Missileman

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About Missileman

  • Rank
    Rank: RB25DET

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Beer, Photography, Aviation.

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    R32 GTS-t
  • Real Name
    Mike

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  1. 37mm x 4mm adhesive backed possibly horn button...?
  2. https://www.computeroutpost.com.au/imports/spec.asp?id=722
  3. ...and i mean all the exhaust studs, washers, and yokes.
  4. Don't just replace the studs, replace the yokes and washers too, it's a pain in the arse job, so do it right the first time.
  5. Gunmetal on a 32 is the best
  6. I had a girlfriend who a photo album of all her old dipsticks...she worked in a photographic lab.
  7. Those Ku39s are not too bad, they're good in the wet, but I did find that the harden up after a while. mine lasted 30K ~ 3.5 years, the last 6 months they were a little slippy.
  8. ...me I just used 5 min epoxy with a bit of talc/q-cel added to thicken it up.
  9. I've had my rb20 valve completely apart, used a dremel to remove the resin and a right angle scribe to get the last of it out of the threads. If you need more preload, then screw the brass plug in a touch more, I didn't have to stretch the spring
  10. There are two temperature sensors, one for the dashboard gauge and one for the computer to operate the fueling tables, so yes it still could be the cause of your issue. O2 sensor Computer Temp sensor and bad/ stuck thermostat. They are your most likely culprits.
  11. Looks like a lot of surface area to lose heat, I would have gone stock manifold and single scroll.
  12. ...subscribed, I've searched rigorously on these boards and still have not found a serious answer
  13. I was looking at these two... http://www.weberperformance.com.au/product_info.php?products_id=1215 http://www.gfb.com.au/products/fuel-management-products/fx-s-fuel-pressure-regulator-detail