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yeah my car did that when it was ignition timing... it sucked. just wondering whether a collapsed muffler or blocked muffler would create the same issue... ? *shrugs*

hmmm that kind of reminds me how a lot of people (that have no idea about skyline models and their engines) will ask 1. Is it a GTR? 2. (doesnt matter what answer you gave before whether its a GTST or GTR) Is it Twin Turbo? When you say "single turbo" they look all disappointed haha. I had this one chick say "yeah i am going to get a 180sx because they are faster than silvias and skylines" i was dumbfounded at this, mainly because she said it was faster than a silvia... because they are the same fcuking car. Then she went onto say "I am going to get a double turbo... because they are faster" which i replied "so then why do people chasing big power usually go for a large single turbo setup instead of twin turbo?" I fcuking hate tards like this... regardless that she was female, males are just as bad - no clues, but will not back down from retarded statements and demand that they are right. Never argue with a retard, they will drag you down to their level, and beat you with experience.

it depends where the sensor is.... my friends R33 has had 2 different ECUs in it (both aftermarket)... the operating temperature on the first ecu read quite low... in the mid 70s.... on the current ecu, it reads higher operating temperature being in the mid to low 80s. The ecu was the only thing changed no changing of coolants or radiators... so i think its mainly where the sensor is placed or something. But yeah... i think its just important to know where the danger levels are and to steer clear of them. If my car gets up to 100deg in traffic on a hot day... i will put the heater on, its a bit of discomfort to me, but i dont mind, i'd rather that than damage something. Wacking the heater on will usually bring it down to 94-96deg... this will vary ofcourse depending on the car and the radiators and the fans used. In some cars i've used, switching on the aircon can lower temperatures as well if it gets too hot. I think i read somewhere that in the R32s (assuming it would be the same as the R33s) when it reaches a certain temperature it will switch the AirCon fan on automatically for increased airflow.

When its 'struggling' Is it running really rich and pouring black smoke out of the exhaust? Does it backfire? Does it clear up after 5000rpm? I have had problems like this constantly over a range of cars with different things being the problem. Once my car was really really sluggish down low and up top it was 'ok' but didnt go like it should. Turned out my ignition timing was retarded 12degrees or something like that. Once it was my Fuel Regulator Twice it was my Crank Angle Sensor (but when my crank angle sensors went it was way worse - car would shut off and not turn back on) Spark plugs leads once caused my car to freak out a bit. You have to do a bit of problem determination here = oh yeah, and my mate had this problem as well, he did a reshell and somewhere along the lines when the place was fitting his engine, they put oil in the engine.... but it already had oil in it. The car backfired, ran like absolute crap, very sluggish... absolutely offensive. It had 8 litres of oil in it. haha.

i have a water temp readout on my hand controller and the temperature ofcourse varies. If i am moving the temperature can be as low as 74deg (i have quite a substancial aftermarket radiator) 85degrees is fine, i wouldnt be concerned about that at all. When i am stopped in traffic on a hot day (25deg+), the temperature will rise up to around 102deg. I would start stressing if my water temp got to around 120degrees... but i'd never let it actually reach that heh. Concerning Oil Temps... i am unsure, i dont have a oil temp gauge and i havent looked into correct operating temperatures. But good move buying these gauges, they give you useful knowledge - i've had my car up to around 109degrees in water temp, and the stock gauge doesnt even move and just reads normal.

mmm i think you don't understand my meaning of 'equivalent' I am just saying, the aussie sedan of choice here is either the commodore or the falcon. And in Japan, Nissan has the equivalents being skyline/cefiro as a popular car of choice. I am not comparing boot space... just popularity in their home countries. plus, its the internet - relax.

its ok, you must have sand in your vagina.

heh my friends had chips, but they were time-bomb chips so i wont mention where they were from. Just go to a specialist like Chiptorque or something... or even a mechanic with a high reputation in tuning Nissans. I can suggest Amberley Autos in Dandenong ProTek in Thomastown

I would say thats pretty much correct.... Its the japanese equivalent to the australian commodore... except its not crap with ecogay v6.

Hi Roy, Thats Matt's car you would have seen at Centreline getting extensive suspension mods. I have a Black R32.

Sounds like your car is coming along nicely. I would have to agree with your mate concerning the stock clutch, i wouldnt expect it to hold up for long, start saving for a new one. I have an RB20 with similar mods to you. I run GTR Injectors as well, the fuel rail was modified slightly and my ECU has the ability to run at different impedence. I dont know a whole lot concerning the impedence rates etc and what they did but it works fine and wasnt a hassle (i run a LINK ecu). What i would strongly suggest to you, is that you install the ecu and injectors at the dyno place. When we put my injectors in, the car ran super super super rich, black smoke coming out of the exhaust etc, and the tuner is only 10mins from the workshop so it was ok... but your 4 hours away. Just be careful when it concerns fuel mixtures because if its too lean it will sh1t itself, and if its too rich well... that just sucks, its not too healthy. These are just precautions though... but you do have to drive for 4 hours. I would hate to see you spend cash on these mods, and then be set back by a blown motor when u wack them on. Good Luck =)

mine is set to 7850rpm. I have an aftermarket ECU where you can set the rev limiter, and its interesting to see because its set at 7850rpm, but the tacho will go past 8000rpm, meaning the tacho obviously doesnt read 100% true... I know people who have set their rev limiter to 8,200 on RB20s... but i dont see the point in doing that, 7850rpm is the stock rev cut, so i just leave it there =)

heh, i agree man, the r32 is the king ! feels much more nimble to me than the r33s/r34s do. Its just a shame the rb20 is so gay. Its like a honda engine heh. Meh its not that bad, i mean my car only makes serious power at 6000rpm, like really starts moving then... it makes power before hand but its true power is really late in the rev range... and if i drop below 4500rpm... forget it... i have to add in a filthy clutch dump to keep the revs up there.

