simons987

Whats with the attitude mate!!!! I think your the dickhead, show some respect towards the fellow members here at skylines australia, I suggested an idea and a theory behind it and all you can really say is I'm a dick head, I bet you don't even know what the difference is between a ratchet and a ring spanner. How about a smart answer not a smart ass one. R31Nismoid thank you for input into this, yes I see where your coming from with this a motor will no where near spin up to 140000rpm to 150000rpm. Ok it has been confirmed this idea will not work so back up and keep the negativity off the forums. I put this on the forum to receive feedback not dumb comments. Just proves how bad skylines australia is. (Note to admin!!!) If you got nothing good to say don't say it at all.

hahahhaha , Yes I know it is stupid, very stupid, EXTREMELY stupid but I've been watching to many Mythbusters and I want to bust this case lol hahahaha. You have a very valid point with the compressor wheel rotating. By testing with a compressor wheel welded and checking the result and by testing having the compressor wheel rotating by an electronic motor I might be able to achieve the result lol. I'm assuming why HKS and other companys wouldn't do this is for 2 reasons. Cost and CBF doing something this stupid lol. Sadly I am a sucker for the low pitched flutter that sounds like a rattle snake lol.

A suggestion if its for for a track car is to change ecu and get rid of the AFM and go MAP, I would personally stick with the AFM and keep it in stock position track car or street. Depending on the amount of power your making and CFM you require unless your car is making near 1000hp a setup like this will make 5% difference in your setup.. As Status mention he literally needs to cut and epoxy the afm on the cooler piping to avoid it popping off and for a track car you'd be putting so much more stress on your setup then.

Hi Guys, For the sake of Turbo Science I have decided to undertake an experiment. Yes I know this might be stupid to some but I have searched for hours on end and have not found anything about modifying a blow off valve to sound different. If done successfully you might be able to flutter using your BOV's instead of your turbo lol. Flutter (Compressor Siege) happens when there is no way for compressed air to escape through a blow off valve once the throttle body is shut so it travels back through the intercooler piping through your compressor housing and out your compressor wheel. The escaping preasure cuts the blades of your turbo and generates Flutter. There have been millions of threads and discussions about doing damage to your Turbo. There have been people who blown up there turbos doing this in 10 minutes with 100hp cars and there have been 1000hp cars that have lasted for years doing this. Yes I love the flutter sound sadly I find it amusing. The problems I have is I have a Surge Slotted Turbo and for good reason GTX lol. Also having this flutter means when ever you change gear you will have to build back boost since you would have lost this with it coming out of your turbo not in a recirculated or atmo fashion. Searching away I did find a sigh of hope. The HKS SSQV has inserts that modify the sound of there BOVs. SIlver, Purple and Gold make significantly different sounds but the one that intreged me the most is the Gold Insert. It makes the BOV flutter and is in the shape of blades (Turbos don't make high pitched flutters like this example lol). So reading through a VLT forum learning the different ways making your car "DOSE" lol why couldn't this science be applied to a blow off valve. Attached is a pic of a turbosmart kompact 34mm Dual Port BOV. Welding up the holes on the trumpet and welding a 38mm 90 degree pipe to the blow off valve would in theory make the blow off valve sound deeper. The next stage to obtain the flutter effect would be to cut in half a compressor wheel and grinding out the blades to allow more air to pass. You would then weld the modified compressor housing at the beginning of the pipe close to the trumpet so when the compressed air passes it will cut the blades and generate the flutter affect, as the valve will close the air will not have anywhere to escape bouncing back and forth generating the flutter. This should have no affect on the car what so ever as any air that comes in the bov by any change would be VERY minimal and would either go back through the manifold or come out your turbo in my case the surge slots lol. There are so many ways of doing this and I will be doing different methods until I find the right method. If accomplished I will post a vid of my results and the different methods used. I would appreciate any input from anyone including any BOV companys or mechanics as I would assume they have done this type of stuff before in testing. Since I have seen one 1 minor use of this in the HKS SSQV BOV. Something like this would be a real niece in the market (How nice am I been indulging this information out lol ) Thanks guys for making the effort of reading this

Much appreciated r31Nismoid for your advice, your wise words point me in the right direction lol, Will definitly be getting the turbosmart kompact then

Hi Guys, I am doing a full rebuild on my r34 to reach 300rwkw with Tomei 260 Degree Cams, GTX3076R (Surge Slotted) ect... I currently have in possession a Greddy Type R BOV 47mm and might be using it as a plumbback. I have my eye on a Turbosmart Kompact Dual Port 34mm BOV. The question I have is will these BOV handle 20PSI and won't leak boost., I'm running 2.5inch intercooler piping. What I like about the Turbosmart Dual Port is - Its Black - It vents both to the atmo and plumbed back. - Can be changed to only atmo or plumback easily - It is small and Compact - Easily adjustable - Easy fitment The problem with the Greddy is its HUGE!!!, painful to fit as I need to make brackets and weld the cooler and intake piping, it might be to extreme for what the car will be putting out, you see these in 600-1000hp cars. I know factory BOV will be highly recommended by many and some don't even run a BOV but at least I can have an option of a woosh, flutter and nothing when wanted lol. Has anyone had any experiences with these with 300rwkw and above.

