suwidji

lots of terms that i had to google lol, not familiar with suspension terms. So what you're saying is, I won't need camber kit, but getting an aftermarket upper arm with poly bushes (or rubber) OR just getting eccentric poly bushes and replacing the ones on the current arms is the way to go? & that's correct, i drive the car straight pretty much all the time, and the inside of the tyre was worn completely. So just a 0.5 or 1 degree adjustment would be sufficient to fix my tread wear? Any recommendations to reliable brands for upper arms/eccentric poly bushes? Don't want to cheap out on this lol

oh sorry, i have a 1998 r34 gtt with stock shocks, and low king springs. If -2 is normal, is there any way to allow the tread to wear evenly on the tyres?

Hi all, went in to get pink slip today, and was told the inner part of my front tyres were completely bald. I didn't even realise because it's not on the showing side, and I was told it was due to the camber on it. I bought 2 new tyres and chucked them on to get my pinks approved, but was advised to get camber kits to fix the wear. I'm not very knowledgeable in this area and thought it would be quicker to ask. I've dropped my car a while ago with king springs (i think ultra low?) and the final measurement done by the workshop for camber was: left: -2º08' right: -2º16' individual toe (both left and right): +0.8mm setback: +0º07' Wondering if camber kits is the way to go to fix up the wear, and if so, what is a reliable brand to go with?

same thing happened to me when i didn't tighten the silicon joiners on my intercooler pipes tight enough. Popping noise was the cooler piping coming loose (and even open one time lol), and whenever i accelerated there was a high pitch whine, audible from inside the cabin. Un-did all IC piping joints, and put it all back together nice and tight. fixed it up fo rme!

yeh i noticed 3 positive wires, which merge into 1 which go to the fuel pump. I cut the single wire closest to the fuel pump, and didn't touch the 3 separate black and yellow wires. all you have to do is rich into the fuel tank after you take the assembly off the top, and pull it up and out. The pump assembly just slides onto a mount inside the fuel tank, so no need to use any tools.

sweet, makes me feel better lol. thanks guys!

hey all, i ran my car on dyno today for the very first time since i got my car almost 2 years ago. I have a 1998 r34Gtt with the following mods: -3" jjr bellmouth front pipe -4" 100cpi venom cat converter -3" blitz catback exhaust -255lph walbro fuel pump (and rewired) -cooling pro stealth fmic -turbotech mbc set to 10psi my peak run was 157kw after 3 runs on the dyno at MCR. i had a look at this guide on forum http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/282082-nissan-skyline-r34-gtt-modificationtuning-guide/ and was expecting quite a bit higher from my dyno runs today. I have no nistune or aftermarket ECU as of yet, and was wondering if this is normal without tune?

black 34 red p plater at towers parking yesterday arvo. I parked my black 34 next to yours lol. Also saw a midnight purple 34GTR at norwesr behind the shell station, gave a wave and got a head nod back lol

So are the drain plugs on both the radiator and the engine block easy to find and reach? Also, is it in the same position for the 34 as it is for the 33? I've heard that the 34 drain plug is a biatch to get to?

is the method and drain plug location for a 34 gtt the same as 33? if so, do you have any photos of the process? I "had" a coolant leak somewhere, as whenever i drove the car out of the garage i saw a small pool of green lol. Everytime i topped up the overflow, it went empty in a few days and i dont know where it went. Opening my engine bay, i see something has splashed around and left white splash marks around the place, around the radiator included. So i wish to change out my radiator to a new one, and flush my cooling system too.

when i search H1 and D2R, both of those photos showed up, so i wasn't sure. In saying that, the bulbs i have atm look like the D2R ones, except the base itself doesn't look like that. I assume I have factory xenon headlights, going off the fact it says "xenon" inside the headlight. No need fto be so negative, I'm asking a question. Even if it seems like a dumb one to you, it still may be valid for others.

uh alright, well i just purchased a 35W kit, i didn't realise it was considerably cheaper than the 55W one i bought few years ago lol. cheers for the replies

i'm not looking at converting, it's already a 55w one. Just wanting to know which bulb lol. Though I'm considering 35W. What's the major difference between the 2? I know when i turn my headlights on, the radio has crazy interference lol. Is it noticeably less with the 35W?

hey all, I'm looking at changing out my HID bulbs (currently 8000K) to something more white (4300K), but i'm not exactly sure which bulb i have. I had a look at the ballast, and it has no indication. It only says 55W and 12V, but no idea what the bulb type is, whether it's H1 or D2R. Also took the bulb out and had a look, but nothing. Tried googling what both H1 and D2R bulbs look like, and they look the same to me lol. Anyway to know how?

