turbo76lx

Looks like i need to cut and extend the front flares about 50mm.

Ended up getting some Achilles 265/35 18 sport 2's to set up the flairs, the front flairs are going to need a lot of work. I think I will need to cut them and extend the height to allow for when the wheels are turned and suspension travel. And why, because voices.

Update time. So finished building the LX sedan, rebuilt motor back in the purple hatch just waiting to get it tuned, brought a HT kingswood I'm still trying to work out why I brought it, and gave my HJ panel van some love. The HT The van, air baged, 9", 4 link, tubbed, injected 308, t700 box. So now I'm back into this project, brought some recaro SR2 and started setting up the panels to set the panel gaps and fit the flairs which will need a bit of work.

Maybe interested depending on location.

Sorry guys, no updates but getting closer to finishing this one then i'm back into it. photobucket link http://s664.photobucket.com/user/turbo76lx/library/A9X%20hatch http://s664.photobucket.com/user/turbo76lx/library/a9x%20hatch%202

No real updates, have been working on this one. And melted a hole in number 6 piston in the purple hatch, lift pump failed and leaned out at Heathcote last October. The motor is currently at JPC getting rebuilt.

Have a look at rs online for the sensors. http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/magnetic-pickups/2355706/

Had the front quaife centre turn up, now just waiting on the rest of the bearing so I can put it together.

Hi Kris..

Hi Justin yes this is out of GTR R33, I would go the 3843S-RS520 kit This should help for the part numbers. http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competition/lsd/pdf/repair04.pdf I brought the kit form rhd japan http://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-r200-mechanical-lsd-disc-kit-rs521.html Negun also have rebuild kits. http://www.nengun.com/nismo/lsd-repair-parts

Few more things done, rebuilt the clutches in the diff. The bearings and back lash was fine so brought the nismo 3843S-R521 kit but should have brought the 3843S-R520 kit. The R521 kit came with 4 spring plates, 2 spring discs 4 friction discs and 2 friction plates, this made about 130ft/lb brake away. I used 2 spring plates, 2 spring discs, 4 friction plates and 4 friction discs, this would be the same as the R520 kit. The brake away torque to start with was 25 ft/lb and ended up with 69 ft/lb. Gave the pressure rings and the casing a polish with some fine sand paper and filed the sharp edges, this helped the pressure ring slide smoothly. Pressure ring before polishing. After Polishing the casing where the ears run. Made some plates to bolt to the flanges for testing and removing the stubs. Put back together with a quick coat of paint. Also started to de-burred the block and modified a corner on the fuel tank to give the exhaust more clearance.

Welded up the sump but it distorted to much so I made up another one without the extra extension at the back. Made a new pick up, still need to make a bracket back to the girdle and modified the windage tray. Had the ETS-pro from Full Race turn up, finding this unit was the trigger for starting the whole project.

What brand balancer, ATI, Ross?

These are +18 but this has all the skyline running gear under it, with the torana you would be looking at a 0 to negative off set.

Will be running flares, using 18x9.5 all around.

Bit of an update, brought some wheels, crossfire D-spec 18x9.5 also brought some hardrace rear arms. Started extending the sump and filling in the bottom of it to hopefully help oil return. Little bit of stick out.

Got the bonnet hinges made but still need some work. Will probably use a combination on small gas struts on the hinges and a bonnet stay to keep it up.

Hi guys, I stopped counting the hours months ago.

Small update, welded up the intake pipe and return from the synapse diverter valve to the intake. Don't think I will use the air box I made. Also trying to work out a bonnet hinge, going to make some in the style or R33 boot hinges. These are just some pieces of flat bar to work out the lengths of the links and where the pivot points will be. Should be able to make the bonnet swing up 90 deg.

I used the R33 sub frame, I think the R34 sub frame is the same.

Made up a second catch can/windscreen washer bottle and also a power steering reservoir. I plan on running two catch cans, one on the drivers side retuning to the PVC and to the sump and the second on the passengers side returning to the inlet of the turbo and the sump as well. I'll be able to hide the boost control valve and windscreen washer pump in the cavity under the tank.

Added braces to the front, under the guards to help support the top of the suspension towers. Also made braces to go from the front subfame to the torana subframe mounting points.

Got the exhaust made, 3" stainless.

All loaded up for show us ya wheels in Numurkah tomorrow. Had some goodies turn up.

Another job done, used the rear r33 tailshart and shortened it 45mm shorter than the r32 tailshaft and cleaned and regreased the cv joints. Found the r32 cv has a rubber seal at the back and the r33 doesn't R33 cv