Steve

I definately wont be doing that with my little baby - will leave the 'limits' work to your new engine.

Rev210, another UK thread: http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/showthre...ead.php?t=36352 spose it just depends on who you ask over there

Saw one making [email protected] on RB25, 285 at 1.4bar. 250rwkw is just a basic setup without even cams.

Thanks for your help Paul, makes the choice easy, Xspeed are 10mins away from where I live actually probably 15 now that they have moved.

It could be your AAC - that is your idle control solenoid at the back of the plenum. It has a brown plug hanging off it. Check the plug is properly in place, try removing the plug and cleaning the electrical contact with brake cleaner or electrical contact cleaner. Next step is to remove it and give it a good clean. Three bolts, pretty easy. You will also need to disconnect the purple plug to do this, its the AC idle solenoid. Once removed, give it a bath in brake cleaner. Another thing to try is keep your ac switched on, as this uses an additional solenoid to bleed extra air into the plenum - may keep you out of trouble for the while. If it helps you will need to keep the aircon turned down to coldest setting so it is on most of the time (climate control will cycle on/off to maintain the set temp). Another thing that is vital is to check ALL your vacuum hoses, intercooler pipes etc as well. Most skylines are old and the hoses tend to perish and crack. Hope it helps. Sorry but I am somewhat taking stabs in the dark. Most fault finding is a process of elimination. G/L

DRIFTT, is this where you imported your cars from? tdawg, where did you import yours through?

Paul, does this mean Xspeed have the excel software or data logit? ditto for Hyperdrive, if anybody knows? cheers

The GTSS makes a little more down low, but that is with larger capacity and cams, so with stock engine, the T517Z has it on them hands down. Both curves arent too bad at all. Both setups would rip. Over 400rwkw

Stock engine: 2.7L with cams: Both the above are from the manufacturers own published figures.

Million dollar question, which tuners in Perth actually like or recommend Power FC?????

BTW, here is a link to the HKS website for GT turbos, with a graph for this turbo at 1 bar on RB25. http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/turbo/...c_gt/ac_gt.html

R32 GTS, where do you get your info for reliability on bb and non bb turbos? completely flys in the face of very well respected, and very experienced mechanics I have spoken to, including one that was responsible for australias quickest GTR. you may have seen it if you were at drag combat???

NVCS is the system nissan use that advances timing on the intake between 1050 and 4500rpm. If the revs at idle get near 1050, and the car is in gear, the NVCS will activate, advancing the timing and the revs will go up. To test if this is the problem, just unplug the NVCS and put the car in gear. The NVCS plug is front drivers side of the head and has a brown plug. Or, you could just get someone else to put it in gear while you listed with the hood up - there will be an audible click noise when the NVCS activates. For only a cat back it shouldnt cause dramas. 1/8 of a tank shouldnt cause dramas either with stock fuel pump.

What mods do you have? the revs picking up at idle sound like they may be the NVCS kicking in. If your idle isnt stable, it 'may' activate it once the neutral switch has been deactivated. Second problem could have been fuel surging due to not enough in the tank. More info would be good, mods, settings etc.

Dude - these are a farkin awesome turbo, good bottom end mid and a top end well above 250rwkw. You must be spewin.

For management, have a look at the Greddy E-manage, basic form does AFM intercept, same as SAFC, but for a little more you can get full ignition and injector control = full management. 205 is good, shows all is as it should be especially with 7 AFRs? this does seem a bit high, has it had the fuel pump done? should probably be getting more than 7psi boost too. Front/dump and cat are good ideas for next upgrade. Oh, and if you are looking for 250rwkw, there is a guy selling a complete upgrade for $4k changeover with stock parts - FMIC, HKS turbo, injectors, fuel pump etc. Check the for sale, it would be an excellent cost effective way to make the car sing

The weight analagy was for weight/power comparison.

Well, we need to get something straight, HKS make GT2530, garrett dont - places like Horsepower in a box seem to be jumping on the HKS bandwagon by naming their turbos the same. A garret 25-30 is not do the same as a HKS 2530 - PERIOD. The combination of wheels and turbine/compressor housings is ONLY sold by HKS. they started naming them, then others do the same or tell you they can do the same - its just not possible unless they buy the parts from HKS and put them together, which is more expensive than just buying it complete from HKS.

Do you think it would weigh more than a ford XR6, or a GTS commodore? I doubt it, but its pumping out a shit load more. True no one knows how quick, but still, slower than 12 second 1/4? I find it hard to beleive.

where is a smiley with tears when you need one

jeez, thats worse than waiting for new parts to come in - I WANT IT NOW any idea how long? or are you going to be a tease?

stock gtr is quick, but not THAT quick. If you didnt want to loose money on a car, you would have to buy the cheapest POS you could find. It is difficult to sell a unique car though, but that is part of owning one - if that is what you want. good with the bad.

Thanks again SK, could you possibly post up some of the dissadvantages to lowering a car? Also, why do they lower touring cars, F1, etc as much as they can before it starts scrubbing? Hypothetically, if you can remove all the associated downsides of lowering a car, wouldnt it then be an advantage to have it lower???? agk, cheers, makes sense. I think you can use panhard rods to lower roll centre on live axle, not a huge difference from the research I have done though. To insert an image, you must host it on a site first.

Anybody know where to start????

:Oops: sorry. Sorry, but now I am confused, the second quote was a response to my asking why my front is loose and tends to hop. So to clarify, does this mean that too big a roll couple on the rear has the same effect as too small a roll couple on the front - or if a roll couple is too big or too small it has a similar effect? Cheers I am trying to get the car as low as possible (for lower CG) but I dont want to sacrifice handling - hopefully I can find a work around if my car is 'too low'. Might have to investigate these jap roll centre adjustors. R&D can be costly...