PM'd

pics of the indicators? and pics of the worn bulb socket, not too sure what you mean by that?

I have the pump sitting in the same position as stock, but the sock itself doesn't reach as low as the stock one. I filled up my tank today and it starts up fine after i prime the pump so I won't be able to test the fuel filter hose removal until it happens again i guess :\

Just the thread i was after!! I mounted my walbro in the exact location as the stock one, but I was provided with a vertical strainer/filter, but it's still about an inch shorter than the stock. I didn't realise i had to install it lower, and therefore my car would just crank and try and try and try to start up, but just wouldn't fire up when I got down to about 1/4 tank. I was supplied with a black sock that i didn't know what i needed it for, but now I'm assuming it's to cover the pump. I'm not exactly sure what material it is though, and I don't want it to dissolve or whatnot in my fuel. I may have a go at just lowering it without the sock, and just maybe try my luck at using just one hose clamp? :\ Can anyone tell me what size hose clamp is needed to tighten the pump onto the cradle thing? Also, will I need to cut off the metal round thing on the cradle where the stock pump used to sit on the rubber mount?

Ok, so i re-grounded it, and it works better. However!!! I have realised that whenever i get to about a quarter (or below) of fuel, my car won't bloody start up. Took me so long to get it to fire up. I turn the key ON and i hear the relay click, which means the problem is between the relay and the pump, correct? The strainer that came with the walbro pump is quite a bit shorter than the original stock one. Was I supposed to re-use the stock strainer, or use the provided one? Why I ask, is that I believe that the strainer I'm using sits a lot higher than the original one, and therefore is not "straining" any fuel because it won't reach the fuel down the bottom of the tank when i get low. When i crank the engine at low fuel level, I can hear the pump trying to do something, but the car just won't fire up.

would also like to know, but for 60mm gauges lol.

uh alright, fair enough. I'll re-earth the pump and see if it works. Only reason i grounded to battery is because of the tutorial lol. My exhaust is fairly loud (blitz nur spec) so maybe that's why i can't really hear it. Maybe if i chuck the silencer in, it'd be more audible lol. thanks!

nah it's bare metal, not painted. Using a multimeter from the positive and to that ground gives me 14.1V, so im assuming it's a good ground.. My battery is under the bonnet, and using 8g cable. BUT i think i have a breakthrough! When i turn the ignition to ON instead of trying to start the car, I can hear the relay "turning on" i guess? Once the noises have stopped, i proceed to start the engine, and it starts up without a hitch. Is this normal :\ because I haven't heard of anyone needing to wait for the relay to start up lol. I've tried this a few times today, and the car starts up everytime. Also, why do i read that people can hear buzzing from their pump after this rewire? I don't hear any difference :\

uh ok, i'll try earth it elsewhere. There's a bolt up the top left behind the parcel shelf and behind the speaker etc. Not really sure how to describe it, but it seemed like a good spot.. that's where the ground for the relay is.

so when i woke up today,the car would struggle again, and needed to be tried about 2 times before it actually worked. also, after leaving it parked at bondi for 2 hours, it also struggled and would not start (took me 4-5 tries until it did) Any idea what the problem is?? whenever i try to crank it up, it also takes longer to start than it used to.. like it tries a lot longer

Yeh, did that too also gave a bit of a quick squirt around the block, and ran fine. Only thing is that the original wiring i cut is so short that there's no slack in the wiring to relocate the relay anywhere but leaving it on the parcel shelf lol. I'm sure by soldering some new wires onto the existing you can do it, but for now it's sitting tight on the shelf lol. just glad the car runs