Steve

And nothing will attract the attention of mr plod quicker.

Cant wait for Datalogit for GTSt. Anyone know what is taking them so long?

water connections are usually pretty easy to souce, somewhere like enzed, or pritec? (i think). Without knowing what trim the wheel is, might be a bit hard to guesstamate. What did they tell you it was capable of when you bought it? Did they tell you it is a straight fit?

AFM will be dependant on how much air flow, ie, how much power you are making - no point forking out dollars if you havent had the car on a dyno. Lots of other things to consider, like fuel system, clutch, ECU, gearbox (perhaps) etc - more important than doing an AFM straight up. What other mods do you have already?

Have you cleaned your AFM? Cost you $10 in brake cleaner. May be the problem, but may not:) edit, and do your plugs as well, that never hurts and only cost about $20 for plugs - lovely way to spend a lazy sunday arvo.

ID checked only? You got lucky. A guy at work just transferred the rego on his Landrover Discovery, late nineties model. they tried to tell him that the stock spare wheel was obstructing the tail light. He protested loudly that it is stock, and that there is no where else for the wheel to be fitted, so how was he supposed to carry a spare? He then consulted with a collegue and only then gave it the green light. That was at Regency.

hippy, mine are 30mm below stock, which seems ok. I have read in a zoom article if you go much beyond this you need to get adjustable camber bushes, so add a couple hundy extra for the kits, then about the same for fitting - otherwise your tyres will not like you.

If you know what trim it is, these might help: http://www.turbofast.com.au/FlowT3.html

Why change the rego? Ring up Vicroads, and get them to send the rego to your SA address. I had a vic registered car in sydney for one year, moved to WA and then had it there for 2 years. Never had a problem. Of course, this is legal isnt it??? Because after all, you may move back to vic really soon.

ROFL:bahaha:

If you have any doubts, clean them. Why do you think it needs doing? Down side of having dirty injectors, the big one is going lean and detonation = possible rebuild. I think it cost about 25 here in adelaide, orings cost about $3-5.

Doesnt it have improved VVT as well, ie greater range? Just about any turbo motor will improve from stock if you stick to the age old formula, ie, exhaust, intake filter, management, boost. After that it goes on, cams, cam gears, porting, bigger turbo etc - usual stuff. This is of course not taking into account weaknesses in any support systems (fuel system, clutch, etc) HPI have run a series of articles on an R34 GTt (RB25DET Neo), and have extracted much better power using exactly this process. At last count I think it was putting down approx 230-240 odd rwkw with a highflow, and now they are doing injectors, turbo, manifold, head gasket, mild port - aiming for around 300 ish. I am not aware of any major differences between the R33 and R34 engine at the basic block/head design level

Did some reading on twin turbo setups. Where twins will help, if run in parrallel, not talking about sequential, is if you are aiming for xxx amount of flow (power), rather than fitting one large turbo, two smaller ones with a combined flowequal to the flow of the larger one will spool up quicker - that is if the turbine wheels are half the size etc. Its not exact in the real world, because of so many other variables, anyway starting to digress.... This has to do with the energy required to move the wheel varying exponentially, rather than linearly, as the radius increases - so two smaller wheels (turbine) require less energy to spin at the same speed as one larger wheel. So, where the advantage will lie, is if you were wanting to fit, for exampe, one 500 hp turbo, two 250hp turbos of half the size exactly, will come on boost quicker than the one bigger turbo. Perhaps it would be worth seeing if you cannot find a couple of smaller turbos to fit?, second hand GTR ones or even smaller if possible? This would give you boost alot quicker. Remeber that while the rb20 turbo isnt huge, it is designed for a 2L engine, so if you put 2 of them on, you probably have a car that would be good for the drags, not so much of a streeter. For wastegate, perhaps it would be possible to run one wastegate on the crossover pipe between the manifolds? but probably alot better to just use the stadard wastegate on the turbos - these could be controlled by one boost controller, with the line t-ed no probs. As rev suggested, exhaust cam, also a good manifold design, decent dump pipes, good exhaust, 'high' flow cat etc will all make boost earlier.

