Steve

would you add a few hundred rwkw if you wanted to go slow Drag, bah, so passe, I like it sideways baby yeah! besides, I dont think my 7kg rear springs would help much in that department, or my 235 tyres on 10" rims.

Try contacting someone like imports 101, they got a website somewhere

Only a gts-t???? its the ony gts-t, its completely unique, not another one anything like it in aus. So gotta ask yourself, would you sooner have another R34 GTR (very tasty), or A one of a kind skyline that puts down enough power to stop all over that GTR? All hypothetical really isnt it, depends on what you like. Cheapest way to mod a car though, buy one that is already done its rarely though that you see one that has been modded this well, ie, no expense spared.

C yar, the 32 wastegate actuator has a stiffer spring, and will give a higher minimum boost pressure. An R32 with an exhaust makes 10psi (roughly) minimum boost pressure, vs 7-9 for R33. This means your boost will come on harder, and will hold boost better at higher pressures - due to the stiffer wastegate spring. It is a common upgrade when using a turbo and running higher than stock boost to do the wastegate at the same time, especially if you are having trouble holding boost. For example HKS make upgraded wastegate actuators, but they would cost alot more than a second hand R32 actuator, which would be fine for your applications. Its no different to changing the spring in an external gate (which I had to do) if you cannot hold the boost you want. Optimum is considered by some to be the stiffest actuator you can get that will allow you to run your minimum boost

Thanks for the replies, couple more questions: What is the roll couple?? (edit:) how do you correct for bump steer? dampening and wheel alignment? suggestions? Also, for cornering the front seems to be looser than the rear, ie, it jumps around more - is this because I have more of a problem up front? Cheers again

cheers, definately going to check them out.

they dont compare, they are cheap generic turbos, not performance turbos. Good if you want a cheap upgrade, not so good if you want to realise the best from your car.

Thanks for that, I do think my car may be a bit low and was hoping to be able to check if it needs attention. I have looked at a couple of diagrams that describe how roll centre is determined - but climbing under my car, I dont know how I am going to take the measurements as described Any ideas? Also, is there a recomended bias between front and rear roll centre? My S13 is quite low, and does hop a little on hard corners, but not when sliding. The japs acutally make roll centre adjustable arms for the front, Nams and JIC are two that come to mind. They only seem to make them for the front on silvias. Thanks for your help

Cheers

I understand all the points you have made, and they do apply 'theoretically' on their own, but once applied to the context of the posts above, they start to fall apart... Where did you get that info from. I have spoken to a couple of prominant tuners in SA that both SWEAR the trust turbos are more reliable than BB. I have seen trust turbos that have had alot of abuse without any reliability problems. I have seen a BB turbos that have shown signs of wear (CHRA getting loose) after 10,000kms. This may be true if you were comparing two BB turbos or two bush bearing turbos one with and one without water cooling, but otherwise you just arent comparing apples and apples. The bush bearing is designed to run without water cooling, the BB is designed to run with. Agreed if you were to water cool a bush bearing it MAY last longer, but you cannot compare the life of the two without actually doing tests. The 'exact' same bearing design???? They arent the exact same bearing design. Yes BB design works well, but from what I have seen, bush bearings have come a long way. If you had the same spec turbo and used two different CHRAs, you may have a valid point - but at the end of the day, they arent the same spec. The GTSS works well, so does the T517 Very true, but you also need to take into account MANY other factors, such as the compressor efficiency, etc, etc, etc. But still, if a turbo is 'limited' in its ability to make boost (due to longevity reasons) why wouldnt you buy a turbo that has extra potential, ie, can be boosted higher without having to worry about the turbo needing to be rebuilt. If you had a choice of two turbos, both flowing the same amount a 1 bar whilst being 80% efficient. Both of the turbos will flow the same amount of power at 2 bar, with 75% efficiency, but one will last 5000kms, the other 20000kms - which would you choose. Of course the one that is capable of producing more power with minimal reliability issues when compare to one that WILL have reliability issues. Hmm, when you consider that you can now buy a performance turbo, that lasts well, and works very well for under 3k bolt on kit, all gaskets, adaptors, hoses, clamps, lines etc, I dont think they are bad at all. Especially when compared to what if available for a few dollars less in generic turbo form that just doesnt give anywhere near the same performance. After all the heart of a turbo charged car is the turbo - a good one will keep the smile on your face every time you drive the car. Once you take into account duty, gst, broker fees and shipping, importing a HKS GTSS turbo kit is more expensive than buying a trust T517Z kit that is being retailed in australia for under 5K. GT turbos are good, no denying it, you do need to keep the boost down if you want to get a long life from them, they are FAR more expensive to rebuild than bush bearing. As long as you buy a performance setup for the style of driving you want (street, drag, drift etc) you will be miles ahead of someone running a generic turbo. GTSS and T517Z are both excellent turbos, just dont rule out the T517Z because they have bush bearing instead of BB. They are bloody awesome turbos.

bankids, it has one - all R33s have one.

