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yeah damn.. ! i would hope its not a cracked head / head gasket - but thats the general direction i would be looking.

do you run aftermarket ecu?

yeah, the rb20 sucks down low... they only start to make some power at 4000rpm, and then sing at 6000rpm+

ahahaha my thoughts exactly. It wears off when you start filling up once a day and realise that its a crock.

mmm i got my friend Sard 550cc injectors for an Rb25 for $600 (New in Box & incl. shipping from Japan) So yeah, you did well !

ahaha SAME! also i keep it at 8000rpm because it makes power to there and when i shift gears it brings me closer to my peak torque curve for the next gear. If it didnt make power up there tho and i had a larger midrange i would make the redline like 7500...

well... what happens to the variable valve timing when you start modifying your car extensively? Pretty much becomes irrelavant. I was speaking to Jarus from D1 NZ who came down and had a drive in our last Drift Competition and he competes in a Nissan Cefiro with an Rb25DET running rb20 ecu and he says it works a treat.

hmm thats really strange... i have had a 'similar' problem but not as extreme in 2 of my cars.. when doing a relatively high speed, if i held the throttle in one position, to maintain a certain speed the car would seem to get confused between cruising at speed and being in the torque curve and where boost comes in with a punch.. if i then stabbed the throttle it would accelerate fine, if i let off it would be fine too. It was extremely strange... i put it down to ECU getting a bit temperamental, i changed my fuel filters as well just incase. Yours seems a bit more severe though because its doing it at 60kmh... I dont know whether it could be starving of fuel or what, but it sort of seems like fuel surge. Could you change your fuel filters and have your fuel pump checked out? Does this happen 100% all the time? Or is there an instance where it happens? i.e. In hot weather? Low on fuel? etc..

Hey Shark33. I have had my car tuned by a lot of places. And the best places to go to are. RacePace Amberley Autos (dandenong) ProTek (thomastown) These places are far away from you, but once you go there and get it tuned, you will never have to go back until you do another significant mod. The work done at these workshops is impeccable (at amberleys they even laminate your dyno sheet!) Amberleys and RacePace can be quite expensive, but worth every cent. ProTek charge the usual amount and I have seen great examples and my car is going there in the next 2 weeks.

Nice work man, thats a respectable power figure. The boost dropping off in the higher revvs is a bit of a shame/worry. I'd definitely be looking at the exhaust, but mainly looking at the turbo on it. Finding out whether its shagged, too small, or mismatched hybrid.

a Dump and Front pipe from the turbo to the cat is one of my first mods on a car. I had a significant power increased from doing this modification. So hes in no way talking sh1t to you, i would highly recommend it (get him to punch out your cat as well =) ) However, i think the price he has quoted you is a bit rich. I paid $300 for a stainless steel 3" dump/front pipe for my car. If your able to, you can fit it yourself, but otherwise, i would shop around before spending $500+ dollars for that mod.

i would also start with the fuel pump. As discussed in other threads... popular pump of choice is the Bosch 040 or a GTR pump.

Nice choice mark, you'll love the rb25 =) Young Benny is doing it hey? haha hes a good kid. If you have problems with ECU or something like that... you can run the RB20DET ECU with an RB25DET... you just have to run rb20 injectors and rb20 fuel rail and then you can run the rb20det loom with the rb25 engine. Tailshaft has to be shortened and balanced but it will all work sweet. I'm sure i'll see your car at chasers, good luck with it man.

Dude, thats quite normal - dont stress. Long drive in 'traffic' on hot days, airflow is limited so ofcourse the temperature is going to rise. If you have an FMIC that can dramatically effect the operating temperature of the car, especially when its stopped and no air being force fed into the front of the car. Mine will always get up to 100-102 deg on a hot day in traffic. I would seriously start stressing if the temperature got up to 120deg. When it reaches 100deg, just make sure you dont start thrashing it, when you get moving and constant airflow is going through, you will see the temperature drop. If you get worried about your temperature when it reaches 100deg in traffic, just put the heater on full and the temperature will drop a few degrees... or if you have aircon, wack that on.

