Scooby

Item: Sard 800cc twin hole injectors (sold pending payment), Sard 280l/hr fuel pump Age: New in box Condition: Injectors flow checked to test function only, still with original bags and boxes, never installed Price: Injectors $500, Pump $300. Prices include registered post. To Fit: RB26 R32 GTR Location: Canberra Contact: PM or post here Comments: Injectors have been lightly inscribed on main body with numbers 1-6 to denote richest - leanest. Pump still sealed in bag. If you can legitimately get them cheaper elsewhere drop me a PM and we can haggle, I do want to move them.

he should stick to balancing.

the never ending saga of poor trades people and how they affect us...sorry to hear it's still going on.

Pete you're in a great position do all of us R32 GTR owners a favour. Try my test ie pods, stock box with a stock ie nissan panel filter, and then remove the bottom of the stock box and tape the panel in. Or even just stock box with / without the bottom half if you're not going to try pods. Shouldn't cost you anything for one or two more power runs if you're tuning anyway. That will confirm if your experience is the same as mine and Mike's ie the bottom of the box is restrictive beyond a certain point. Remember if you're worried about legality it's also a good test as the box looks stock with the bottom half removed as the top butts up to the washer bottle, but once you put pods on it's a different story. Cheers

saw that ad with the busted KN filter. any idea how they filter with a dry element? cheers

My experiences re pods vs airbox and the effect of airbox modification are here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ai...irbox&st=20

My constant hints to Pete came to fruition, he confirmed today that they have a dealer license. Current price is $220AUD for board, $200AUD NIStune Software (Individual Users License) and documentation set. Additionally, shipping and transaction fees may apply. Then its just the cost of the tune. Looks like RB25 is supported but not with VCT. Check out the Nistune site, pretty much explains eveything. http://home.aanet.com.au/nistune/ Cheers

Autotech now has Nistune stock ecu chip burning software, behaves exactly like a PFC except a programmable chip gets soldered into the ecu in place of the original before tuning. Unfortunately not fully for R33GTSt - -some restrictions - but just about everything else Nissan with an ecu.

anyone tried using a single AFM on a DETT? engine in question is a 26/30 but only looking for 300rwkw. cheers

Hi Gary Thanks for the tip, it's not something I'd looked into as I'd made my mind up about the GTP ones. I was never going to use the hub locator or studs in a mismatched situation, and either use spacers as a short term option or a blank hat correctly drilled for both, which is my preference. However I am keen to see if I can find some used but sound GTP rotors as I'd like to use spacers initially to see if I'm sold on the 355 disc conversion rather than shell out for new 5000s striaght away. Cheers

I did look at Merc rotors, ML 270 / 400 TD and 430 V8 are 345 x 32, 51mm high and centre hole 67mm but again they're not 355. I decided it was either upgrade to 355mm min or nothing as I already have 324mm Brembos, as well as the previously mentioned popularity advantage of the 355mm rotor. I agree you can get them very cheaply, particularly from o/s. I'm amazed at the low price of replacement OEM euro stuff but beware of their origins and how they might perform if you track them.

mayne

The second tune was done by Ed at Autotech and he was very helpful and aproachable also and he tuned the engine for great torque and mid range power (see picture) - however I wasnt really happy with this tune because a few days after the engine started knocking. In his defense Im pretty sure that I had a partially blocked exhaust system when he tuned it. = 5 / 10 The tune itself was reported to be very good initially ie not short of power or misbehaving. The problem arose after the tune. Sorry but I don't see why you don't think the tuner should have seen a problem that wasn't there when he tuned it.

Yes, 355 mm DBA 5000s with undrilled hats. Discs I considered: GTR height 53.75mm centre 68 pcd 114.3 GTP height 50.5 (355 diam ) centre 71.8 pcd 114.3 larger studs Chrysler SRT 8 height 53.5 mm (360 diam ) centre 72 (32mm thickness, DBA cattledog min 31.8mm. misprint?) centre 72 pcd 115 mm Viper SRT 10 height 59.6 (355 diam ) centre 73.6 C6 Corvette height 45.5 (355 diam) centre 70.7 I assessed the best most commonly available disc for the application is the GTP. The SRT 8 was another consideration due to the similar offset. However, I reckoned DBA would stop making discs for SRTs before the GTP and they are also a slightly different size, whereas I'm likely to be able to adapt another 355mm size disc to the GTP hat as I suspect all 355x32 5000 discs are the same. There is the option of making spacers for the GTP studs and centre hole rather than redrilling but I'd prefer to just get the hats redrilled for $90 / side rather than stuff about with 'bits' and invariably lose one on the garage floor at some stage. GTP 5000 hat and rotor is $525 / side if you don't go to Repco. Cheers

Roy what type of 355s? I'm about to get some brackets made to mount GT-P 355mm 5000s onto a 32 GTR with F50s. They have about 2mm less offset than the GTR disc and I'll order them blank so I can have them redrilled. Happy to come to an arrangement if the specs you have come close. Cheers

red r34 GTT 4 door on canberra ave

like Paul said, and keep topping it up with v power to dilute the 95.

GTR is inherently a better performance car than the Falcon as they didn't have to compromise to build it and that's why they are still able to hold their own. that said, and not withstanding some reliability issues, if you just want something practical and quickish you probably can't go wrong with a Falcon. but seems like you're prepared to let wifey do the sedan thing so the GTR is a good bet as in 4 years time the Falcon will be an old Falcon and the GTR...is still a GTR. Buy wisely and there are bargains to be had in terms of cars with rebuilt motors, steel turbos etc. Buy impatiently and you can end up with a money pit. You might need to spend a little to get it sorted so everything works, remove hicas etc and get attesa working properly, but there is enough knowledge on here with people going through the wringer with theirs that the challenges aren't as bad as they used to be.

Hi Michelle, what times were you posting on those laps? power to you for observing the rules, that what makes the difference between a good and bad track day. cheers

i've used teflon 200 series braided line but only because i've used an RB30 block and the height difference makes using the stock stuff impractical. it was an abosolute pain in the a$$ doing it in the car. absolutely use the stock lines if you can, there is some very remote risk that they can crack from vibration but make sure you use all of the the stock bits and this simply shouldn't happen. if you want to be really safe, get new lines from nissan.

what are you going to do with it? both will probably meet your goals, and once you start modifying the difference between the two is probably negligible. once you even start tuning i'd bet that there's not enough difference to justify the extra cost of the Neo. built properly both will give you 300 rwkw which is quite a bit in a 2wd, getting the cheaper R33 25 will allow you to spend on parts . if you're staying with a stock engine there are probably advantages with the Neo but if parts etc are a problem that's a risk you'll need to consider.

"yeah i know...and a stand alone fuel management system...." that s2k would've died from block porosity soon anough anyway. 75W90 hahahhaha

i've never heard of an RB30 block breaking where an RB26 would've held together. anyone?

can't see manuka from jerra.

hooch