Booki

Your effin kidding?? They are going to charge you because they are investigating the car? wtf.... Pretty sure we pay tax's to pay for police..... Got any update on it?

Funny enough I just put the castrol edge 5w-40 in my car. (Left the helix ultra on my shelf, maybe next change) Seems better, but still the motul felt the best from memory. I might grab a bottle of motul for my next oil change and see if it "feels" any different or if it was all in my head. Speaking of oil temps - What is a good oil temp for oil to be at? When is it getting too hot? Wondering if i should put a oil cooler on or not.

Not a paid member tho, Don't have a cams licence as never been to a track. What is classified as a approved helmet? Ive got some moto helmets. dirtbike and road bike. And negative on the fire extinguisher

I am a bit of a track noob, never been. But this looks like a good event to come down and give it a go. when do registration's close? How does it all work? Are we sau members eligible for the discounted price?

It was set correctly before but the attessa system would throw up codes because the volt reading would sometimes be low, might have to fiddle with it some more. Its at .41v with ignition and goes a little higher when the car is running. Is that normal?

Anybody know what the idle switch on the PFC means?

Hmmmm... So if my IDL switch is saying its off (as in not black) when the car is idling with obviously no throttle applied. Will it be a issue? I assume its just not running the idle map? My car's idle is a bit shit, because i cleaned the butterfly's on my throttle bodies when I upgraded the turbo's So that could even have something to do with it, none the less i think it was operating properly before. EDIT: Also i thought the max reading was 4v on wide open throttle?

Finally decided to adjust my TPS to hopefully fix the 4WD light coming on, as the error i got on th eattessa computer 7 long flash's anda 5 short ones, did some research and it comes up with the TPS. My TPS voltage on iginition was under 0.4v on my hand controller, after some reading it should be above .4 and under .5v is the general concensus. So i have adjusted my tps to read these values with the ignition on (motor not running), but under the sensor/check on the hand controller, there is a IDL option, and previously the dot was black on idle, but not with the adjustment sometimes its clear sometimes its black. will this impact anything? What does it mean? I have a feeling it means the ecu is in "idle" mode, but maybe i have adjusted my TPS to much and it thinks there is some load on the motor? Little confused and not 100% sure if my theories are correct. Any advice would be great!

After much hunting around and calling endlessly, finally found a bloke who sold me the pads in vic! Picked them up today and they fit pretty well under neath, they are about 15-16mm deep, vs the 10-12mm ones i have. Lifted the car up and no issues! He has pads for all different types of hoists too

When I jacked my lifted the car up with my hydraulic jack, I used the cross member with a block of wood. And the diff for the rear... I am looking at deeper style pads so it makes no contact with the sill, only the load points. Yeah I think I have ocd

How can you lift up the skyline with a flat pad? Wouldn't the sill get crushed? I thought its only designed to guide the jack to the two hard points beside the sill? So confused now!

Hmmm Can you describe what it looked like after you put it on? Was it just like someone had put contact on your car? Did it come off easy enough?

Did you use the the "clear" type or a different color?

Are we talking swirls that you could feel by hand, or that you could see within sunlight? How many coats did you put on?

http://www.evolvedcoatings.com.au/liquid-wrap/ Seems like a cheaper alternative to Plastidip. Apparantly they have a "clear" type of liquid wrap, sounds like it might be the goods for keeping my paint smick and preventing stone chips. Anybody got any experiance with liquid wrapping there car? I know lots of people do there wheels and they seem to out alright.

Thought about that, but would want something that wouldn't have such a harsh edge on my hoist pads or the list points of the car (pending which way you cut it) Then the added stuffing around making sure they are lined up and in the correct spots on every point of the car while lifting seems annoying. Hoping to find another pad with deeper grooves for this purpose so its just as easy and lifting anything else. Just a quick line up and check and up it goes, instead of having to worry about the bracket/tubing on my pads being on a slight angle, or not in the middle of the hoist pads, worst thing i am afraid of is if i am working on the car, and have to apply a bit of torque to something and a bracket tips over. could result in my car being sad, or myself having no emotion at all lol! Unless i am thinking about it the wrong way, or maybe I am just too much of a fussy prick. I would have to weld up a base plate to sit on my pads to make it extra safe, even then if it slips off due to incorrect lifting is also a possibility

You lost me mate, can you explain in a little more detail?

Alrighty! Actually got off my ass and had a good squizz at the car. As you guys have said, you can tell where the lift points are and how it works after looking at it with the pad under neath it (and comparing to the factory jack lol). But....the pads I have are not deep enough to totally prevent sill damage, it will hit the sill when i lift. anybody know of any other type of hoist pads or adapters i can use to be 100% safe not to damage the sills? (Yes im fussy like that ) The genuine nissan one is LM4086-0200 Havn't been able to find it online yet

Post some pics of the damage, I'm keen to see if anybody has the time to

Is there anywhere else you can lift the car up from? (Using a 2 post hoist) Can't grasp the concept that the little bit of metal sticking out where you put your emergency jack is where you lift the car from, maybe I am looking at the wrong thing. How do peoples get damaged if hoist pads have cutouts in them?

I thought the third one looked a bit mangled... I assume the pads on my hoist are fine for using those points? I don't need to do anything special?

I took a few snaps - i assume these are the sills, and like everyone else. Mine look like they have been damaged....so don't know if they are safe to lift on? I don't want to wreck them more :\ Can you lift from this point on the suspension? I have circled the area, although that only covers the rear....anywhere else i can go from the front?

Thanks for all the reply's fellas, Havn't had a change to throw it up on my lift yet, but was happy i remembered reading somewhere "Don't lift on the chassis rails" ha ha as my old man told me to put it on there!! When you say the jacking points ( I have never used them on the skyline, I always used to jack from the cross member up front and the diff on the rear), are you refering to the metal tab/cut out looking things just after the front wheels near my side skirts? There are also some just in front of the rear wheels too. I have uploaded a picture of my hoist pad, as it is all still pretty new to me! And yes - It's a 2 post hoist where the arms are of adjustable length Also - What are sill adapters?

Hey fellas, Got a hold of a hoist recently (best thing ever might i add), but just wondering where the hell do i put the arms under on the R33? The rails look pretty soft...so just thought I'd ask this silly question before i go and stuff something up!

Well both grades were rated the same, 5w-40 - is that what you are referring too scott? The R33 GTR has the stock oil temp gauge, once the oil gets up to temp, it seemed to feel the same as the motul (100degree's). Just at lower temps it felt like i described. Where the motul was different at lower temps. Its been a while since I had the motul in it, so looking forward to seeing how the Shell stacks up against the two, as its priced somewhat in between them both.