Steve

Yep, that's Kym at Magill. The inside of the tyres arent holding up so well with only 2 deg camber - but the rest is good - excellent grip and great handling. Heaps of tread on the outside, so it looks ok:p Havent measured them exactly - but they sit wide on the 8" rim up front, wider than the rim slightly - lucky it has such a stiff sidewall. I might take to em with a tape measure tonight:)

Forged pistons have excellent heat dispertion qualities, which in your case especially, will assit in keeping detonation at bay. Having said that, the best way to prevent detonation is to get a good tune and drive sensibly. If you are only running 12-14psi, it could be debatable whether or not you 'need' forged pistons. The RB20 already has an 8.5:1 CR stock, if you are not increasing the CR with the rebuild, wont be running over 12-14lbs, have a good tune, good FMIC, good fuel supply and dont thrash the car after it has been sitting idling getting a heat soaked cooler (perhaps even fit a cooler spray?) - it should be fine. RB20s will easily handle the power you are aiming at, and do quite nicely even with a redline around 8000rpm. My personal choice would be spend the money on a decent head port and tune:) RB20s are pretty cheap nowadays - theres even a guy selling a rebuilt one for $800 in the FS section.

So you still have to go through regency for your stock BOV? damn that sucks - good luck

Scotsman, there is a place here in Adelaide that does RE55S 235/45/17 for around 350 each fitted, Not sure about 255/40/17. If I go to R rubber on the rear again, I will be going 235 in the RE55S, as they seem to be damn near the same width as the 255/40/17. They are wider than the RE540 in the same size anyways. if you like I can get his number and he can send some over. They told me they send them over pretty regularly.

fuel cut recovery rpm is set in the idle option. When you back off, the ecu cuts fuel, the fuel cut recovery rpm is where the idle will pick back up again. Mine is set for 1150 from idle and 1200 from idle with AC on. Idle is set to 900 and 950. I did find it recovers better after changing the O2 sensor. My O2 sensor was cactus when I changed it, and I had only 68,000ks on the clock which I believe are genuine:) Have you got someone to try part throttle and WOT with the engine off while you are looking at the throttle linkages? The only reason I ask is it sounds to me like it may be sticking - sometimes even a vacuum line in the way or a dirty/frayed accel cable can cause problems. Self learn will work even if you have it mapped - just leave it sitting for 10 minutes. But, if you havent changed your O2 sensor recently, I would definately recommend you do this first - only cost me $80 for an EL falcon one which is easy enough to adapt with a soldering iron. (interesting, the nissan stock sensor is bosch, the EL ford one I got was NGK????) Good luck, thats a nice clean looking engine bay there.

R31, sounds bizarre. When you lift off, the power fc cuts fuel, or it should. Have you checked what your fuel cut recovery rpm is set at? also, have you checked the throttle isnt sticking at WOT? I used to have my TPS voltage at 0.61V, as anything under 0.6 and it wouldnt idle properly. The AAC valve still did its thing, and the car idled ok, except if the voltage fluctuated enough to bring it to 0.59 where the throttle (AFAIK) indicates shut (between 0.4 and 0.6V) After finally finding the smallest vacuum leak - It now idles with the TPS voltage set to 0.48. I also had issues with my mesh, the rear was removed - I was told by a jap performance mechanic to replace the mesh, as air can revert off the compressor wheel. That worked well. I adjusted the AAC vavle a little different to JasonO. I just wound it open, until the revs started to raise, then screwed in until it started to struggle to breathe. From there I went to the mid way point. The final thing I did was replace my O2 sensor, now the idle is damn near perfect, decel is perfect - its all good. The only problem is (well this is hypothetical) the cold air duct is 4" and it has a funnel at the front behind a hole in the front bar. The slightest breeze into it registers on the AFM - when its really windy, the voltage seems to jump enough that it appears to throw the idle a bit. I will be relocating the CAI in the near future to test the theory. Oh, and letting the car sit at idle for 10 minutes is how the power fc learns its idle, that seemed to work nicely too:)

Have you had bad experiences? why dont you like them?

R31 POWER, do you still have the mesh on your AFM? both sides? Also, check your fuel cut recovery rpm, and you could try adding a couple of points to the fuel around idle.

There is a guy in the for sale section who has built an interface to display data through the consult port. He states there that it wont interface with power fc, might be worth dropping him a PM.

VERY nice clean car there Merli. Getting excited yet? the wait always kills me. Good luck, hope it all goes smoothly.

Yes, check the HKS website

ROFL, I had trouble driving on a clutch with alot more meat than that - you've done well. Love the pressure plate too:)

Clint, when I bought my HKS 0.87, it had a tag on it saying 12cm, so I am assuming here that 8cm is around the 0.63, and 10cm around 0.73 - seems about right to me.

Slam it on, see how it goes. If worse comes to worse, go and speak to D1 Garage - they can get any part available in Japan through Signal Auto - only took James a couple of weeks to get an 8cm housing in for his T518Z

Just fitted a ford EL O2 sensor - made by NGK, cost $80 from a petroject distributor. 2 white wires and one black wire, same as the OEM one. I could not get the solder to take to the wires from the Nissan (bosch) O2 sensor plug, so ended up removing the pins from the plug opening the clamp that holds the little green rubber things on the end of the wire cutting off the nissan wires soldering the ford wires to the nissan pins (with green rubber things back in place) refitting pins to plug Worked fine. I noticed straight up that the voltage during cold start idle was up and not just dropping straight off to 0V. Even after driving and warming up, the voltage only drops to 0.04 at the lowest, where as before it used to drop off to 0V all the time. Previously it would jump around all over the place alot quicker than it does now - so hopefully it is working ok. Idle is also alot smoother now - maybe because the ecu can actually see what is happening?

I hope you didnt have to pay for these to test them? thanks for putting up the results. Edit: You mention perhaps they weren't meant for big HP cars, but by the sound of the name, and the cost, of the second unit you tried, it wasnt designed for hyundai excels used by old ladies:)

Oh well, sorry Roy, if you havent seen it, I must be wrong - fair call, no more replies from me.

http://www.meggala.com/partcss.htm part no for 13B series 5 195500-1370

the Apexi ECV fits up just after the cat, and can be opened or closed as required. Other than that, I did fit a heap of quilting material bought from spotlight inside my boot behind the trim and under my rear seats, that toned things down a bit and weighs nothing. Only cost about $6/metre.

The design looks very similar to the trust manifold. Just a word of caution - manifolds aren't manifolds. I know a guy who changed his tubular manifold for one with pipes 2mm larger and the result was an increase in lag and drop in response. Only 2mm difference. This was on an SR20. Freebaggin fitted a tubular manifold recently (not sure what style/design), combined with a GT30 only to find no gain in power or response at all. Having said that, for $490 its pretty bloody cheap - and if nothing else, it will give the car a pretty tough note:)

I wonder what a Nur GTR would be worth if you put 800K into it? lucky to make 1/4 of your money back. Then there's the little porsche badge, and the exclusivity of owning one of the rarest cars on the road - hmm tough choice eh? Insurance might be a bit of a biatch though:)

no moving parts, not alot to go wrong. Power fc is plug and play, so just plug it in (less than 5 minute job) and see if it works - simple.

I will keep my eyes open too. tripped and hit the wall - 3 teeth and a broken nose, sounds like he was running and removed the wall with his face - thats one hard hit. Poor bugger

67m, but it took me a few goes, bloody drunken bums - thanks Andrew:p

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...read.php?t=5715 try the search function, it works