Control boost with your right foot and stop being temptations bitch. I've never heard anyone say " i want to run 0 psi " hahaha

I think it sounds like a clutch as well. I have had coil pack problems. it was easy to pick because my car sounded like a WRX, and face it, no one wants that. On startup and idle, it would fire on 5 cylinders and the note of the exhaust was changed (sounded like a wrx) sometimes it would be fine and happen when driving, but there was no hard and fast rule as to when the coil pack would stop working. With you though, your saying it happens in 4th/5th when you load it up, it revvs higher but doesnt go faster... that definitely sounds like a clutch issue to me. When was the last time the clutch was replaced? Unfortunately there is only one true way to see how worn your clutch is...

hey man, if that to you was perfection, then i think you should aim for that ! Its what suits you at the end of the day. The rb25 would feel much better in terms of driveability and when the torque curve begins. It sounds like you are very keen on this Rb25 conversion - so go for it !.... either that or buy an R33 =) heh.

200rwkw roughly. we are not especially kind to our boxes... the cars are used for drift therefore have to cope with 3rd gear clutch dumps, rarely compression locks and other things as you can imagine. Its the input shaft that goes bung on them =

Hi Adam, this is the first post i've seen people saying they want to build a spaceship on a budget. heh. 250rwkw on an RB20 on a budget i would shy away from that figure. Talking stock RB20 engines, that sh1t is not happening, and if it does, it wont last for long. 200rwkw is acheivable and can be made with reliability. You will need to look at the following: - Full Exhaust system from turbo back, with minimal restriction and 3" in size or larger. - Injector upgrade (GTR injectors will go into an rb20) - Fuel Pump upgrade (Dont fcuk around with fuel delivery, when you have a powerful car you need a lot of fuel being pumped in, and in a reliable fashion, so turf the stock pump asap. If you want to boost your car, i would be putting a fuel pump in before i raise boost levels) - Turbo upgrade (something with steel wheels - ceramic sucks, look at hybrid combinations or something that is rated to 300hp) - Replacement ECU (look at PowerFC, Motec, Link... cheaper alternative is getting Apexi piggy backs) - Front Mount Intercooler (get something thats proven and flows well, like any Skyline GTR FMIC, or ARC cooler, TRUST etc, do not go near cut down truck cores that look like a fridge, as thin as a4 paper and are as long and high as your front bar) - Boost Controller - Heavy Duty Clutch - Cold Air Intake (can be done yourself, just dont be a butcher) - Pod Filter with Heat Shield - Remove your aircon - Run a thermo fan These things will help you achieve the 200rwkw mark. Ofcourse the figures will change from dyno to dyno... there are sh1tloads of what i call "Disney Dynos" out there that pump out these stupid power figures and insane torque figures from relatively stock cars, its just a guide really... those upgrades will enable you to pump most cars on the road and torch the tyres in 2nd gear, and i think thats all you want to acheieve =) Power and Cheap do not really go hand in hand. My experience is, pay the correct cost to get things done properly. This in turn means less maintenance in the future. Maintenance is the killer on performance cars which is why i think that the 'cheap' word cannot come into the equation. Changes = Problems = Cash =) Good Luck

I have an R32 GTST as well, and i have smashed 2 gearboxes, and all my other mates with R32 GTST's have smashed the same amount if not, more. The Rb20 boxes are GAY and are the weak link. Getting an R33 box is the way to go, definitely hook that up. Put an Rb25det box in there, and get the tailshaft fabricated and you will be loving it. What i would be afraid of, is putting an Rb25 in my car, modding it, then busting the engine... i would be p1ssed because rb25s are a lot more expensive than RB20s. We've bought Rb20 motors for $600 and thats an aspect i love about the engine ! =) If i were you: definitely put an RB25 box in it Turbo Upgrade ECU upgrade Injectors Dump/Front Pipe You will see the 200rwkw mark and thats quite a bit of power, and if it busts its not that much to replace it with another RB20. RB25s in standard form (not talking about the neo engine here) have never stood out to me, i've had many friends who have busted rb25 engines with minimal mods. To me it sounds like your on a budget because you can either do one or the other... think about "what if it sh1ts itself" can you afford to wack another RB25 in it?

The variety of wheels in that pic are sweet, except for the 1st set (top left) the BBS Mesh looking ones... I say that only from a maintenance point of view. My cars look clean if the rims are clean and free of brake dust and dirt... the wheels i have at the moment are a c**t to clean because they have too many spokes... i like wheels with FAT spokes, they look tough and they are easy to clean. I hate spending 30mins alone cleaning my wheels, it sucks.

Jeremy is fat, and his hair is curly like pubes. so fcuk him.

mmm that brakes exploding thing is doing my head in... i dont understand that at all = Agreed that a lot of people have skylines, but its for a reason - they are decent cars - 5 billion p platers cant be wrong. the torque thing i agree with when it comes to the RB20... i cant stand the torque curve of the Rb20 motor, but they are quite robust and cheap to replace....

i like the Volk TE37s... they look great on 32GTRs... Otherwise Work Meister's, R33 GTR, R34 GTR...

why would they do that? i thought the paint on my doors was just normal.

skylines suck