Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well, this is new to me. a new forum topic. hope it doesn't get snowed under...

I just picked up my 1990 gts-4 from compliance (in Melbourne). Nice, started straight away.

Drove round the corner to put in 20L of fuel... Again, no problem starting.

Got home and couldn't re-start the thing.

It had plenty of time to cool down (if its not on boost, there is no need to leave it running to cool the turbo, right?)

Occasionally it will briefly (1/2 a second) tick over, but then it dies.

It has been suggested to me that it is fuel starvation. Fuel filter is top of the "I can do it" list. Mechanic is second (and an RWC). Is there any way I can check it? Or are there any other ideas / theories?

I just don't get why it worked before and not now. Talk about deflating expectations

And yes, I tried the search button. 'search flooding', according to the server. I don't get it - I am sure that I have seen these type of posts many a time before. Oh well, If I have transgressed, I am sure I will be told.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100047-rb20det-wont-start/
Share on other sites

when it doesn't start what are the symptoms you see/hear?

do the lights go dim? does it cough and splutter?

does it tound like it wants to start but simply doesnt?

do you hear the fuel pump prime when u turn to acc and on?

starter mortor turns over

most of the time nothing, and then it will splutter for a second and die.

to me it sounds like it wants to start

I can hear the fuel pump prime when I turn the ignition on

One of the warning lights comes on -

S S S

_____

== ===

-----

left of the 'open door' light, and under the '4wd' light. I don't know what it is, and it *may* be relevant.

I get off at 2 today (home at 3), so I'll be checking it out then.

thanks

Edited by ebola

You dont have an alarm do you? My parents SS did the same thing.. would start, die, start, die.

Disconnected the battery and it worked fine after that, though it was the imoboliser doing it. Maybe check all your fuses.... thats where i'd start, then the obvious filters, etc.

Dayne

My car has no alarm, and I had already checked the fuses.

Your suggestion about the filters is close though.

The airbox was hardly connected to the turbo intake. Check the filter, knock the pipe off, engine wont start, post on SAU, look dumb, re-connect hose, clamp the thing on PROPERLEY, smooth as anything.

First bit of fun with my new car. Woo Hoo!!!!

Thanks for the suggestions though, all filed away for future reference.

you got spark right? if not id say igntion module... memba ur car needs three things.. spark air fuel.... fuel, could be ur fuel reg

spark.. make sure ur CAS is connected correctly. manual or auto?

need to give us more info dude

My car has no alarm, and I had already checked the fuses.

Your suggestion about the filters is close though.

The airbox was hardly connected to the turbo intake. Check the filter, knock the pipe off, engine wont start, post on SAU, look dumb, re-connect hose, clamp the thing on PROPERLEY, smooth as anything.

First bit of fun with my new car. Woo Hoo!!!!

Thanks for the suggestions though, all filed away for future reference.

you got spark right? if not id say igntion module... memba ur car needs three things.. spark air fuel.... fuel, could be ur fuel reg

spark.. make sure ur CAS is connected correctly. manual or auto?

need to give us more info dude

I meant that I got my car working. Though as usual, my statements are as clear as mud.

spark, air and fuel.

could smell the fuel (so there was some), and the fact that it would splutter for a second or two implied ignition (and compression).

I had forgotten about air.

I had checked the paper element in the air filter (needs replacing, but not urgently), and it seems the hose clamp wasn't on properly. The hose had come off the airbox. I guess I'm lucky it stayed put driving it home.

Because there was no air flow through the MAF sensor, it wasn't starting. I guess when it went for 1/2 a second the vibration of the motor being turned made it line up briefly.

Its a manual, and as it was a simple *stupid* thing, I have not taken the CAS module off to check it. RWC, rego, THEN I get to play.

Again, thanks to the people on the forum for helping.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...