Lazy-Bastard

you wont be able to use the injectors or "get it tuned" unless you have an aftermarket/remapped ECU or a piggyback ECU

Likewise, the water lines stay.

sell your R33? lol

I was tossing up an Aristo a few months ago, what with a 2nd kiddie otw and all. Would make a wicked sleeper for sure and lots of creature comforts as standard. The "auto only" kinda put me off, but you cant go past a luxo 2JZGTE for ~$15K. I decided to keep the Skyline, but I could turn in the blink of an eye

Pull a few degrees of timing from the entire map until you get it tuned.

As usual with these types of partitions, there is nowhere to get air from unless you have an FMIC with "over the radiator" return pipe. Also there is no provision for the factory air intake. For the $$ + postage you could make a better one yourself if you have the time, inclination, tools and patience...

Tommy Kaira Series 2 bar......hawtness http://www.freewebs.com/mass33r/SKY2.JPG

Just got some Federal SS595's Front - 235/45/17 - $149 fitted and balanced Rear - 255/40/17 - $200 fitted and balanced Compared to the Ventus 104's I had on the back previously (lasted 10 - 15K k's) they are a world apart in terms of grip....ie: much better Previously had Falken Zeix 326's on the front and couldn't wait to get rid of them. They are f**king dangerous. Went for a spirited mountain run last night and the SS595's have way more grip, both front and rear, than my old tyres. They feel solid and inspire confidence at normal to high speeds, but feel a bit wishy washy at 170+ Will reserve rating until I have given them a more thorough test, but initial feeling is very impressive....and you can't beat the price

No

O M G !

turbo - $800 - slide ECU - $1K - PFC (probably 2nd hand for this price nowdays) AFM - $350 w/ plug - anywhere injectors - $550 - Deatchwerks clutch - $460 - C & B not including labour or tune - $3160 oh, and then spend some money on your brakes

Agreed

Cut the indicated hose and join the corresponding colours together Your factory solenoid is disconnected already.... You are controlling boost directly off the actuator.

how about HPC coating the cooler pipes? I don't think it would be suitable for the IC but surely wouldn't hurt on the cooler piping and may also aid in reducing inlet temps as well as achieving your stealth look in the process

I just got a chance to give mine a decent run last night. I installed the turbo last week but still had the stock injectors in, so was using the actuator only to control boost (ie. ~10psi), so it was pretty slow and boring as the wastegate would start to open as soon as you made + pressure, then slowly built to .6 bar. Installed some 555cc injectors last night and put the turbotech BC back on set at 1.1bar. I am getting 1bar at ~3200rpm and full boost by 3500. First and second gear are a bit of a joke if you are up it and this is still running the PFC tune from my old hi-flow (which wasn't much bigger than stock, just with steel wheels). It feels pretty fat fuel wise so hopefully a re-tune will have the turbo spooling even earlier

I'm giving up crack, womanising and spending money on the car..... sif

Chapman & Chapman Automotive Excellence 96 Deshon St Woolloongabba QLD 4102 ph: (07) 3391 4522 Motor Engineers & Repairers

ewwwww. I hope the time off work is paid. Sounds like the recovery period for some type of fracture? Truly sucks about the car though. So much time, effort, thought and money wasted by the actions of 1 inconsiderate fool who probably shouldn't have a license in the first place. Best wishes for a speedy recovery and successfull outcome car wise. Onward and upward

Read about your car Liz, sad news, hope you are OK

lol....yeah, I guessed as much, but couldn't resist

Huh? So 2 sets of springs? He already has Pedders springs, I'm guessing with the factory shocks, which are probably on their last legs now after having to cope with lowered springs.

The easiest way I have found is to remove the inner guards in each wheel arch, then undo the 2 screws on each side that secure the front bar to the guards. Then disconnect the electrical connections to the indicators in the front bar. Lastly, remove the 2 nuts on each chassis rail that secure the reo bar to the chassis. The whole front bar and reo will now slide straight off by pulling forwards.

Does the wheel come with a Boss kit?

as always, I am a maybe

The Sydneykid packages would work out to be the same price or cheaper and probably handle better.....