MSPEC

For now I have notified the admins. japp_imports seems to be logging onto the forums, he just wont reply to my PM messages.

Thanx Geoff, I just got the old one welded up and it did the trick!

Yahoo seems to know what a header is ... just spoke to a guy in the know and he says the real name is HEADER, exhaust manifold is another word to describe it. However, Header is used to distinguish it from an inlet manifold! http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/imag...mg-t&fl=0&x=wrt

Yeah sorry that’s what I meant, anyway point is I was sent the wrong thing and that’s not really a big deal. However, the guy that sent the wrong thing and made the mistake is unwilling to take it back!

They are the same thing yeah? Header, Manifold, Extractor? I believed “Manifold” to be more of a generalization such as Throttle Body Manifold and so on. Question was however can an Exhaust Header be confused with a Dump Pipe?

I am just wondering if anyone else besides “japp_imports“, would mistake a standard R33 dump pipe for an exhaust header? Roughly 3 weeks ago now I created this thread specifying that I am after a “Standard Exhaust Header” to suit an R33 Skyline, more specifically an RB25DET. Now just moments after this thread was posted the user that goes by the name “japp_imports” sent me a PM telling me he had a Standard Exhaust Header for sale. He then said that this part would cost me $50 + $20 for shipping OVER NIGHT. This sounded like a good deal to me so I went ahead and wired the money. This took place Monday, japp_imports confirmed that the payment was received and informed me that the part would be shipped out Tuesday morning and since I paid him for overnight shipment it should have arrived Wednesday. To cut a long and painful story short the part did not arrive until Tuesday (next week) and even then I had to go and fetch it from TNT. When picking up the “Standard Exhaust Header” I noticed the packaged was about three times to small. Believe it or not the guy that calls himself “japp_imports” sent me the Standard R33 Dump Pipe. Okay so I have waited over a week for the wrong part and have had no car in this time. I was not about to get pissed off with japp_imports over this, despite it being his fault. Therefore I rang him and explained that he sent the wrong part. Again cutting another long and painful story short Mr. “japp_imports” argued that what he had sent was the “Standard Exhaust Header”. I corrected him and explained that this was in fact a Dump Pipe and cannot be mistaken as a Header. He then tried to tell me this mistake was my fault. This didn’t go down well and I asked that he return my $70 in full and I would return the Dump Pipe. This would of course put me out of pocket as I would get my $70 back, but would have to then pay to ship the dump back. Typically, japp_imports decided to screw me around some more and requested that I send the dump back and he will send just $50 of my money back. I don’t know how this scenario came about but its bull shit. Lets be honest $70 is nothing, well its $70 really. But that’s not the point, this guy fu$#*ed me around for over a week and now he wont give me my money back despite being such an insignificant amount. Anyway, I just want to know what someone else thinks ... is an Exhaust Header a Dump Pipe?

Pretty sure the only (well major) problem is your rubber, what are you using? I was using Falken’s and they cornered like crap, now I use Michelin SP Pilots and they stick very well. If anything I have over-steer with them

My RB25DET Exhaust Header has cracked in half Does anyone have this item for sale?!?!?

I put heavy duty clamps around it for now to stop it from being crushed. I am getting a steel pipe made up by a mate as we speak

Problem solved, don’t all put your hands up at once Its was the rubber inlet pipe, the thing was closing in on itself!

Cut out problem... I have just bolted a HKS 2535 turbo onto my RB25DET, anyway long story short it makes 233rwkw’s on 12psi. The car was going great for about a day, now it seems to randomly cut out. When I put the boot into it the engine will cut out anywhere from 4~8k revs, generally this happens at 6000 revs. The wired thing is if I warm the car up for 20 mins and then take it for a hard run the car will rev every gear out up to 4th without a problem. Then on the second run it will cut out in every gear. Basically the cut out stops the engine from revving and it pretty much goes dead silent. Once I release the accelerator I hear the air rush back out the air pod and the car comes back to life. If I put my foot down again it will go but usually cuts out again. I have been avoiding doing so, as it could be leaning out. The possible fixes I have tried so far are, replace fuel filter (mine was rooted but replacing it didn’t help). I checked the fuel pump and pickup in the fuel tank but both seemed okay. All the obvious air hoses and things like that have been checked. I even bought a Z32 AFM as I read on the forums the standard R33 AFM can play up with over 230rwkw’s. However, I am yet to put this on and get a re-tune as the tuner does not believe this to be the problem. He suggested I check the fuel pump which I did tonight. Basically I am out of ideas and the AFM was my last hope. If anyone has experienced a similar problem let me know what the deal was ...

Should make a sticky thread warning all Skylies Australia users!!!

Thanx that was what I wanted to hear, I needed someone to talk me out of it 25/35 it is!

Yeah well this tuner did buy two and said they wher sh!t Which sux because I really would have liked a cheap solution. Anyway, you are right if it makes okay power and aint too laggy and lasts at least a year then its okay value.

If it lasts a few weeks I cant see you getting what you paid for mate I was told to spend twice as much and get a real turbo, new GT25/35...

Did anyone end up getting one of these? I have been asking around and spoke to a very well know, well respected tuner. He tells me that these turbo’s use old school technology making them quite laggy and so on. Anyway, I have been advised against getting one but I was just interested to see if anyone actually bought one of these turbos?

Yes, I though the exact same thing when I saw that what a joke and now they say there gear is from the USA when it was originally from Japan.

was only running 14psi, guess ATP is just dodgy, how do you really know what they replace. A friend in the know recons they didn't replace the thrust bearing and thats why the compressor wheel pulled itself out!

Yeah this is what I am worried about, I paid $2K at ATP for a high-flow that lasted 10,000k's.

They have a website now ... they have to crazy stuff really cheap ... anyone bought stuff from them yet? http://www.Toofast2furious.com/

I knew it had to be a fuse; it’s the only thing that could make sense. Just after I made the post on SAU I went back out and had a real good look around. Sure enough I found a little fuse box just above the steering in an almost impossible to reach location. One of the fuses was blown, replaced it and car started right up. Thank god I didn’t tow it to a sparky Thank for the help mate.

Okay here is the quick and less painful version of my dilemma. Yesterday I was fixing some of the dodgy wiring in my car, most of it was done successfully HOWEVER. As I was about to pack up I found three wires just sitting in the engine bay doing nothing. They didn’t look right so I proceeded to wrap them up in electrical tape just to be safe. This is where the pain begins. When cleaning up these wires I believe two of them touched but I’m not 100% sure about this. Anyway, the point is the alarm sounded three times and since then has made no other noises. The car no longer starts and all I hear is the loud arse fuel pump firing up. I am at a loss as to what to do next, I think my best bet is to get a professional alarm guy to check it out. In the mean time does anyone have any ideas or know where I can download some info on the Warlock War 5500 car alarm?

I am lost mate PM me Ohh yeah i own an import Thats my car as the avatar

Yeah at this stage I don’t really car if it comes on at 2700 RPM or 3700 RPM, just want to know if they are the real deal. Too many shit hi-flowed turbos never see over 10,000k’s and I wasted $2000 on one once after it was highly recommended to me through people I trusted. At this stage a new HKS 25/35 seems like the safest option at $2000!

yeah you forgot = no number plates