Steve

Problem sorted, the boost controller works well and is really easy to set up. 4 Door, have you checked the switch settings on the back of the controller, as greddy show a setting to use if 'overboosting' - perhaps this is how yours is set, which would explain why it takes longer to come on boost. good in theory anyways:)

I know this is a trend, but I definately found the old system much easier to use. the thing I dont particularly like about the new system is that items are arranged by the number of views??? or am I just imagineing it? I liked that with the old system, to keep up with what was new, you just had to check back regularly. Am I missing something - if this could be addressed (ie, easier to find the latest offerings) I would like the new system alot better. If I am missing something, an easy way to view new items, please let me know. Either that, or would it be possible to be able to search for new items, perhaps by date, so time isnt spent sifting through things that have already been viewed. Once again, if this is already possible, please disregard and sorry for wasting your time. cheers

Hmm, well I think I may have discovered what the problem was - the dip switches on the back of the controller were set to external gate:) I hope it solves my problem - havent tested it yet. 4door, what do you have the switches set to on your car?

I have a profec b that just wont control boost, ie, it just keeps climbing. You can borrow my solenoid to try on your car if you like, actually it may be worth doing a swap to see what happens. do you live north or south?

Roy, I had a look at that page, and it doesnt seem to say what the max safe temp is? or am I missing something. I am running Mobil 1 5W50 - the oil temps seem to get up to 90-95deg C with minimal thrashing, then I back off as I get scared of the temps:) It is a new car, sil80. I have almost completed the build up. FMIC, coilovers, full exhaust, kazama 350 turbo, trust ebc, 3 puck clutch, toda fly wheel, R32 calipers up front with endless pads, Uras pads rear, 2 way diff, castor rods, 2 core radiator, strut braces, fuel pump, injectors, z32 afm, power fc, mission mount, steer spacer, rack ends, modified shifter, bride brix seats, nardi steering wheel, trust heavy weighted shift knob, a few guages and some other bits. About the only things I havent done is rear camber and toe arms and an oil cooler:D edit: and I wouldnt mind some upgraded swaybars. so far the oil temps are only around 10-15 deg above water temps Thanks again for your help guys.

Thanks for the replies, 120C seems a bit high? is it quite safe? I dont have an oil cooler on my new car yet, but have oil temp - I am a bit paranoid about cooking the oil:)

Hi, Just wondering if anybody could tell me what the max safe oil temp is for an engine? And please no guessing;) Cheers Steve

Just noticed your friend is getting complied here? not too sure about initial compliance, but was under the impressioni it has to be in stock form completely.

Half cage is legal, but it must have the rear seats removed as well as seatbelts. It can only be registered as a two seater - oh, and the cage should be 100mm back from the front seats in the rear most position. aftermarket sus is OK, but they may ask you to weld it up if its coil overs. Also, you must be at stock ride height, no lowering allowed (the roads are too shit and they dont want them damaged - I think they want to pass a law making only 4WDs registerable here so they dont have to do any roadworks at all:)) You have to do a number check to transfer the papers, and they could check anything and everything, but are only 'required' to check engine number afaik. they only like aussie cars in this state, so tell your friend to be prepared to be farked up the arse. and have a nice day:)

ROFL @ Boof and T-man:) Boof, sorry for the misunderstanding - I see what you are saying.

R31 GTS, I will try and give you a straight answer for T-mans sake:) dont bother with an R31 - parts are VERY hard to find, and if you do they will be VERY expensive. Not much available in the jap aftermarket for R31 and drift. If you saw the R31 that was in Sydney, well it didnt seem too well set up to me - and it 'apparently' cost a fortune. I toyed with the idea of an R31 setup for drift, if nothing else, purely for the lack of attention it would receive from the cops - but gave up on it pretty quickly. Buy a silvia, cefiro, AE86, R32 etc - much better platform to start with, will be much cheaper in the long run, and much more enjoyable.

tang0, if you can buy a new 2530 kit for 2300, buy it - its bloody cheap. Have a look on a site like greenline, then add shipping, duty, gst and broker fee. Hell, standard garret turbos sell for 2300+. As an aside, if you have a problem with the price, why not take it to pm - your post is a little outside the guidelines for this section. Give the guy a break, its his turbo, and if wants to sell it for $10,000 its his perogative.

You obviously come into touch with the wrong people - people who themselves have probably never even tried drift. EVERYBODY starts at the beginning, I mix with some people that do drift regularly, the only time they get pissed off is with wanabes who talk the talk, but dont walk the walk. anybody who truely loves the sport would only encourage others to give it a go. Hell, I cant drift for sh1t, but it didnt stop me thrashing my car at mallala while Bai (signals D1 driver) looked on. Did he look down his nose? Not bloody likely - did he laugh when I stoved my car into a concrete barrier - sure did, as did I, but I am sure he has totalled many a car in his time too. Drift is here to stay, getting bigger all the time. Everybody should at least have a go at it before they start knocking it. Its just about as much fun as you can have with your clothes on. the new rice? jeez that sounds awfully remaniscant of "only milk comes in 2 litres" its a valid sport, and draws bigger crowds at Malalla than V8 tourers.

