BakemonoRicer

Why would you post this? There are a lot more drivers who actually don't own imports and act like dicks on public roads, yet do you single them out everytime you see them do something wrong? No. Is it because they don't own a Skyline and this somehow makes it less of an issue?

Proposed racetrack for the Central Coast..... Looks promising.... Discuss http://www.facebook.com/CASARpark

My ears were burning while I was liftin' heavy tonight. Now I know why...

Awesome number plates on that R32

I think we should alternate who leads the pack.... every 1 or 2 hours. That way everyone gets a fair share of slipstreaming to maximise dat fuel economy.

Also, have you been machine polishing?

Do you use a car cover?

Where is Adam when we need him?! He can lead the pack.....surely he's got around to installing a roo bar by now!

I agree. Very disappointing. Also, thanks man! Well, another update. The exhaust is installed - the system is a CES racing front/dump pipe, straight through stainless cat, and a HKS silent catback. Massssivee power and torque gain. The car is super punchy, especially around corners. It has completely transformed the car. The 2 cracks and potential problem areas in the front/dump pipe were completely tig welded, followed by being hit with VHT flame proof header paint. There has been talk on the forums that if you get a JDM catback, you need to get a cat that is 1 inch shorter than the ADM cat. This is nonsense. The cat pipe I bought was 300mm long, and was then extended another 50mm with a piece of 3 inch stainless to ADM length, and then flanged up to suit. The exhaust fits perfect this way. The guy who did the exhaust work can completely build cars, and has his own 10 second Datsun SR20 drag car. Front/dump pipe painted. Test fit of front/dump pipe Stainless cat pipe, tig welded with painted mild steel flanges Car now looks hoon spec =P

Nope, I've taken a shot at the role you've played in the situation. As far as I see it, a dealership has personally hand picked some vehicles to be odometer checked, which are late model Evo's which are easily found with low km's at auction in Japan. Obviously, a lower graded vehicle can usually be had for cheap even with low km's. So, do you think a dealership will pay you the overhead of $49 for every vehicle they import? Or do you possibly think they are just using you as a pawn in this situation?

Concours 900 DA is good... speak to Antonio from Waxit.com.au. They have an FB page as well. He will be able to point you in the right direction.

Compound whole car first, then polish whole car, then step 2 polish whole car. You will get a bit of dusting from compounding usually, so easier just doing everything in stages.

No worries. Also I should mention that when you clay, make sure you clay in straight lines. You don't need to use much pressure either, clay works with friction.... For my car I used Menzerna FG500 for compounding, and Menzerna PF2500 (polishes out the compounding marks) and SF4000 (jewelling polish). I got realllyyyy good results with those using a DA polisher machine. Another good combo I've heard really good things about is meguires M105 (compound) followed by M205 (polish), but I'm not sure if you can get it locally. Lol, yes sure. Once I finish uni this semester we can organise something if you like. Would be more than happy to detail your car. No guarantee about the panel gaps though =P.

Daniel & Chris, From memory the engine and gearbox mounts were around $225 for the lot. Then add labour onto that price. It took a mechanics workshop around 4 hours to remove my old ones and install the new ones, but they only charged me for 3 hours labour ($330). So it was $555 all up, quite pricey but definitely worth it. They will also last about 3 times as long as the stock mounts. I think ISC Performance only make them for S13/S14/S15 though..... but I'm sure there would be other similar options out there.

August Update. Got word from Tomei at the start of August that the problem with the oil pan was their fault. They said they are very sorry & they offered to reweld it or replace the oil pan, and also compensate me with a free t-shirt and sticker....so I'm hoping that the t-shirt and sticker will be super rare. Only problem is they don't have oil pans back in stock till September, but I've decided I'll just wait it out and have it replaced so long as they do a double check before they send it out. A few days later, I decided I'd just reinstall the stock oil pan for now. On August 20th, I had ISC Performance Solid polyurethane engine/gearbox mounts installed.... Initial impressions were that the cabin really vibrates like a mofo, lots of NVH (bear in mind I still have the stock exhaust and no power mods). However, this is expected to become a little less after I've done around 10,000kms. However, the car has a lotttttttt more character now and it is a lot more "race-car". The mounts have actually made the car handle like its on rails , throttle response has improved immensely and gear changes are incredible. Here is a video of me rev matching some downshifts now that the mounts have been installed... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iOYDIeGVoMw

July update. At this stage, the car was still off the road as I was waiting for a reply from Tomei. I filled in some time by spending approximately 50 man hours fully detailing the car. The only thing that is left to do is paint touch-up for stone chips and so on. Here are the results... in these photos the car has sealant applied, I added wax a little while after.

