Booki

I was using Motul xcess 5w-40 before i tried the gulf, basically in a nutshell. Pressure would build up quicker with the motul oil The gulf western made the car feel "lethargic", almost like it was slower to rev up Otherwise that was it, it just felt different to drive....I mean I could be crazy and it could all be placebo, but there was definitely a difference in the way the car revved. Ill see how i go with the Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40.

I will be trying Shell Helix ULtra this coming service, hopefully it will be better then the Gulf Western Syx6000 5w-40. Was really disappointed with that oil after all the wrap it has gotten.

Your asking in the wrong thread for starters, and need to be more specific. Hard starting how? is it slow to crank, does it crank over repetitive and never fires? does it fire then stop straight away? Need more info Oil will not cause hard starting. Regardless if its thick/thin or cold/warm, its will not impact starting of the car unless - Its really thick sludge (in that case you got bigger problems) or there is no oil and everything just grinds. And for a recommended oil, use the thinnest you can without burning a excessive amount between changes. If 5w-40/50 doesn't burn use it. Otherwise go to a 10w/15w-40/50. Try different oils and see which feels best for you and your car.

You will probably find there is no "clear" answer, due to there are so many opinion's, and so many different types of oil... You have to make up your own mind on what works for you. My advice is, change it frequently, use a 5w-40 if your driving on the street, try and get a full synthetic.

I checked out the spec sheets of both Motul 8100 xcess and Gulf Westerns Synx6000, both were very similar on paper. even the Penrite HPR 5 is similar.... Could be just the cold weather...or there is something different between them that isn't counted on paper.

Could all be placebo but... Going from Motul 8100 xcess 5w/40 to Gulf Western Synx 5w/40. The motor feels a little more..."lethargic" during initial start, like it won't rev up as freely/easily/quickly. Could just be the weather....

Just put in some Synx 6000 5w-40 in my 295rwkw RB26 R33 GTR, Will let you know how it goes. Had Motul 8100 xcess before.

How much cheaper is the penrite? Long as you drop it regularly I don't think it matters too much. You may as well go cheaper as I don't think the hpr range are a "proper" full synthetic group iv oil? Tho not 100% sure Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD

Run what ever oil helps you sleep at night That said, I like to believe 10w/5w oils are fine, for our climate, I don't think there is a big difference in cold viscosity, but for your situation I would just let the car idle for a little bit to get the engine oil temp up so you are not getting to 100km/h on a completely stone cold motor. If you have a oil pressure gauge it should give you a rough idea on how the oil is flowing through your motor, cold it should be high, as it warms up it should stabilize. Use this to judge when its safe to travel at 100km/h, if you granny it up, even on a cold motor it should be fine. I don't rev my motor more then 3k rpm when its cold, and keep it light on the throttle till oil temps are normal. I am in no way giving professional/expert advice. Just from all the reading I have done, that's now my current opinion. I personally run 5w40 motul 8100 Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD

Car had been alright for a while, but it popped up again. Said,e 75 error code, assuming the values on the PFC are accurate and what the ecu goes by, it seems my tps is getting lower voltage then it should on idle/startup causing the errror to come on at random times. When it throws up the error it reads slightly less then my normal readings, this normally happens when the car is parked on a slope. Thinking it may need to be adjusted slightly. It might even be my battery, as the readings are higher when the car is running and lower with ignition on and car off. Can anybody confirm the readings they get when the car is idling vs ignition only? Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD

Strangely I get different readings from the pfc. 0.3~ with the car off on ignition 0.4~ with the car idling. Not normal?

Could the reading from the Apexi Power FC be false? If not, how can i fix it? Is the .45v reading when the car is on, cranking or just with the ignition on and car off? Also the reading is when i have the ignition on, not when the car is started/idling.

