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Steve

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Everything posted by Steve

  1. They were quite hard werent they? Any chance you could post up a piccy? or send me one?
  2. Chris, you the man. 17x9 would be perfect as I have a couple of 235s that need destroying:) Can you pm me when would be a handy time for me to pop around? Cheers Steve
  3. Height and damper - what springs do you have on them at the moment Hippy?
  4. Well, maybe the 15.2 is the charge voltage from the alternator? not sure. the O2 sensor should go from over 0.9 to around 0.02/0.04V. If its not, something aint right.
  5. oh, and the 15.2 isnt voltage, its AF ratio, or 15.2:1. Stoich is around 14.5, under boost will be from 11:1 (or less if stock) to around 12:1 During cruise, the car should run a bit lean (>14.5) as this is how it improves economy. But note, if your O2 sensor is old, it may well be giving false readings. Oh, and the O2 sensor voltage is in range between 0.0 to 1.0V.
  6. Where is your TPS voltage set? It should be around the 0.48-0.50V mark. In range for throttle shut is 0.4 to 0.6V. If it is too close to the point that indicates open (above 0.6v) it may be fluctuating and cause the engine to think you have applied accelerator. It did it with mine.
  7. Has anybody got a spare couple of rims I can borrow? Might have to start bugging used tyre mart too. Bl4cK32, if she aint run in, borrow Dean's car!
  8. Dont bother. I lived in WA, and a cop mate of my brother told me that - with similar mods to what you quoted. He said that unless I go lighting up the tyres in town, or doing laps around the city or Kings park - I will never get pulled over, and I didnt. If you do have to get a defect removed, you just pay $30 at the same time and get a permit for those mods. Its that simple. Drop MetBlueGTSt a PM, he has had his done.
  9. darrinspencer, I dont think I understand what you were hoping to achieve with this thread. All replies have been along the same line, dont trust a salesman, dont trust highflows, and dont trust anyone telling you you can get 590cc out of stock injectors with a drill to within 1cc. To top it off, they slam denso injectors? (are the stock ones denso aswell?) - yet you then say words to the effect that 'these guys know what they are doing'. If you truely believed that, why even ask others opinions????? Like I said, I sort of fail to see what you were hoping to achieve with this thread? Am I missing something?
  10. Trent, I am definately IN Thanks heaps for organising this - come on SAU, this has gotta be the most fun you can have with your clothes on. Jap imports were BUILT TO THRASH - so lets get behind this and see if they can be a regular event! SA to lead aust in drift:)
  11. Mods please delete
  12. I would like to see that. Do it once, do it right, and enjoy:)
  13. No probs Dean, can you pm me your address? I will be finished with the navy on friday - discharging, so will be able to pop around any time you like. They are good for twisties, but depends on how hard you push them. I have a borrowed set of springs in there at the moment, 8kg front and I think 6 or 8kg rear - they are sort of intermediate. The original springs that were in are a bit softer - ask Hippy what they were like:). But, I want to go harder still, cos I like the go-kart feel. N/A, they are gold, adjustable height via circlip similar to bilstein, and 30 posn adjustable damper but they dont use standard coilover springs, they need stock size springs. Edit, the springs that I have with them currently (not the loaners fitted) are Bestex.
  14. Feel like doing a swap???
  15. OK, but the little pricks keep on moving at level 3... dirty rotten gay bar loitering vermin
  16. If anybody has a set they want to get rid of, I am chasing a set of R33 GTSt uprated springs - around 8kg rear and 10 kg front, or 10kg rear and 12kg front. I need stock size to fit on the ohlins sus I have in place now. Either that or if anyone has some hard sus for an R33 that they want to swap for some ohlins with a comfy ride, firm, but not hard, let me know:) Cheers guys Steve
  17. WTF????? I dont even bloody know what is happening - someone is sqashing a chipmunk in the background (audio) but other than that?????? So what is the go, what are you supposed to be doing? Excuse my Baka Gaijin stupidity, but I just cant read kanji.
  18. A decent high flow cat and cat back, you should be pushing 9psi without a bleed or EBC. Management - get everything running well, and smoothly FMIC - cool the intake charge down THEN turn up the boost, around 12 psi is nice and safe - should see around 200rwkw. Just be aware, when you fit the FMIC, you may need a new clutch, I did. My 0.02c incl
  19. Sell it, you will need to return the car to OEM anyways to get it complied. There are several ECU options available that wont require you driving to sydney every time you want it tuned.
  20. EL Ford O2 sensor, from petroject cost me $80. The plug is different, as are the pins, so you need to swap them. I couldnt get the solder to take to the OEM sensor wires, so had to remove the pins from the plug, cut the wires and solder directly to the pins. Either that or $184 from nissan.
  21. 62% duty is fine - start thinking about upgrading when you get closer to 80-85% duty. Having said that, a decent fuel pump will be needed before your injectors will be a problem. This is a good idea once you start to nudge around 200rwkw. Add an adjustable fuel pressure reg, and run 3kg base pressure (2.55kg is stock) and you can stretch the stock injectors a bit further quite safely. What sort of power goals are you after? You should be able to get 230+rwkw quite safely with fuel pressure reg and decent fuel pump. Above this point is when you really need to be thinking about injectors.
  22. I would have thought you would be making close to that power you have with a stock ecu.... I would be interested to know what model Microtech it is - also, who set it up. If you can find someone with a power fc, or even a stock ecu, it may just be worth seeing how it goes. My initial suspicions are ecu.
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