We get all our kits done by Ken Streeter. He makes fibreglass kits for most imports, they are excellent in quality. The main reason we go to him is that his kits have a lot of flex... so when/if you hit/touch anything, the kit is more likely to bounce/flex rather than snap. He gave us a demonstration by taking a sideskirt for a 180sx, and bending it over itself. I was impressed =) Details As Follows: Streeter By Streeter Un 1/ 79 Centenary Pl Logan Village 4207 (07) 5546 3033

Agreed, the GTR intercooler is very sufficient, tried/tested/proven so to speak... but i dont know... i think they are quite expensive compared to getting a kit from ARC or something which includes piping and is a bolt on modification for your specific car - new as well. Its been a while since i scouted the market for a second hand intercooler (never looked for a 2nd hand cooler) but the last time i saw a GTR Intercooler for sale it was around the $500 mark... ? are they still the same price?

i have also not run a bov on 3 of my cars. I have covered 60,000 km in one of them, with no bov and running 18psi constantly and never had problems with the turbo. so yeah there you go. It *may* be bad, but how do you tell how much wear and tear it takes out on the turbo if any? I havent had one of my turbos opened up and my turbo builder say "SEE THIS HERE< THIS IS WHERE THE FLUTTER BLEW YOUR TURBO" I've never blown a turbo *touch wood* but they are a part of the car that gets worn over time and needs replacing.

Rb's running on 5 cylinders do not sound healthy... aka. wrx they adopt that burble on idle that is strange and disturbing.

i have heard a LOT of horror stories from people using Walbro pumps, and only 1 or 2 cases of them actually holding up, and more success stories with Bosch pumps...

Its personal preference really.

I have a Tomei pump which is rated to 550hp. A lot of my mates use the Bosch 040 pump - i have also used this pump and it works great (these cars are pushing between 200rwkw and 250rwkw) Try to stay away from Walbro and Holley fuel pumps.

I find the easiest way out.... is just saying "its a Nissan" and "Its standard" i let them talk whatever crap about their car or their cousins car... then line them up =)

yes matts car sounds offensive. I dont think you should bother with his suspension upgrades, they were quite serious... his car was a test pig pretty much, the work they did to it, they hadnt done before, and it cost a fair bit. matt is happy with it though, he hasnt said anything that suggests he isnt happy... so it all works well... i've had a few drives, and its very very nice. (i'm assuming you know its setup for drift... therefore, no traction what so ever) he is running a GT2530 with a dump pipe that has a screamer pipe attached, and a 3" system from there with no restrictions =) STRAIGHT THROUGH.

*shrugs* thats what my mechanic said to me: "i'll need to modify the fuel rail a little bit" I didnt pay for the work done to the car, it was done for free... so i doubt he'd lie about it, but on the same token, he doesnt work on R32s a whole lot, mainly R33s in the Skyline family and if they are R32s they are GTR's... so he may have got it wrong =)

To me it sounds like your trying to gain power with the least amount of attention as possible - want it to be safe for when a cop goes over your car? Wise move. hehe. Panel Filters are good, i've used a panel filter with a modified airbox in larger power applications to give that 'stock' look and feel. Look at doing a larger more direct cold air intake into the bottom of your airbox, and cut a hole in the bottom of your airbox... works a treat and no one can see it.... prolonging you dont use like chrome pipes and stuff... paint everything black ! Dump Pipe, man you shouldnt even be asking if you should do that... JUST DO IT ! i gained a lot of kw from a dump and front pipe, definitely the way to go. Side Mount Intercoolers i am not a fan of really... are you doing the sidemount so that its pretty much unnoticeable? From a few guys here, the power your chasing you don't necessarily have to change this feature... but it would most likely help. an ample front mount will be much better, spray it black and no one will have a clue that you have a front mount.