Perhaps we should lobby the govrnment to build a drift track and skid pan, or provide a place to go thrashing - just like legal street events. There seems to be lots of skate board tracks around, so it appears dollars can be found to build facilities when the demand arrises - if they want to that it? Can but dream, but it would be something positive in the fight against street hoons, just like the skate board track came about to keep kids off the street.

lol, you got me on the terrorists

Tyre placards, they depend on who complied the vehicle. A mate who owns a QLD reg gts has up to 9 inch wheels allowed, as that is what it got originally complied with.

Or you could go to the DOTARS website, and find out that the car must be no lower than 100mm when lowered, and must retain 2/3 of the suspensions travel. These regs, I think you will find, apply to ALL of australia, as well as local state rules. The local state rules are probably to ensure loop holes are closed, such as in the circumsance where a 4wd may have side walls that exceed 100mm, it prevents them from having anything lower, so if it gets a flat, that part of the vehicle wont drag on the ground. As for slacker than other states - in SA you arent even allowed to have a BOV fitted without a full emissions report (IM240) which can only be done at mitsubishi for a cost of over $3000

Well if you consider belching out millions of tonnes annually of pullution into the atmosphere 'environmentally friendly' what can I say??? One little ball refined uranium, that would fit in the palm of your hand will propel a 7000 ton submarine continuously for 15 years. How much fuel do you think a conventional submarine would use? Millions of tons of deisel. Now, this contamination in the atmosphere isnt being cleaned up, all you have to do with uranium waste is dig a hole and bury it - we got pleny of room to dig a hole or two..... we could even just shove it down the holes made by the crude oil that is being sucked out of the earth. Alot better than destroying the air that we breathe, and contaminating all life on this planet - no matter where they are, animal of vegetable? When they finally do make a car that runs on nuclear power, (argueably solar powered cars already do this - the sun is just a huge nuclear reactor), the smallest amount (probably smaller than a pea) will power it for the life of the vehicle - so highly efficient its almost inconceivable. The turbo will be redundant The logistics of it just dont balance up - IMHO, greenies have been scaring the shit out of people with alot of mis-informed propaganda. Small amount of waste that can be disposed of without harm to the environment v's millions of tonnes of waste constantly destroying the planet at an ever increasing rate?

Joel, I think you had 'cubes' envy, going from Rb20, then leaping to RB30

correct, obvious that a car has bolt ons if its making over 300rwkw. But it didnt have larger capacity engine (RB26 internals) or port work - just bolt ons. oh, and Joel, it made just shy of 260rwkw with a restrictive exhaust at 1 bar with a 0.63AR turbine housing, before the cams - that was with a 20 odd minute Martin Donnin tune, he just did a rough tune to keep it going until it was sorted (other mods added) Interestingly, it only made 270 odd at 1 bar with the cams, but the CR was lowered to 8.6 to 1

Hi all, just wondering if anybody could tell me what car clubs here in the west are cams affiliated? Would be even better if the club had a drift orientation Cheers

Its called globalisation. We should all convert to nuclear power - fark the oil (uranium is much more efficient, and environmentally friendly). Then australia would become one of the world leaders ! C'mon Johnny, lets get the yellow cake flowing....

your point is?????

looking forward to seeing the results

Could be the whole autosalon thing - at adelaide there was a T517Z on SR that made 297rwkw

was that is the same form of tune? about 95kw drive train loss Oh, and gotta say it, 331rwkw with stock RB25, ~20psi - gotta love HKS turbos

Hi all, Just wondering if anybody knows how to determine the roll centre of a car? Also what solutions are available if they need adjustment. Specifically for an S13, I am having trouble getting under the car to check the geometry with any great accuracy, any help would be appreciated cheers Steve