all i got to say is that this is a value set up right here.
If i had the money i would be buying the turbo,manifold,split dump,alluminium pipe from turbo mouth to pod filter & Pump with swirl pot.
Seriously nice peice of kit you have there.
eyah ventured down there today and picked half a metre of the thick stuff up.
Have finished the airbox will post some pics after.The new stainless airbox lid is utilising the bonnet scoop but was getting extremely hot without any insulation.Will see how it goes tomorrow at retaining heat.
Also took the time to make a good seal on the bonnet.
Have just bought myself a set of RB74's and am going to use thm allong with the stock rotors.
Their judgement day is @ wakefeild next week.I have a feeling that they will be ample enough for my needs.
As far as the bedding in proceedure goes i was told to do 4 runs at 70kph down to 10kph using med braking force.Then drive easy for a couple of mins then do it again.then just drive normal.
Was also told to never brake hard,drive over 100kph and brake or hold the accelerator down while holding brake down when bedding in new brakes.all no no's
As teh tittle says.
I need somthing that will be able to cover the new lid i made for my airbox.Atm it gets uber hot under the engine bay even with a vent raming air directly into the airbox.The lid is made of thin wall stainless steel.
So is there aywhere in sydney that sells this and what is the technical name for heatproof pad??
What is everyone else using?
once you hit full boost you should have a little more power and torque thru most if not the entire rev range.
Are you adding more boost as well? This will add to the lag effect.
repost from a while back....
But yeah it might be road reg but i bet if it was seen by the po po on the street they would have it off the road in no time.
It was prolly reg before the mods took place.This is how every1 who modifyes cars like this gets away with saying that it is road legal..after rego expires it will never be road reg again.
I like it...
wow a few cars made the turnout then.I never went because of the fact that the cops would more than likely turn up and want every1 to move on.meaning that your not wanted anywhere.so then evry1 goes to another place and the same thing.
Been to so many cruises where that has happend.
Post the pics that you took at maccas plz....
yeah they look the part.
It looks like they will cone spray.They were $36.30each with filters.
I was spewing that they diddnt have a cylinder peice to screw over the end of the filter so it could easily be hooked up to my washer bottle lines.Now i have to go and buy reducers so i can run the large hose from the atomiser and reduce it down to the washer bottle size hose.
Heres a pic of the ones i got from TECPRO at castle hill.the one on the left is fully asembled and the latter is with the filter tail dissassembled.
Here are the links to Autospeeds-diy Intelligent Intercooler Water Spray.
part 1
part 2
part 3
part 4
The whole thing with atomisation is so that the water can quickly and effectively cool an object.Because the water dropplets are so minutely small they are evaporated so much more quickly than a dropplet of water would ever be evaporated.effectively cooling the object quicker and much more efficiently also saving water in the process.
As the tittle says.here is the one i found in sydney.
>>NOZZLE<<
Here is another but i think it's in melb.
>>NOZZLE2<<
Im actually looking to run a home made kit on the intercooler.Which will run from the washer bottle.
So far on the list i have:-
#atomiser spray nozzle. #check#
#filter.(So no blockages occur) #check#
#hose.
#A T bypass peice with a vavle.(so i can switch between intercooler spray and windscreen washers)
ahh kthn.
I thought that if the oil had a start temp rating of say 5W and a hot running rateing of 60W that the oil was good at cold start up and was able to flow more oil giving the parts good oil when needed.
And so what your saying is,that if the oil was say in a hot engine being thrashed,the 40W will maintain it's hot oils integrity the same as the 50W would be able to maintain itself under polognged use.
The average street car is never going to see that sort of abuse.
Thermal properties of the oil are directly related to the oils viscosity because temp will thin it out IE:The molecular structure of the oil is adversly changed when heated close to boiling.so it does have an affect.
Thats where wear and tear come into play.when the oil chosen for the engine is below or above the cars natural running viscosity.u choose the oil for what abuse you intend to have the engine put under.