argh32

The time has come to sell my track car. I am selling as its time to move on to something else rather then pour more money into it. It is running fine at the moment but needs another radiator. The shell is still registerable - No defects since I have owned it and also before then to my knowledge. I'm looking for 10k - byo wheels. I will probably sell the wheels off separate I have to check the sizes and offsets so I don't give misleading info - the offsets are estimates. All wheels are 5h. SSR f5 15x8.5 - 22 pair SSR f5 15x7 -9 pair SSR xr4 15x8.5 -18 pair SSR xr4 15x8 -12 pair SSR xr4 15x8 -12 pair Here's the parts list, I may have missed a few things - Engine r33 s2 rb25det hks 2835 gt-pro with lines sard fpr z32 afm power fc Splitfire coilpacks GTR injectors Bosch 044 external fuel pump with surge tank standard internal fuel pump Oil catch can Battery relocation (brand new battery) fake greddy ffp with throttle body greddy oil cooler with relocated oil filter and grex sandwich plate pwr power steering cooler xmember modded by danny t (power steering rack forward 15mm) Custom Casey Meredith 3 inch turbo back to 4 inch at diff with flex pipe Drivetrain Nismo 2-way lsd rb25det gearbox Exedy HD clutch gtr half shafts Custom 1-piece tailshaft Suspensiom Tein coilovers all round, Height and dampner adjustable (good working condition) Rear LCA's shortened 15mm by danny t hicas lock bar (removed all hicas properly including solenoid) GTR rear subframe GTR rear knuckles Ikeya formula rear UCA's GKtech solid subframe bushes R33 front LCA's Cusco front upper camber arms Modded knuckles s14 steering rack gk tech steering lock spacers gk tech rack end spacers Cusco front strut brace Rear strut brace Whiteline 29mm front sway bar Whiteline 27mm rear sway bar Interior Genuine MOMO deep suede steering wheel and boss kit, ASD hydro with wilwood cylinder GTR passenger seat on standard rails Bride LowMax rep drivers seat, Genuine DEFI cr gauges (oil temp and water sensors are inaccurate and control box wiring is not desirable) Cusco 7 point bolt in cage Body Genuine GTR front bar with lip cable tied on (Lip is rough and bar isn't too bad) Clear lens GTR indicators (they are orange but clear if you know what I mean) Fibreglass GTR front quarters (couple of cracks and modded to suit skirts) vertex style fibreglass skirts (few cracks) Boot with KMAK rocketbunny wing, Genuine Vertex bonnet (few cracks) Type M rear pods Pat 0439 458 958 Car is at the Gold Coast https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lMJNVw5kBDk

bump

For Sale 5 stud conversion - from r32 (everything in the picture) $500 s14a sr20det with intake mani, starter motor, ps pump, coilpacks, fuel rail, injector loom, CAS, mounts and brackets (spun big end bearing) - $400 4x Nismo 555cc side feed injectors - $350ono r32 indicators (mismatched, no internals) - $10 each r32 Dash cluster 174,000km's - $30 r32 Jasma exhuast. no front pipe - $20 SSR mk1 15x8.5 - 22 4h drilled to 5h - $400 Located Loganholme

Did you have pods?

DriftWorks adjustable rear LCA's Location - South Brisbane Price - $250 The information below is from the Driftworks website. This kit fits: Z32 S13 200sx / Silvia / 180SX S14 200sx / Silvia S15 Silvia R32 / R33 / R34 GTSt an GTT Skyline models Adjustable lower control arms feature adjustable track width, roll centre correction, adjustable front bump stop's and rose joints all round. At the shortest setting they're stock S14/R33 length and longest allow for around 50mm increase per side.

I actually have those 266 x 9 rotors. Can you tell me what caliper to use? I am looking to use something that gives me good wheel clearance for some 15 inch ssr mk1s. Thanks for all the good information so far!

Ok I'll have a crack tomorrow and see what happens, thanks for the input! As silly as this may sound to all/most of you - does anyone know of a thinner rotor and caliper that will bolt straight on.. For example r32 non turbo rear brakes or r33 non turbo rear brakes, both drilled to 5 stud? If anyone knows if these or something else smaller than stock will fit without modification I am keen to know Thanks!

Hey guys, I am wanting to know if r32 gtst rear rotors and calipers will fit onto a r32 gtr hub, as I have just installed a gtr subframe into my gtst but I am not using gtr brakes as I don't have them. Thanks in advance

South Brisbane

wow sorry haha, $2000

As the title indicates, I am selling my Workmeister wheels without tyres 4 wheels 18x10 +22 3 piece 5x114.3 Only downside is the rash on the egde of the lip. It is unnoticeable though, and the actual dish and centres are immaculate.

And to make things better - my neighbour gave me a pair of indicators for free!! Today was a good day

Fixed the boost problem.. It was a sneaky leak in the inter cooler piping. Now I just need to drive it for a while and see if any more oil comes up or if the catch can is what I needed to stop it.

Ok yep, that makes sense to me now. This morning I blocked off both the PCV inlet and the turbo inlet and my turbo still stayed at about 8psi max. What should my next move be? Could it just be a lose connection in the intake that I cant find? Would I usually be able to hear the vacuum from a leak?

Ok, yep I know what you mean, I will give that a try tomorrow. Hopefully my setup has caused a leak and this will stop it.. THANKS MATE

Is the PVC valve the inlet on the plenum that I have my red hose on? Sorry for the nub question

But if I only run one line from either the passenger or drivers side cover, won't the other side still be able to put oil into the intake? If I block that one to stop that will it give the motor less room to breathe under higher RPM? Like this - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=220638 That was my train of thought on the catch can situation anyway.

If the turbo seal went, would it cause oil to come into the intake?

Hey guys and girls Hopefully someone can give me a little more guidance here. I have an r32 rb20det track car that I take to Queensland Raceway to drift etc etc.. Basically what happened - I was giving the car a pretty good boot full on the track and came in to cool down a bit. I noticed that there was a little bit of oil coming out of a split in an intake hose onto the tappet covers. When I was driving it I didn't notice any difference in performance or feel. I pulled off the crossover pipe and it had oil in it. I did a compression test with 140-148 results. I installed a catch can today and when I took it for a drive I couldn't get my turbo to reach above 7-8psi. It is usually at about 12psi. There is also a little bit of noise coming from the turbo area. Turbo seals? Turbo is no good? I know I cant really get an accurate diagnosis over a forum, but if anyone can give me some advice it would be much appreciated. Is my catch can setup going to do its job? Cheers

re-check coil packs are fixed properly and check/replace spark plugs would be my first move.

haha I like this guy ^^

Sorry, the clamp does NOT fit. Thanks for the advice, I will give that a try sometime through the week hopefully. I also tried doing mine on ramps, there was enough room but a hoist would definitely be the way to go if I had access to one Cheers

Hey So I bought some second hand whiteline sway bars for my r32 gtst (27mm front, 24mm rear). When I attempted to install the 27mm bar in the front I had issues mounting it. I was told by the guy I bought them off that they would mount with the factory clamps. The issue I am having is that the clamp does seem to fit around the bush. I am also just chasing basic tips on the best way to change my sway bars as I think I made it pretty hard for myself. What part of the bar to fix in place first etc. I would assume it would be easier to change the sway bars when the suspension is loaded, am I right? Thanks in advance for any help

I am chasing a half decent bucket seat or seats, with rails to suit an r32. I would prefer no tears, but I will buy torn ones for the right price. I am located in South brisbane. Cheers

Don't worry, figured it out. Cheers blokes