeing that.........

ROFLMAO

done an oil and filter change today the part that sucked was having to jack the entire car up and put in on bricks just to get under the thing LOL