Lazy-Bastard

How about you return the favour? 25 received 0 given! ???

it almost looks like one of those aussie legend cars with the 1500 bike engine

Sue me if it's a re-post

Whichever way you set it up, you only need 4 in total. I think from memory the drift setup requires 4 small and no large but check the whiteline fitting guide

Mine doesn't have a gasket and I've had no issues

Following on from this thread in General Maintenance http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...&hl=window* My drivers side power window has been playing up for ages and I have been trying to find the root of the problem. It would work most times, then all of a sudden just stop working. If I bashed the door handle and switch surround a couple of times it would sometimes start working again, but also sometimes not. Then it would work again for no apparent reason. First I thought it was the switch mechanism, so I pulled it apart a couple of times and checked everything, and re-soldered anything that looked dodgy but it never fixed the problem. I found the culprit to be the relay/switch (mentioned in the thread above)for the auto power window. If I moved the plug connected to the relay around a bit it would start working again. Interestingly though, there was always a ticking coming from the box when you used the window switch, whether it was working or not. I didn't really have time to look at it properly when I first discovered it, so I cable tied the plug in a position where there was obviously a decent enough contact to get the windows working, and left it at that. That fix was all working fine for a few months, but the other day I got stuck with the window down and it wasn't going up for love or money, so I was forced to take action. I have taken some pics that may help others (the quality is crap)...this was the procedure: Remove door trim - - FIRST! remove the plastic cap in the armrest well and undo the screw located underneath, that is if it hasn't already been destroyed by some other monkey, in which case there will be a gaping hole where the plastic mount point used to be, so skip this step. Mine came broken - Then, remove the plastic surround containing the window controls - there is a plastic clip underneath the centre of the surround holding it down so just lift from the outer edges in the middle until it pops out. - Next, remove the surround from the door lever/lock mechanism as outlined in the pic - Then, remove the three screws at the bottom of the trim as indicated in the pic and pop the push clips out on either side of the door. Then remove the door trim by lifting out and up from the bottom. Locate and remove relay - - Locate the relay to the right of the handle. Remove the plug and two screws holding it in place Dis-assemble and repair relay - - Lever the end off the relay with a small screwdriver or other weapon of choice. Pic shows lever points note the care and patience taken - The relay PCB is just sitting in there on some plastic runners and slides out easily. Remove and check all the soldier joints on the back for anything suspect looking. Mine was pretty obvoius as shown in the pic below - Re-solder anything that looks dodgy. BEFORE you put it all back together, plug it back in to the loom, connect your window switches and make sure it works. If so, re-assemble the relay and put everything back on in reverse. If it's still not working set the car on fire and call the insurance Co.

I'd rather leave used synthetic oil in there than cheapo flush oil. The issue still remains that there is quite an amount of oil left in the system after draining.

I reckon there's a good chance you will never hear another word about it. BUT!!! there's no excuse for parking in a handicap spot!

you didn't look very hard did you?....it's on the first page of the DIY section http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=129061

For the 4 bolts involved + dumping your coolant, I reckon it would save time and swearing/knuckle grinding just taking the turbo off. Plus you will have more room to move the mainfold etc.

1 full set of series 1 seats, front and rear. NO RAILS on front seats. Good condition apart from the usual small wear hole on drivers side. $200 ONO Pic soon 0414249292 or post/PM here

I'd like to see a direct comparison between the manifold in question, a factory manifold and a "name brand" AM log style. I reckon the performance difference between the 3 would be bugger all.

you can have my series 1 bonnet. Black....lots of stone chips.....$200

Looks like the same crap you see on ebay.....definately not tuned length so what's the point. I wouldn't expect it to perform any better than the factory log.

if they look like this then you need to remove the factory bushes. If they look like this then you leave the factory bushes in place.

I thought they might have been hi-flowed factory injectors, but they are a different colour to factory ones.

pics? who did you buy them off?

Running the line from the IC piping directly to the Wastegate actuator means that whatever the actuator spring is rated at, that is how much boost you are running. I think R32 actuators have a 10psi spring, but not sure about R33's Why not just re-install the bleed valve and turn the boost down a bit. That particular bleeder is quite highly regarded as far as bleed valves go....see here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=73375

+7 on the stock gauge is about 14psi

what turbo are you using? and what boost controller? and you forgot the dyno sheet

this guy is selling his whole interior at a cheap price pretty sure this includes the climate control module. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Skyline-R33-...1QQcmdZViewItem I would buy the heater core off you if it came with

so are they RB74's?

what is the actual brand?

You wont need any tuning re: the fuel pump, but if you want to get maximum benefit out of the cam gear (I presume you are only using the exhaust side one?) you will need a retune.

just jap are selling them for $330 new