Bit of a thread update, I finally managed to check the error code when it came up again. I got 7 Long flash's, 5 short. Which i believe is error code 75 Now if only I knew what that meant....from some googling its apparantly the TPS sensor for Vspec models, though mine isn't Vspec! Has come on ONCE while taking a corner a little harder and giving it some, otherwise only during startup. Had a look at the TPS voltage from my Apexi power fc hand controller, from memory it was around 0.3v, is this normal voltage? Perhaps thats why its throwing up the error? As because when i accelerate a little while starting and hold it for a few seconds, the error code has never come up again.

Cheers for posting, all good!

Cheers andrew, Anybody else willing to share there experience on what particular fluids work well?

After much searching, I cannot get a straight answer. Some folks use ATF, others say don't. Some people say use Nissan Matic D, others say its not the same as "Nissan special power steering fluid" So wtf is "Nissan special power steering fluid" ? Read the following..as this was a persons communications with some fellas at Jap Nissan. As mentioned in this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/58968-r32-gt-r-fluid-oil-flush/ Have seen this particular bit of info floating around on other forums too... 1. Transfer case fluid Nissan Matic D is strongly requested because high torque is applied to transfer unit. 2.. Transfer case (ATTESA E-TS-PRO Actuator) : It is not acceptable to use DEXRON III fluid. > Only Nissan Power Steering Fluid Special use is required. Today I received the technical information from our design department. 1. The difference between the DEXRON III and Nissan Power Steering Fluid Special The viscosity characteristic of Power Steering Fluid Special is lower than that of ATF DEXRON III and the resistance to wear is also improved. Each viscosity is the same level at 100 deg.C and the former viscosity is designed to have the lower value for under 100 deg.C than the latter viscosity. This characteristic is aimed to rotate an oil pump located in ATTESA PRO actuator easily at the extremely low temperature (Around -30 deg.C or -40 deg.C) 2. What will happen if a customer puts DEXRON II or DEXRON III into the ATTESA PRO actuator reservoir in the trunk ? The 4WD performance will be largely decreased at the low temperature because the viscosity value of DEXRON II or III is extremely high compared to that of Power Steering Fluid Special ; As the rising characteristic of 4WD torque transfer becomes worse, it takes the longer time to transfer the driving torque to the front wheels. There is a possibility that the 4WD cannot be achieved in the worst case. So after reading that, I am just F****** confused, What do you fellas use, what works, what doesn't? Wanting to flush out the fluid thats in there and put in some fresh stuff in hopes it will stop my 4WD light from randomly coming on at start up as the fluid is very close to the min mark when the car is on.

Is the car safe to drive with the 4WD light on? Or should i continue to put it into RWD mode in the event the light doesn't turn off? I will have to look into it more over the weekend, its just inconsistent, so i take it the error codes/led's don't blink when the light doesn't come on? Thanks for all the advice thus far people!

After stopping for lunch today, getting back into my car the 4WD Light wouldn't go out. The car was stationary (parked). I checked the boot to look for error codes/lights but couldn't see the little box flashing. is it on the front, left, right or rear? I had to get back to work, so i put it in RWD mode (brown connector) and just got on with my day. Next time i got in the car, 20km's later, i put it back to 4WD mode (connected it back up) and it was all sweet.. Is it normal for the 4WD light to just come on randomly when first starting the car? Its never come on while driving since the initial start of the thread.

I installed a toggle switch over the weekend, works a treat. Anybody know though if you can enable/disable 4WD with the car still on? Or do you have to follow the procedure each time?

Just read through your build, nice work. Though how's that initial $4000 budget looking

Whoops...just noticed there is a wtb section. Mods move?

Wondering if anybody has a spare they want to sell or where to get one.

Do you have the blank switch plate on the dash?

When i tried the RWD mode, my 4WD light was constantly flashing the whole time, there was no torque going to the front according to the factory gauge...and you could feel it. I presume its normal for it to constantly flash. What i did was. 1. Disconnect the plug 2. Start the car 3. Press brake pedal till the 4WD light starts flashing 4. Drive

From memory that's the consult/diagnostics port. Nothing to worry about.