Thanks for the feedback guys That rubber pipe did my head in lol on my old turbo setup I ran into that problem. After I replaced the pipe I didnt have any problems. Pipe bending and fabrications work isn't a problem. I have all the gear at home for fab work. Yeh I'm in a really bad area sunshine. Theres a blitz that goes on once a week at least around the area. Having a stock stealth looking setup will improve my chances for not getting done. Wow only a 6kw gain when removing the pod, that kind of information brings my confidents up I won't get any choking when doing the dyno. I am thinking about customizing the airbox in either 1 of 2 ways 1. The top part of the filter where the snorkal is located, the piece the snorkal fits into I will cut that out and customize it to take up the whole left section of the box. Then I will create a custom Snorkal to suck up all the air from the nose. 2. The old intercooler hole on the far right side I will run a pipe going up into a custom bottom end of the airbox. I will then install a pod inside the box and have both snorkal and piping at the bottom bringing in air. I'm more inclined doing the first as it requires less customizing to the box. With an oil based airfilter the CFM of air shouldn't be a problem.

Thanks R31Nismoid for the quick post, It has got the snorkal setup coming from the nose, comparing my mates R33 GTR Airbox to my stock box the GTR is around 20% larger. Once I finish the car and take it to the dyno I will post up my results.

Hi Guys, I have briefly searched the forum to try and find out the limits of a stock r34 gtt Airbox. I remember R31Nismoid mentioning he can get over 300awkw out of his r33 GTR with his stock airbox. I'm currently in the process building my 34 with a GTX3076R and Tomei Cams 260. Trying to keep the car stock looking as possible but obtaining that 300rwkw. Can anyone provide any insight if the airbox can handle 300rwkw with a decent filter. There is also a thread I have been trying to look for!!! It is a DIY making your own snorkal. I saw it once and can not find it again. If someone can kindly post that link up for me would be much appreciated

Sadly there is no Exedy part numbers for the Nismo GMax Spec 2 Clutches or any of the Nismo Coppermix line. I saw the prices and freaked out myself and called around, called stacks of Exedy Suppliers and Exedy directly. I got no where and they told me I must buy the nismos. I guess unless you directly experiment or find a performance shop that knows these secrets you will have to fork out the cash for it

Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the R34 GTT diffs are only Vicious and a popular upgrade is to buy a 34 GTR diff as it is helical and has a higher ratio.

Another difference in the GTX turbos is the Cartridge is much smaller to reduce shaft play. This makes it a real bitch to fit in the oil and water lines on a low mount!!!!

The rear housing doesn't look to big or the Front compressor wheel is huge lol. If you can find some turbo compressor maps shouldn't be a problem to calculate how much power you can get.

Agreed! Gotta love the GTX turbos , The biggest you want to go on a 2.5 is a GT35/40 and even then that is still laggy Nice setup btw T04z, you been watching to many Supra youtube videos

Consider the Nistune will be happy for what you want.

Its the motor that closes the second butterfly flap in your throttle body. It is controlled by the traction control

TALK STEER ARGGGHH!! Crash in a tree lol

Stick with the stock manifold. Iron Cast is much better then these stainless steel pipes, they are much stronger and are far better handling heat. From personal experience I just got sick of having to repair my stainless steel manifolds so I went back to the iron cast and have not had a problem. The manifold will allow for way more then 260rwkw. If you really want want that extra 2hp you can always do some mold porting. There are tones of guides on here on how to do porting.

Well you have made your decision Evo it is

Everyone should know its not about what can beat what. There will always be a car out there that will beat yours. Skyline, Evo, Rex, Soarer (Sadly lol), Charade (LOL), VN Commodore (LMAO). It's all about how much money you throw down the rabbit hole. It's what you personally prefer is the reason you get the car. It's your personal preference of what style you love to drive. This discussion will just go in loops trying to comapre each of them as they are very different cars. Evos are great cars basically the only "Great" car that comes from the Mitshu's but they are not what I want and love to drive. You will rape some and you will get raped by some.

The Microtech would have its own Idle control, I wonder if anyone has run it on a stock ecu or with Nistune????? Do you still have your TPS on and how is it setup? Is it configured to identify there is idle or has it been reset??

Hi Guys, I havern't seen many posts outlining the results of removing the AAC. Obviously to make up for it missing you would need to adjust the Throttle body to allow the right amount of air in idle. I know it is silly for it to be removed as it helps out when Aircon and power steering is been used + stacks of other things. Personally I am keeping mine on. But it would be nice seeing if people have done it and can provide their knowledge to anyone that decides to remove it. The Main questions I would ask if I was doing it is. 1. When adjusting the TPS would you reset the postion to 0 once you find the perfect idle or would you allow the ECU to relise there is some throttle been put down. 2. Would there be any problems with a BOV setup as creating a system like this you will never have full throttle closure. 3. Has any one experienced problems when going into full lock or turning on the air con.

Hey guys, Thanks for posting the graphs up. The low to mid range is a big improvement with VCT. I did eventually find a set of cams that will keep the VCT. There from Greddy and cost a fortune but are well worth it