Steve

Well Tim, I think you do need a catback and to get 320;)

I just found some nice bolt holes in the head that took an M8 bolt - which I had a few laying around. Measured head to fire wall, bought some car amp power cable and some terminations, crimped the terminals to the cable (I used some heat shrink to neaten up the join), bolted in place. Very easy job.

Could anybody could send me a copy of the R33 manual? Just send me bank details and I can send money to cover costs - please pm me Cheers Steve

:aroused: :aroused: :aroused: :aroused: :aroused: how farking nice is that!

I used heavy duty stereo cable and a couple of terminations - fitted between the front RHS of the head and the fire wall, and rear LHS of the head and fire wall. Nice red ricey looking things - cost me only a few bux. Seemed smoother and stronger - seat of the pants. Minor really, but for the $10 it cost me, who cares:)

Top End performance in Holywood:) link from the HKS USA website dealer section. You have pm for the price.

Cams only

well over 300rwkw, over 6 months and around 10,000kms - stock internals and I havent had any probs. I even had a boost spike to 1.9bar in 3rd gear on a hot summer day, hit red line pretty quick. I was a bit worried, but that was about 5 months ago. I think it is important to decompress the stock RB25 if you are heading into this teritory - that's what the japs do, and what I did, good fuel supply and a good tune. JMS R33 used a similar setup for well over 300rwkw, and Danny isnt exactly renouned for his mechanical sypathy. If the engine is in good condition, you can push them pretty hard, but if it is tired, or been abused by a previous owner (who knows for sure?), you may run into trouble down the track. But generally, it is not an uncommon thing in Japan for RB25s to put out this sort of power on stock internals. If you have the engine out, it would be well worth upgrading to RB26 crank/rod/pistons. They are stronger and will drop the CR to 8.5:1 AFAIK, which is where mine is. An added benefit is an extra approx 100cc of capacity, not much, but it all helps:) Plenty of GTRs putting down 300rwkw with stock internals no probs - well, I havent heard of too many failures anyways - unless stupid things are being done (eg, thrashing a cold engine) If you want to do a full rebuild, why not just drop a 3L bottom end in. In NZ guys have run mid 400rwkw without problems, and you have all that 3L torque, hmmmm:)

Well speculation aside, I bought a serc oil cooler, take off plate, remote filter mount, thermostat, hydraulic dash fittings (not earls fancy ar5e ones, industrail ones) and used industrial internally braided hydraulic oil line. I had Clint32 make up the lines (fit the dash fittings, and cut the hydraulic line to size, use hoist) for a very reasonable price (around $50 from memory). I bought some aluminium strap to make a mounting bracket for the remote oil filter and oil cooler. Costs: Oil cooler: (serc 32 row) around $250 on special from GCG fittings and hydraulic hose: around $150 Thermostat: $75 from autobarn (earls ones are around $140) take off: around $50 remote mount: around $50 Clint32s fee (best labour charges in town:)): $50 It took a while, and ended up costing more than $600. If I had used earls dash fittings, braided line and billet take off/remote and thermostat, I would expect the price would have been alot closer to $1K. Labour if reconed in for making brakets would have been a couple of hours to figure how/where to fit them. Plus the strap, I had to buy 4m as they didnt sell in any smaller lengths and I couldnt find off cuts. So next time you think the jap kits are expensive, try pricing up every fitting, braided line, and oil cooler. IMHO, they represent pretty good value for money if you are after the full annodized fitting/billet/braided line deal.

viva garage sell hid kits, perhaps they have the bulbs? might be worth giving them a call

Sounds good, it might be worth seeing what you can pick up the HKS turbine housing for from US, it was around $100AUD cheaper than japan when I bought mine.

does this mean you only have a cat back?

It might matter if you are involved in an accident. Edit, when I did transfer rego of a car in WA, they did look up the details. Bl4cK32, cheers but if all plans go well, it looks like I will be going over to NSW to get my car legal pretty soon:)

PM sent

Have a look here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...light=power+map

The super dragger seems to hang about as low as other cat back systems I had fitted, but the rear muffler is pretty fat and sits a bit lower than the others. As for muffler type, I really think it comes back to design again. The design of the through pipe, what sort of material is being used and size/length would all have an impact. Bit of a black art to me - thats why I just went with swap a few until I found a good one. I even tried an N1 style that was louder than a straight 90mm pipe!

predator, I dont think any state requires a full emissions test for a FMIC and exhaust. Which is beside the point. Road rules are vehicle registration rules - all laid out in the same act. In SA its called the Road Traffic Act and covers everything from speed limits, to fines and vehicle standards. You are right, one state's rules are different, but any vehicle driven on a state's roads, must comply with that state's Road Traffic Act. Currently there is also a national agreement where if your car is defected in QLD, and it is registered in another state, you can have the defect cleared in the state it was defected or the state of registration. Duncan, I think the big problem is interpretation of ADRs. Some state's beaurocracies just dont like the idea of making interpretations that are in the favour of the vehicle owner, others do - like QLD. I would love to live in QLD:)

For any give setup, 3" will flow better than 2.5" - alot better. Is is worth it? well thats pretty objective, but IMHO, 3" wont hurt anything - 2.5 is smaller and therefore more likely to be restrictive. I have heard quiet 3" systems, and noisey 3" systems. The big problem is finding the balance. If you want quiet, it will always be at the sacrifice of power. Your choice, do you want power or comfort? How much noise can you handle? I went through several cat back systems until I found one that was the right balance of power and noise. Finally settled on a HKS super dragger, which is a nice balance for me. Without knowing what an exhaust flows like - how restrictive it is, how can you know what to do. Remeber that back pressure will kill response, spoolup and peak power as well as mid range and bottom end. Simple rule with turbo cars, the better it flows, the better it is:)

Injectors make a ticking noise.

Wrong, a defect can apply to any car from any state. If you bring a car into a state, the local road traffic act applies to that vehicle, its state law.

Will be interested to see the results - hope it goes well.

Its a bit sad that its necessary for this sort of thread to actually get Jordan to do the right thing - its a bit sad that now he apparently has done the right thing he wants his name cleared? How many months has he been holding the money? Fraud (taking money by deception) is a criminal offence that people go to gaol (jail for you gookboi:)) for. Just goes to show, SAU helps more people in more ways than it would appear - thanks Prank!

I think it was around $75/4litres at autobarn.

Snappy google search turned up this from this website: http://www.motorspot.com/300v.html this is also backed up on the Motul Canada website. http://www.motulcanada.ca/pdf/300V_15W50.pdf and from http://www.motul.com/300V/motul_300v.html it was given high praise by the subaru world rally team cheif engineer, plus others.

AFAIK, its what Nismo use. meshmesh, if it has a W rating, it has been tested to flow at 0degC. The W means its suitable for use in winter. The winter viscosity is tested differently than the weight. It is a little thicker than say Mobil 1, which is like water. The winter testing involves seeing how much oil will flow throught a specific sized hole at 0 deg. Basically how well the oil pours. The weight of the oil (50 in this case) is tested at 100deg celcius. The higher the number the thicker the oil at that temp. Ronin 09, I know what you mean, sort of a honey smell:)