JasonO, good to here, hurry up:) B-man, yeah it was a bit painful, but there was no way I was going to sell it to someone at a fraction of the worth - and I got more money this way. the worst part was it was setup just nice, handled really well and was an absolute pleasure to drive, peak hour or on open roads. I miss it already:( dont think I will ever own a better car.

Hmm, well it was the 3037S 56T, yes it was GT25 flange. Doubt it would be breathless - with a 3L bottom end, you could easily achieve 350rwkw (veilside has had 700rwkw with two 3037s on a 2.7L rb26). Combined with the 3L torque, it would be quite formidable as a street package. Hell, I had 321rwkw, not in shoot out mode on a 31deg C day with dyno dynamics dyno. I had to spend alot of money to get traction, and even then managed to light up the rears at 100kph without any problems at all. If you want early power, use the 0.87 housing, if you want a bit more sanity, larger would be better:) I wouldnt recommend garret, I have seen a few GT30s (garret) that start boosting hard around the same place mine did, but with a 0.63 housing - compared to my 0.87. HKS turbos come in early, and dont really run out of breath from what I have seen - as long as you dont run the boost out of the efficiency range. If you think that some local company can produce a turbo that does as well as a HKS - good luck. Here comes the old 'garret is as good as HKS' debate, but imo, you are fooling yourself if you think so. dont scrimp on a turbo, it is the heart of a turbocharged car.

Hi Jason, stocking the car out to sell:( (long story) so it has a vg30 turbs now. How is your build up going? got any news? cant wait to see the results.

Fair bit of extra piping, WTF???? dude, it could be 300 metres long and it would make stuff all difference, if you look at the stock plumb back pipe its actuall about the same lenght as mine, and FYI, it IS a plumback BOV. Knore, no probs, stock internals are fine (decompress the engine thought), daily driver that gets regular doses of WOT. Car did around 10,000kms on that turbo ( a bit under actually). Boost, efficiency is around 0.8 to 1.2, thats where they really seem to do amazing things. 3037, depending on where you buy them, between 4-6K new

Your so right, who gives a rats arse if its fair or not, just do as you are told, good boy - appathetic attitudes really piss me off - maybe you should become a cop, you seem to think that they are right regardless. Fact - the SA POL DO NOT ENFORCE THE LAW, WITH REGARDS TO THE ROAD TRAFFIC ACT CORRECTLY, Fact - TPT SA DO NOT ENFORCE VEHICLE STANDARDS CORRECTLY. I have had enough of these forums Take care all.

so do you know what the australian standards are for, say, ride height? why is it that every other state follows federal law, SA its own law - cos they are all C#NTS I have a friend in WA with a 440rwhp R33 - its been through inspection no probs, same goes in QLD, NSW - cheap easy engineers reports (that dont get knocked back by the RTA) same in VIC. SA is farked. Regency, Tpt Minister, and Traffic cops all take it where the sun dont shine.

Not selling the greddy oil pressure guage are you?

fark them. The dirty pricks who pick on people for owning a nice car. I hate the low life farkers, and I aint gonna stop saying it cos the oxygen theiving pricks might get uppity. Perhaps they may realise that it is their attitude that creates the negative attitude of the public - they are out trying to defect cars while criminals are burgling houses and cars and they just dont give a rats arse - the police in SA are the biggest joke in the country. They need to pull their heads out of their lazy arses and start chasing real criminals instead of taking the easy option and just pissing honest taxpayers off. If we all gave up the car game and just stole other peoples shit, we would be fine - maybe thats what we should all do? More profitable, and no chance of getting caught, cos the police dont bother investigating - they are out chasing dangerous criminals who modify cars. Fark them. /rant, feel much better. copbait, I will come on one condition - you make it a cruise throught the city, on friday, starting at 4pm, down king william st, and I will break down (cos my car is so bloody dangerous and a menace to all) and they can organise tows for a couple of hundred people. That would make em take notice, truckies did it, and it worked for them. once again fark the dirty low life pricks who do this shit. They are just lazy, arrogant arseholes.

Will be selling very, very soon. Deans car is very nice too.

OK, just looked it up, correction is 58.0%, lag correction is -0.15ms - have you got resistor packs as well? you need an extra 12ohms per injector.

R31 is on the money, the INJ/IGN is the one you want - just divide the stock injector capacity with the new injector capacity, the resultant 0.xx will equate to the percentage you will need. Also, you have an "injector" menu, you need to put in the correction there too - this is for closed loop (idle, cruise) and cold start correction - you will also see a lag correction, if you have a look here: http://www.ap-engineering.co.jp/el/inj_top.htm from memory they have the lag times and injector capacities for stock (and aftermarket) injectors including the relevant fuel rail pressures. The lag correction is to make sure the injectors fire at the right time. Most tuners I have been to dont even seem to realise it is there, but it made a big difference to idle and cruise with my 550cc. Oh, and lastly, the IGN/INJ correction is volatile, so when you stop the car, you will have to re-enter the correction until it is tuned. Its a very handy feature for the ign side of things too - if detonation is up a bit, on a hot day, bad fuel whatever, just pull a degree or two across the map to prevent expensive problems. Dont be scared to do the correction and drive the car - just dont thrash it and keep an eye on the knock. GL

How the hell do you get a sticker removed from your car???? God it took me over a week to get the turbo/manifold/plenum off the skyline, not to mention all the other bits. I will definately be in touch when I get back:)