July update, Below are some pictures of a brand new fully automatic HKS Turbo Timer (Type 1). This turbo timer has long been discontinued. I choose this Turbo Timer as it has old school & era specific styling, and will look fairly stealth given its a similar colour to the under section of the dash. This one has a whole stack of extra functions such as vehicle speed and RPM display, speeding warning level, shift light, timer (for 0-400m, 0-100kmh etc) and more.

June update, I finally got around to taking the Tomei Oil Pan off. It was a bit of a hassle to take off due to its design, stock oil pan is much easier. I had it tested at two mechanics workshops and they both confirmed that a defective weld was causing the leak. I could either a) get it rewelded or b) ship it back to Tomei in Japan and prove a point. I opted for Option B as I really felt it was necessary to prove a point. Here is a pic of the weld causing the issue... In July, I picked up a few parts.... CES Racing Front/Dump Pipe Nismo Low Temp Thermostat OEM door bump rubbers ARK Design Turbo Timer Harness HID Harness ISC performance engine/gearbox mounts

DO NOT dry sand. If you wet sand (i'd avoid doing this) start with 2000 grit then work your way up. You need to know what you're doing as you need to avoid going through the clear, then you need to get the sanding marks out. Heres the process id recommend: Wash with dish soap, helps to strip existing wax and majority of grime. dry. Spray with 15% IPA dilution (mix with distilled water) - spray over car, use one microfiber followed by another for drying (so hold one in each hand). Will strip any remaining wax left over in the hills and valleys of the paint. Clay bar & soft ph balanced wash soap for lube. dry Compound...if you want to actually properly remove scratches etc, then you will need to compound.... IPA spritz again. Polish. Wash with soft ph neautral soap. dry. Seal (let cure for 24 hrs after wiping off). Apply wax. Plenty of compounds and polishes out there on the market, up to you.

Sinista, Scotty - please explain how is that trolling? Imports are something I am very passionate about and the fact the market has been flooded with sh*t really annoys me. If you want to have a shot at me, I'd prefer a PM explaining your issue...rather than trying to publicly flame me. When are you buying vehicles with dubious gradings from auction.....I wouldn't trust that the odometers are legitimate in the first place. It is quite easy for the owner to get the odometer wound back in Japan, without it being detected by a document check. If you think every Japanese person would never do such a thing then you are deluded. Low km's examples are worthhhh more at auction, and Japanese people know this. I have seen "grade 4" vehicles which appear to have a lot more history than noted on the auction sheet, so most R grade vehicles really are a massiveeee gamble, given auction houses are inclined to be a bit generous with the grading in some instances. It's not hard to tell the grade that gets brought in to most Sydney dealerships....so with that said, I really don't see the value in an odometer check given most of the time the true km's of the vehicle won't be detected. It is however good for detecting if a dealership has wound km's back. But I think the main problem is when dubiously graded vehicles are imported.

Over and out. This thread is getting no where.

^ This. Can you please stop pushing your business? You really have repeated yourself countless times... "I have received payment from Joe and will process the checks" would have sufficed. It's clear you're only here as a means of big noting your business and for monetary gain, so I take your whole freedom fighter act for the war on odometer windbacks with a grain of salt.

As I said, don't see the point of an odometer check now..... Pretty easy for a hypothetical person to cover up getting caught out by simply winding all the clocks forwards to auction sheet specification. However, I really do hope it was an honest mistake that the wrong km's were listed.... But end of the day, the japaneseodocheck right now won't prove anything. It will just be up to XtremeMotorsports to prove themselves from this point forward that the cars they import have genuine km's. Doesn't change the fact you imported an R grade Skyline, and advertised it as very clean.... The fact the bottom of the scrap heap comes over into the Sydney dealershipss realllyyyy shits me....the only people that are fooled are people who see a dealership are trustworthy and have no idea a dealership would sell them a car that's had accident history and/or dodgy repairs done. Import dealerships don't seem to realise that if they actually brought over genuine, nice & tidy examples over, people who actually know what theyre looking for (quite a big market) would be happy to shop at a dealership

Pencil me in on the reserve list please...

Lol. $80 for a certificate.....and you're trying to justify that's not a bad price. Facepalm, brah. Plus, there are ways for the odometer to be wound back in Japan without it coming up on one of your checks. Anyway, to Joe, I see the fact you are paying someone to do an odometer check as fairlyyyy pointless. Lets say a hypothetical vehicle had an odometer wound back, what's to stop it from just being wound forward, before getting the odometer check done?