Jump to content
SAU Community

Scooby

Members
  • Posts

    1,947
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by Scooby

  1. PLEASE PM ME IF YOU HAVE ANYTHING.
  2. just took the baffles - flat plates held in by about 10 screws - out of my rb26 cam covers and found some small filters behind them made from what appears to be steel fly wire. they went through someone's parts wash and are now filled with rusty crap to the point i don't want to put them back in. i think they prob work like a mini catch can. can't get new ones, nissan don't have them on ther parts list. if I run a catch can do I need them? cheers
  3. Hi Slither, how's it going with the RB30?
  4. Noooooooooooooo! Only if you are a glutten for punishment, although it does have a hell of a motor. Is it metallic red? If so might be my old one, I think it went to Melbourne.
  5. only the boost controller is still available. sorry not sure if it will suit your PFC.
  6. Hmmm...I can wait. 88 seems big though.
  7. anyone have info on the Crower 2.9 kit?
  8. I was extremely interested in getting my Rb26 manifolds hones as like you guys I see it as a great solution. When UAS posted their flow bench tests on this forum some time ago I replied and asked John to prove that the honing process produced real world ie on-car improvements that justified the cost. Those improvements could be lower/sooner boost, reduced temps, more power or torque - pretty much any of the usual things people look for. Respect to John for agreeing to test them on my car. The idea was for us to come to an agreement about what represents a reasonable improvement, and work out the costs if it didn't produce. Unfortunately the test never went ahead so if anyone has real world results please share them because I'd still like to get it done, but I'm not going to spend $500 because it 'should' work in the real world. Cheers
  9. Hi Snowman, I thought that putting a 4.11 into an R34 would make it really short as from memory the box ratios are shorter in the R34, just more of them. If the intended application you're referring to is track work, that makes sense. Looked into an R34 box with standard diffs once and decided against it as there wasn't much gain in legs overall compared to the standard R32 set up.
  10. The F160 is the problem...hence why the R34 GTR option looks good.
  11. Can someone with a good proven motor please tell me what BE and main clearances are recommend for an RB26/30. N1 pump, ACL race bearings, street and very occasional track use, and rev limit about 7250. Thanks for any help.
  12. Thanks for the responses: ookami; it's an R32 GTR. SteveL; yes the front diff is a problem. using RB26/30 with a 7250 redline so would like to try using extra torque and taller ratios to give it longer legs. In 2wd I couldnt afford the tyres TO4GTR; the 34 GTR ratios look good. It's got to be a signficant difference otherwise it's not worth the effort so the Stagea is probably out. Now to find some 34 GTR centres.... Cheers
  13. if it fits an R32 GTR i'll take it. cheers
  14. Anyone know where I can get some taller diff ratios for a GTR Cheers
  15. so I take it you naysayers would suggest that the 2.8l Z tune is a 'light' truck motor then????? no...really...I think as many people as possible should stay with the RB26; that way if a 3l should drop to 5 cyl on the track the driver can hear the buzzing of a 9K rpm RB26 coming up behind them. not to mention that you're doing your part for aftermarket sellers in this country what with parts that either grenade or need replacing when they live at those rpms...cams, clutches, oil pumps, gears, bearings... then there's the fitness advantage to an RB26. a part flies a long way when it lets go at 9K rpm - even if its flight is impeded by the block - so it's a long walk home, and even longer if it flies in the opposite direction and you have to go pick it up. slither I assume you know about the pdf FIY guide for rb30 conversions? take your time and it will come together nicely, just don't get frustrated by the little detail things as they make the difference between god/dog installation. sorry if i'm teaching you to suck eggs. are you getting a new rad because your old one is buggered? what ecu are you running? cheers
  16. Hi Michael, thanks for talking us through this mate, it's invaluable. re the 'threaded part' snapping off, can i ask what caused it? Cheers
  17. any idea what the damping rates are?
  18. sorry to hear that R33 racer, like everyone else i'm keen to know what happened. i have a new N1 sitting on the bench ready to bolt on; having read SKs post in the 'N1 killed my motor' thread and knowing Cubes has 45k km on his made me breathe a little easier but still i'm concerned. AFAIK SK is running a wet sump on the engine he's building atm, with an N1 pump.
  19. curious. i would recommend pressing the studs out, your wheels bearings will not thank you otherwise. any sign of damage to the other wheel nuts? may be that last time you got new tyres some monkey with a rattle gun cross threaded them and then torqued them to within an inch of their life and cracked and just fell out, but it's still really strange. i'm surprised that it made a noise though, wheels will hold on with only two nuts sometimes as it's the hub that takes the weight, the nuts just hold the wheel to it. noise usually means the wheel is loose. as nik says poor fitting spacers will also kill them. i'd check the other nuts out, seems almost as though someone is playing a nasty trick.
  20. the Revesby one is correct
  21. you might just need to get used to modulating the braking a bit better now you have something that's good but i'd say either; tyres. if they are as bad as you say then they will not be your friend. suspension. what are your spring and rebound rates? if the are too hard they will really hurt braking performance as the tyre/rim will have a tendency to skip between bumps in the road rather than grip.
×
×
  • Create New...