aKTiVE

yeah since you've looked at all those other areas... i'd look at fuel pump and fuel filters, maybe also fuel regulator. Does your car blow any black smoke when its hesitating? Let us know what the results were.

i have a set of Tein HR Shocks and Springs, suit a R32 GTS-T selling $1000. Pm if interested.

I recently blew the manual box in my r32. :Bang: realising the rb20 boxes are nothing short of pissweak, i am looking to upgrade to the rb25 box. Hopefully someone can shed some light on my question, What are the ratios in the RB25DET manual gearbox? What do they compare like to the Rb20DET gearbox ratios? Will it screw up driveablity (low down power). Rb20s are laggy enough as it is... Thanks =)

my rb20 gearbox decided to pack it in on the weekend, as the topic states, i am looking for an RB25DET Manual 5 Speed Gearbox. I am in melbourne. PM me if you have one for sale

i have a set of Tein HR's if your interested? send me a pm if u are =)

I had a turbosmart bleedvalve, and then later on had an electronic solenoid hooked up to it and a hi/lo boost switch inside my cabin. It worked great, and held boost fine, on cold nights (say around 12degrees) it would spike about 3psi. If you have a boost gauge, look at it and keep an eye on it. But generally if your saving for modifications, its probably wise to save up and do them properly, instead of boosting your car, damaging something, and then not having cash to do anything. But if you have your heart set on it, do it! =) I would check the health of your turbo before running higher boost, and i would do this simply by checking the wheel for movement (in and out is what scares me). Should be ok tho! i am just weary of ceramic turbos and raising boost. We took a standard r33 to sydney and boosted it silly, we were running around 17-18psi constantly... it lasted a fair while... i think about 3 days. hehehe. But yeah as these guys said, 10psi should be ok... 12psi is the max i'd run. I would set it to 9psi-10psi, that way if it does spike, it wont be spiking to dangerzones unless something is severely wrong.

i have dabbled in this area a little bit... how to get the 'sickest cooler dose'. There is a constant debate as to whether removing all bovs will damage/reduce the life of your turbo... but basically its up to the owner whether they think its wise or not... Anyway, on all of my cars that were turbo charged, it became obvious to me the piping/cooler size/turbo/air filter would depend on the sound of the 'flutter'. Decent sized cooler piping, aftermarket fmic and a pod filter will amplify the sound.... but the ONE mod to me that made the sound very loud, was removing the standard plastic piping from the turbo to the airfilter/pod to a steel pipe... I usually have bovs on my car, but they are tightened up to the sh1thouse. So 10psi and under it will flutter, and then when you release the throttle on full boost, it will flutter and bov simultaneously... sounds great =)

i am interested in the gearbox. i am in victoria... pm me with a price if you can!

ahaha, yeah i blew my box on sunday morning. 2nd gear would always crunch when downshifting... and now =((((

lifters? i had an intermittant buzzing noise... and that was my boost controller on the fritz...

I had a VL Turbo, as did some of my friends. One of them ran an 11.97 on a standard engine with bolt ons and standard computer. I dont think a aftermarket computer is totally necessary with these cars unless u want to go super fast. Mine put out around the 250rwkw mark and would have been capable of more if i installed an aftermarket computer. Now that they are getting on in age, a rebuild is probably wise as the engines are getting a little tired. I gave mine a freshen up with a complete engine rebuild (top&bottom end) and used ACL pistons and it ran 18psi all day everyday and was a daily driver. The manual MX7 gearboxes are extremely tough provided they are maintained properly, i never had any problems with mine and nor did my friends who ran constantly at heathcote/calder park with a lot of horsepower running through them. Automatics... if left standard they wouldnt cope with a lot of power... my friends standard vl turbo running 12psi with a supra cooler, the auto box held up for about 6 months with a bit of abuse... on the other hand you could go a trimatic or a jatco 4 speed, in my experience the trimatics held up a lot better. It depends whether you want fast times or not (obviously automatics will provide you with better times). Some people replaced the manual MX7 gearboxes with supra gearboxes, i didnt think too much of this as they kept breaking these boxes, i'd look into the ability to fit an RB25DET gearbox. Concerning turbos, once again i think this will depend on whether you go manual or automatic... if you go automatic and have a decent stall converter in it, a t04 will be ok... I had a T3/T4 hybrid turbo on it and it was great (built by ATP) as lag is a big concern for me. I have been in near standard vl turbos that have T04s in them (a bt1 with a cooler and manual) and it only made decent boost at 4000rpm, and then having to shift at 6000rpm, so you have 2000rpm of decent power and when you change gears you were out of boost, so it was an absolute pig. Make sure you have the correct turbo combination on your car, bigger is not necessarily always better, useable power is the key. Common modifications on a VL Turbo to get yourself into the low 12s high 11s mark: Fuel Pump t3/t4 hybrid turbo 3" exhaust from turbo back intercooler decent clutch (heavy duty or button) you can keep the standard 3:4.5 gear ratios in the diff, but 3.9s or 4.11 will definitely help. cold air intake (the standard airbox works well, just cut a hole in the bottom of it and feed the cold air intake into this) extra injector or bigger injectors Cam Catch can Thats all i can think of for now... these arent massive modifications, and all the times that my friends ran were on slicks and using aviation fuel and soft springs in the rear end. a T04 depending on the type and the condition its in can run a fair amount of boost, it just depends on your engine - what condition is your engine in and can it handle large amounts of boost. Hope this helps some what.... =)

the hazard lights work fine... so yeah this is why i was thinking it could be the switch....

i have an r32 skyline, the indicators were working fine and then stopped working all together, now only the right hand indicator works, and sometimes it will only signal the rear right hand indicator. I checked all the fuses and they are all fine, i was thinking it could be the switch on the indicator stalk? Has anyone else had this problem or know what it could be? Thanks.

I have a viper alarm system as well, it came with the car when i bought it. The keypad has 4 different buttons on it, and remote start is apparently one of the features with this alarm but it has not been enabled apparently because the nissans cant support it and it over cranks... is this true? can anyone else back up this statement?

gts-t or gtr?

any GTR injectors for sale??