gslrallysport

Hey all, I hold a National Rally Licence, and have used it to compete in everything from club level motorkhana's, right up to rounds of the Australian Rally Championship. Over a L2S, its basically a couple of observed driving tests, an online test, and about $150! Nothing too difficult!

Hey, i know its a while, but do you know what part number these were and the price you paid? Cheers

Hey ya'll! Some of you might remember roil from way back! Anyways, i've got a heap of old stock i'm willing to clear at below retail cause i've been told there's new labelling coming in... Roil Performance (ebay link) Those involved in the testing program will remember it well... anyways, for the rest of you here's the direct link: Skylines Australia Roil Test For the moment my ebay rating doesn't allow me to do multiple items, so if anybody wants them let me know, you can either bid for it on ebay, or i'll do 'buy it now' for $45 plus postage, just pm or email me: [email protected] For those who dont wanna go to ebay (and i just read its against the forum rules anyway....), i've included a complete quote below... Cheers, Greg

WTF??? Yep.. i'm with you hrd... diameter definately effects leverage, which is inversely proportional to the pressure required.... i never claimed bigger brakes weren't a good thing, but i think wot adam was trying to say was in most circumstances tyres are generally the weak link to begin with... my two cars weigh 800 and 900kg, both have pads rated to 650 degrees, and both run RBF600 brake fluid, so for everything i do (rally and circuit) my brakes are fine, and in my case, tyres are always the weak link... i agree with everything that's been said (well.. except grog)... but i was supporting adam in wot he was saying about tyres... btw, for the record.. my grandma's car running yoko slicks pulled this from 100k's... so don't tell me tyres aren't a factor.... time accel accel distance (s) (m/s^2) (g) (m) 2.43 11.43 1.17 33.75 2.51 11.07 1.13 34.86 2.43 11.43 1.17 33.75 2.33 11.92 1.22 32.36

WOW! Alot of marketting jargon.. but not a real load of proof.... Wot adam is debating is whether bigger brakes stop a car quicker FROM COLD!!! So by saying that "more spots will stop you quicker", you've pretty well admitted that your ordinary brakes can't lock the tyres... which by all standards.. a Kia Pregio pick up van can... In a one off stop the weak link isn't overheated brakes, its underperforming tyres... its after a few stop that bigger brakes will start to perform better... you've clearly got no idea of some basic concepts (like whether or not standard brakes can lock tyres), so i don't really think its worth adam's or mine time debating a rather pointless subject... Initial brake performance is determined by two things... 1. Weight distribution vs brake bias, and 2. The tyres! Repeated brake performance come down to the ability to disperse heat, ie, bigger brakes, bigger rotors, higher grade fluid... You go off and get some nice fancy 8 pot N1 spec callipers, but when i can beat you in a buzzbox running racing slicks, don't wet your pants... BTW, when you find a car, with standard brakes, that can't lock the wheels, let me know... its some pretty basic concepts, if your cruising down the highway at 100k's+, and you want to stop ASAP, wots the weak link, tyres or brakes???

Adam, your correct in what your saying about, from cold, more pots WONT stop you faster if you can already undo your tyres... for all those who reckon their bigger brakes stop cars quicker, its more likely that you hadn't changed your brake fluid in the five years previous... On a strip, wow to go, a detom with standard brakes on slicks will outbrake ANY skyline here running road tyres... on a track, lap after lap, it'll change, but for those who believe "more pots stop you faster", then you've really got no idea...

yeah just wondering, cause its a pain in ass ordering with paper forms

Knore... i've had awesome results in some of the early model honda autoboxes, which seem to have developed a really bad tendency to slip, but other than that, i've delt mainly with street and race manuals boxes, if you give it a go, be sure to let us know how it goes. I'm in brisbane too if you wanted to chat or catch up. Bass, have you got NOL online ordering set up?

yeah.... not really i could do free shipping (which costs 10 bucks express post), but that's the closest... Alternatively, speak to Bass Junky, he's in melbourne to, and a distributor now aswell...

Definately!

Yeah definately, out of everything roil probably has the most research and trials conducted on big trucks... By far the best results roil's had is in the typically notchy scania gearboxes... There's a heap of info relating to trucks and hydraulics if you'd like me to send you some, just pm me... but yeah, a heap of sensors and the like would certainly go a long way to proving its worth...

Yeah, that's cool, just checking it all went through ok....

Yeah, i was supposed to be, but i had to work Do you know when the next one is Ska?

Bass, did you get a whole heap of junk sent out to you?

Hey i'm back... sorry.... Roil, although effective once oil has been changed, eventually the results will degrade, if you left it for 50000k's and 10 oil changes, i doubt there'd would be much left... Having said that roil isn't an additive, and as such conditions the metal directly, so who knows.... put it this way, there haven't been too many people that i've dealth with personally (ie, not on a bulliten board) that have stopped using it once they've started, so basically the results speak for themselves... Abo Bob, it doesn't always get more fuel effecient, often performance gains like extra boost offsett any potential benifts, but the fact that your engine is running quieter is proof that its running smoother, with less friction, and subsequently less wear and tear... which is good!

How'd it all go?

For those who wanted to know wot roil contains, and if it contain parfins, chlorines etc... here's an Material Safety Data Sheet for it.... http://www.trisaac.com/regeneration/roil_gold_msds.htm