marchGTR

it was 3 in the morning on a deserted road. we had a nice chat at a set of lights. we had 2 goes off the line and both times I dropped it from 6-7,000 and jumped him 1.5-2 carlengths in 1st then pulled away hard in 2nd then not as quickly in 3rd. I also had a jim berry 3500lb clutch in the car and 1bar boost, stock everything else. I ran a 12.8 like this so i think that a high 4sec 0-100 is probable. however from a roll it was closer, although i still was pulling away a bit

just before I sold my 33gtr I had a run with a 6l ls2 off the lights and I had him by several car lengths (4-5) towards the top of third. off a rolling start it was close, i was only walking away from him. my car at the time was stock except had boost restrictor removed and it had run 12.8 at calder. So I think out on the streets if a stock gtr launches it will beat a stock LS2 comfortably, and should be line ball with a 185-200rwkw gtst.

87 honda integra (stolen) 92 r32 gtst (sold) 97 180sx (sold) 96 180sx (sold) 96 r33 gtst (sold) 95 r33 GTR (sold) currenty dont have a car!

it depends on the dyno! my gtr dead stock made only 147AWKW (12psi stock) and with the restrictor removed made 169 AWKW (14.5PSI). to me that seemed a bit low although the improvement was substantial and it felt quick on the road. incidently it also ran 12.8 at 106 at this power so it definately was running well! so I guess it depends a lot on the dyno and a before/after comparison is often more accurate.

350-400rwkw

jap spec has bigger injectors, and a 6 bolt roller bearing turbo compared to the aussie 5 bolt. the steering wheels are nicer in the jap spec, the exhaust in both is very simiar and from my experience the difference in boost is minimal if at all different. ice performance have told me that the most they are able to speeze out of the aussie spec is about 180rwkw and jap spec more like 215rwkw. I have witnessed first hand two of my freinds going at it. one had a stock japspec the other an aussie spec with catback exhaust, and the japspec raped it everytime

from my experience stock for stock they are similar, with rexy better off the line and the skyline catching up top of second start of third.. driver ability is probably the most deciding factor

bummer, my guess is 8-10G to fix it

I would definately go a series 2 or 3 R33 GTR (96-97). You should be able to pick up a good clean example for approx 45 with a few mods and IMHO I think its a better option than the tt supra, especially if you decide to modify and enjoy the traction advantage that the GTR has.

when my previous R33 GTR was stock (except restrictor) I had a rolling run to about midway through 3rd and I beat a new M3 by quite a lot (3carlengths maybe) this was a rolling start off the lights and no launch. my caar in that current state of tune (stock bar 2psi increase) rand hd clutch ran a 12.8 @108

Hi Guys, Im currently looking at importing an r32 gtr and was looking at one which has had an 'exchanged core support' could anyone enlighten me to what this means and whether or not it could have had a big whack? should I stay away from something like this, should I ask any other questions, or just forget it? sorry if this is very basic, but im not that mechanically minded

my series 1 gtr and my friends series 1 gtr both have dual airbags

Squeeze the restrictor out from the outside, use any sort of pliers and pop it out like a cork, should take you a couple of minutes. probably didnt help much below 3G although definately hit boost harder and pulled better through to redline.

have you dropped it from 7k yet??? damn it feels fast when you do that!! my gtr is stock and I removed the boost restrictor and boost went up from 12psi to 14psi and gave me an extra 22awkw (with standard exhaust) and on the road it blows away a lot of more powerful cars

I agree, with stock exhaust you should get almost 1bar, but with a turbo back exhaust possibly a little more. Best to put in on a dyno and find out

from my experience of owning both: R33 GTST 13-14L/100km S13 (sr20) 10-12L/100km this is normal driving, not thrashing it, both stock cars. and on long trips the consumption is lower again

thats my car.. it went from 140awkw-162awkw (12-14.5psi) after the boost restrictor was removed...it hits boost harder now and pulls a bit harder especially in 3rd gear. I think with a full exhaust the boost would most probably creep up a bit more (16psi?). anyway my freinds GTR with full exhaust and no restrictor only runs 13psi on same dyno. so I guess there is some variation between cars. and for the record I ran the car with the restrictor intact.

mine ran 13.2 stock as a rock. I have since removed the boost restrictor (boost went up from 12-14.5psi, and an extra 22AWKW. I would still consider it stock and I think it will get close to a 12 now.

my brother has a Gtt and I have a 33GTR. Both are stock and both are fantastic cars. the 34 is a really smooth car compared to 33 gtst and it feels quite a bit more powerful than stock gtst. the 34 seems to grip to the road better than a 33gtst, nicer interior, really good seats, and the traction control is good to have (incase your mum,dad, girlfriend,wife has to drive it in the wet!). The GTR is definately more powerful, handles better, has really good bucket seats and has more potential to go really fast with a limited ammount of money put into it, for example my car was running 12psi stock, I removed the boost restrictor and it jumped to 14.5psi resulting in a gain of 25AWKW (with standard exhaust). slap on a full exhaust, camgears, PFC and with a good clutch you should be able to run very low to flat 12's or possibly quicker if running high boost and a few extra mods. to do the same consistently in the Gtt would require a turbo upgrade and all the things to go with it... So I guess it depends what you want the car for: a newer, lower km, lighter on pertrol, cheaper insurance, drifting then buy the Gtt. If it is pure performance and addictive 7G launches your after then I would go for the GTR

I have a friend with a stock tt supra (exhaust) and my stock 33 GTR beats it easy from standing starts all the way to top of third. Its closer from rolling starts although the gtr pulls away a bit. not sure what it would be like if both had a few mods, although I couldnt imagine him catching me in 1/4mile run unless he had quite a bit more power than me.

I have owned both a 92 R32 GTST and a 94 180. seats of the R32 are much better quality. performance in stock form is very similar, maybe the 180 is a bit quicker, although slower than a stock r33. once you wind up the boost, get an safc, exhaust the 180 will rape both the 32 and 33 with similar mods down the 1/4, and be better around corners. my suggetion is get a sr20 180, retrim the seats, nice wheels, a bit of boost and you have an awesome, reliable, fun street car. although you cant go wrong with the 32 either as it would also be a fun car to have and modify

looks like you're running really rich. get an safc, get the A/F right and you should be getting over 400KM per tank. in my stock GTR I get around 400KM per 50L, although if I drive it hard it drinks more

I used to have a stockish 33 gtst and I used to run close with the newer HSV's, win some-lost some. with my stock R33 GTR I have destroyed every HSV I have come across so far, including the 300KW GTS. even from rolling starts I was pulling away from the gts.

If its front pipes back how does $500 sound? I can pick it up.

any interest?