Philr32

For sale Mount Druitt area: 4 350Z rims in good condition as per pics. Tyres are old so should probably be changed. Asking $350 4 Rotalla F105 in 215/50/17, almost brand new, still have sprues on them. asking $150 Will do a deal if someone wants the rims and tyres.

Haltech cant run twin drive by wire throttles, only 1, may work if you buy 2 haltechs, one fro each bank/throttle. I know Emtron can run twin drive by wire and are an awesome ECU. Better off keeping the DBW throttles, better than going cable. I dont see you ever actually getting it done but good luck and I hope you do.

I think he's referring to you saying it can't be totally fixed is wrong. The car is in pieces so can't take a pic, also don't have any pics from before as the bay was ugly so not worth taking pics of

Good details, thanks heaps!

Damn thought that was the case. Thanks GTSBoy. So my best bet is to aim the BOV recirc toward the turbo and have some bends and distance between the recirc entry and the AFM.

Can a power FC run a MAP sensor? I know the D-jetro can run it but I don't really know much about the d-jetro, will have to look into it.

Thanks Ben, anyone else with more insight? Because it does it when there's not much boost and load too, for example if I'm cruising doing 100km/hr and put the clutch in for a few seconds or if I'm cruising and just clutch in and brake.

Currently have an aftermarket BOV in the standard place near the TB plumbed into the intake at a 90degree like a T fitting. How should it be plumbed in?

Sorry this has probably been covered a million times but I searched for 45mins+ and couldn't find the specifics. I have an RB25DET from S2 33 with PFC and Z32 and GT3071, it has the typical reversion stalling problem. From what I've read it's to do with the AFM distance from the turbo inlet and something to do with the bends and smooth surface of the piping. What I want to confirm is, some bends are needed and it needs to be a decent distance from the turbo inlet, correct? I'm basically running some silicone hose joiners/bends and the AFM and a metal reducer. Should I be looking at trying to reduce the use of the silicone hose/joiner/bend things and going mainly metal? Would making up a bracket and attaching it to the body help or is that just stupid lol? Any tips, tricks etc? Hope it was to long winded and confusing. Cheers!

Where in Sydney? Would you take $100 cash?

I should have mentioned that I'm running a GKTECH lock bar and inner tie rods, so they have rose joint spherical bearing things same as the kit u pictured, which will compensate for loss of ball joint during suspension travel, I think?Thanks to all for the replies so far, keep it coming

Hi, A few things. How have people found their experience with CZP? Feel free to private message if you don't wang to post publicly. Did everything get delivered and in good condition and what is the quality and figment of their parts like? Secondly, their outer rear tie rod ends that delete the ball joint in favour of poly bushes, anyone used it before? If so how was it? Lastly just to confirm, this will work on a 32 GTST with HICASlock bar correct? Link below to item in question https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=6996

I spent 10-15mins on Google and 10mins onSAU lol. Now I know definitely to search for outer rod ends. Cheers

I'm pretty sure it is the outer rod ends that I need. I have the delete bar and the arms that come off the delete bar, I just need the ends that connect the arms to the knuckle

Hey guys, trying to get some new rear toe arms (is that what they're called?) for my 32 GTST with HICAS. Basically the end of the rear steering rack that connect the rack arm to the knuckle. I went to repco on the weekend and they had nothing on th system at all. Is my only choice to go genuine Nissan? Not after anything fancy. Thanks

Alright sweet, pretty much figured they were the 2 locations, just heard some one say about using somewhere in the head for water temp. Will have to look for one that uses ignition, never really looked before so not sure what one.

Hi, sorry if this is in the wrong spot or has been covered a million times, I did do a quick search. Where's the best place to tap into for the sender for each one (water temp and oil temp) and also where's the best place to get the positive power from so that they come on with the reds? If there's a thread/FAQ that details this then a libk would be great! Thanks in advance.

I thought that may be the case! Thanks

Hi all, I am deleting HICAS and while I'm at it I bought new arms the come out of the HICAS lock bar. My problem is I'm trying to remove the original steering arm/tie rod things that bolt to the rear knuckles. I've taken out the pin and undo e the nut but for the life of me I can't get the arm to come off as per the picture below. Any hints tips or tricks?

WTB: RB25 harmonic balancer. Preferably in Sudney area. I'm in Western Sydney so the closer to me the better. Cheers!

Does anyone have the OEM part numbers for tension and idle pulley bolts? Thanks in advance

Sorry I thought I mentioned it was for a 32 GTST

Can't find a whole bonnet on eBay only the panel to fit to any bonnet ( which is fine ). But it just doesn't look great in the pic.

That setup looks awesome! I understand the value may not be there but I would still like to look into a manifold for later (who knows I'll probably get 350kW then want more). My goal is not outright power, it's torque, drivability etc in good package. The exhaust manifold isn't high on my priority list but I like to do research. Thanks for the help and advice

And what was the reason for not going an aftermarket manifold?