I have only been pulled over in my youth, now that I am an old bugger, it never happens. My car is lowered about 30mm, and the exhaust tip isnt small. I have a modified Trust front bar and veilside skirts. Mates mother gets pulled over driving a 180sx, copper upon realising she was a mature lady, didnt even check anything, just let her on her way. I think on the road it is definately a youth/attitude thing - but that doesnt make it right. And I still rekon it aint right to defect people (or more accurately demand a vehicle be submitted for inspeciton) via mail. As hippy said, the cops are there to enforce the law, if no law has been broken, some poor guy just bimbeling along doing nothing in particular - and there are heaps here that have done nothing in particular to get pulled over, except drive a nice car - why in gods name to they get hasseled and perhaps defected because the copper thinks something 'may' not comply - time for accountability, if something isnt illegal there should be room for recourse!!!! Perhaps more time should be spent noticing shit boxes, less time drooling over the imports they wish they could own, but never have - then defecting on the off chance. I would like to know how much is jealousy? Who wouldnt like to own a really nice looking car, that handles well, goes well and looks great? Sux big ones. What is wrong with the world, should be getting bonus demerits for decorating what would otherwise be bland and boring streets...ok went a bit overboard with the last one hehehe

Joel, I would have thought that CR wouldnt really affect peak power on a turbocharged engine, as power is a function of torque and rpm, the main deciding factor would be air flow (or boost, or air and fuel, as this provides the force, once burnt) at a given rpm? Or am I completely missing the point yet again?

Capacitive Discharge Ingition, gives a bigger spark by use of a repeated discharge from a capacitor.

Angelo at SAS paint and panel, 8268 8379. South terrace wingfield. Nice guy and does good work. another options anyways

Very interesting to see the difference from R33 to R34. Any ideas why there is so little overlap on the R33 timing? Is this for emissions control, which would not be of as much concern with the R34 due to its extra VVT range? ie retarding at idle/low rpm? Really appreciate all the info warpspeed, thanks heaps:)

Thanks Enrico, give us a yell when you are finnished, I am sure I'll find something interesting in it:) riggaP: 21st Century Performance, buggered if I can remeber the author, but someone else here might know his name with luck?

Hmm, well I will just have to ask for a pay rise. Us poor underpayed submariners - about time we got our due dammit!

Thanks Enrico, very kind offer. I have a copy of supercharged by the same guy, good read. I was going to buy maximum boost too, but decided it was a bit much ($100) when a large majority of the info is covered in supercharged. Another good one (borrowed off a mate for a while) is 21st century performance - covers some good stuff. Might have to buy a copy of that too one day

Thanks again warpspeed, certainly plenty to think about there. Do you by chance know what the standard duration and overlap is for RB25? Thanks again Steve

thems some purdy pistons, seems a shame to hide them in an engine:) - what is the retail over here on them? Cheers Steve

Evan, I have only been in a RB20 with 2530, not 2835, so I wont comment on the latter. the car in quesion put down about 230rwkw at 1.2 bar, came on boost quicly and pulled hard through to red line of 8200rpm. these turbos apparently hit peak efficiency at 1.5-1.7bar, so there would be a bit left. It was a drift car, so boost came on pretty hard. With regard to fitting, the 2530 can come in a t3 form that will bolt straight up to a stock manifold (as it was on the above), so adaptor plate shouldnt be necessary. $250 seems pretty cheap for a dump. $220 for braided lines is pretty good to. BTW, I have seen a 2530 second hand recoed, with polised comp housing and braided lines, wastegate, t3 flange for under 2k - which is cheaper than a high flow, and therefore IMO are pretty bloody good value for money.

Some great replies there, thanks heaps. Hope nobody minds but it raises a some more questions.... with regard to wastegate size; Is there any formula for working out flow for given valve diameter, travel, pressure? Not when connected to a manifold, but in a sterile world, similar to the testing of turbos? Do manufacturers actually detail wastegate movement range and flow, rather than just valve dimensions? Or is there a general rule of thumb used? with regards to turbine size/dimensions; is there a way to determine what sort of response a turbine wheel/AR combo will give at a specific gas flow? Or do we just match the compressor, fit the turbo (utilising the mid sized housing as a start point) and then experiment with different size housing until a desired result is achieved? with regard to cams; how do we determine the amount of overlap per psi back pressure that is acceptable before performance is reduced, and how do we determine how much more duration would be appropriate for the exhaust than the inlet? Sorry if these are a bit on the vague side again, just seems that this side of things seems to be very overlooked when putting a package together. Really appreciate the time taken for the replies so far, please keep em coming if you will cheers Steve