drunkenmaster

Thanks guys

Guys, Does anyone know someone in VIC with the experience/facility to remap the RB20DET ECU in real time? I think this may be the only way to get my RB30DET passed engineering. Thanks.

Hehe, beleive it or not thats what I meant. :wassup: FWIW I dont read HPI :headspin:

Just remember with 30 year old cars, there is a lot more to it the fitting the motor. Body work and rust panel replacement being expensive and time consuming.

Thanks for the link! I doubt I would sell the sump off a motor I was selling though. Are there any dedicated Nissan wreckers/RB motor specialists/Z wreckers about? Hopefully somewhere between Nagoya and Tokyo?

guys, after spending quite some time wading through yahoo auctions like an illiterate person in a library, could someone give me a heads up on where in Japan would be my best bet, online or not, to find a 200ZR sump? Thanks James

Not larger, just greater resolution. Only required for big power when you max out your AFM and your EFI system can no longer accurately tell how much air is entering the motor. Not really to do with power, rather A/F ratio

Take you sub out of the box all together and play it and you will find it makes no noise. Put it in a poorly made or incorrectly sized box and it will make some noise. Put it in a well made box of correct size to suit the speaker specs and it will make the best sounding and most noise. i.e. make sure your install and box are up to scratch before throwing more money on more parts. The volume required for a ported box will be different from the volume of a sealed box for the same speaker. There is also more to it then drilling a hole, you have port size and length to contend with. Speaker specs are there for a reason and your box should be built with them in mind otherwise you are just wasting your time and money, there is no one size fits all.

Well I just thought it would be easier to answer peoples questions rather than log on every day to say he cant answer them because he doesnt log on every day.?

you have checked on a daily basis and posted since you initiated the thread

hehe...if it worked in your doors, logic would tell you it would work on anything else vibrating also wouldnt it? If you add weight to anything it will reduce the movement. Also add a rubber foam dampener as suggested above to soften the impact, but both is best.

engine sensors and loom?

well, if you shorted any wires together in your install you could have burned out your rheostat. Not sure how they are wired in the skylines.

This'll do for now. I dont know what you guys are doign with them over there

There are a few more if people are interested and if this is forum appropriate :angel:

ok, will do tomorrow....dont have an resizing software on my work PC since MS Image editor died.

Just turn the electrics on, you should hear the fuel pump whir as it pressurises the system, well, on the old cars anyways. Like i said, I am not sure about newer skylines etc. This is just my logic as well, I have no confirmation or resources that tell/told me to do this Maybe one of the mechanically trained members can shed some light?

I looked it up and I think it had just finished on Sunday, sorry for the bad info. I can post pics of the promo girls if it will make you feel better

Not much help but if you have time and its still on, go to the Tokyo Motor Show. Yokohama tyres girls.....oh my god they were fine

did you use a multimeter to identify the wires? If not, now would be a good time. First things first you have to find the bad fuse, one must be gone somewhere, sometimes it is hard to see, swap them with your spares on by one with the deck off.

Find what is making the noise and do one of two things. Use something to absord the energy between 2 rattling items. Use something to add weight to the moving item or both. If you can identify where the noise is, it will be easy to solve, do not use expanding foam.

dont get drawn into the marketing hype, 150Wrms is more then enough to get the subs moving. Focus on the quality of the box to make the best of the equipment you have chosen.

well, with subs in parallel this is what your amp will be doing: 310 Watts RMS @ 2 ohms Build a good box and see how you go.

I am sure it was here, bl4ck32 commented as well i beleive in the thread. Or maybe it was late and i am going crazy.

In one of my Z's i used to prime the fuel pump before the first start after this to cycle the fuel around and get rid of air let into the system. Not sure if it is the same on the skyline or even necessary at all, but I do it.