Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Firstly happy new year to you all, all the best.

I'm droping the oil, changing the sparkies but i come across a problem! I undo the oil filter YET i can't get it out of the engine bay!

Yes you heard right, i can't get it out of the engine bay, sounds stupid but RB26 is a tank engine, i've got an oil cooler as well with braided line but that doesn't seem to be the problem.

I think its the two little motor sitting slightly opposite with the oilfilter that i got stuck with.

Any tips, tricks please give them to me.

Thank you very much. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100240-urgent-help-please/
Share on other sites

that bloody HICAS pump is really a pain.

All I can tell you is that you can get it out.....the hoses for the oil cooler and the HICAS pump are pretty hard to move but they will flex a bit if you need the to.

Thanks Duncan! Worked out now, funny enough i've got my little nephew to use his little hand and still he couldn't get it out.

The little shit came up with a brillitant idea by slotted his finger into the filter hole and guide it out and it worked! Hahaha another word there were just enough room for the filter.

Remote oil filter relocation kit is on the way :P even though i heard you can loose a bit of pressure by doing that.

That depends on how the oil cooler is installed, but generally no since the oil cooler may not drain.

Just fill it up to high on the dipstick, start it and check the dipstick again once oil pressure is up

All fixed. 5 littre of 10w-60 Castrol R. 5 littres bloody hell hahaha.

I also found something supiscous, just under the oil filter there is a sort of brass looking tube, a little one like for a vacum line that's not hook up. I look around but there is no rubber line around anywhere so for now i *assume* that its all safe.

Will investigate further.

All fixed. 5 littre of 10w-60 Castrol R. 5 littres bloody hell hahaha.

I also found something supiscous, just under the oil filter there is a sort of brass looking tube, a little one like for a vacum line that's not hook up. I look around but there is no rubber line around anywhere so for now i *assume* that its all safe.

Will investigate further.

Its a diff breather. There should be a hose coming off the front diff to that brass thing thats bent at 90 degrees

Its a diff breather. There should be a hose coming off the front diff to that brass thing thats bent at 90 degrees

I see, so i'll have to look for that hose then plug it back in! What does it do? Any effect, damage if it doesn't get plug back in?

I see, so i'll have to look for that hose then plug it back in! What does it do? Any effect, damage if it doesn't get plug back in?

Its just a breather for the diff but if you dont put back in you may get water or rubish in the diff so you better put it back a.s.a.p. .

You will see the pipe on the top of the diff the hose should be atached to that .

I see, so i'll have to look for that hose then plug it back in! What does it do? Any effect, damage if it doesn't get plug back in?

Just like wrxhoon said above.

Like all things, having it in its place is good.

First have a look at your front diff, there is a small attachment coming off it. It should have a rubber hose coming off this going to that brass piece which should be bolted to the inlet manifold.

Also i've heard a lot about copper and platium sparkies, i know and felt the different, everytime after Ben gave my car a set of fresh sparkies and oil, the car feel awesome.

Anyway, whats' the different in kw wise between them too? Also maybe we should have a sticky General Mantainance section for GTR?

there is no power diff between copper and plats. Plats are a little more resistent to missing under lots of power/boost.

Coppers are still fine as well - Leewah even runs coppers still :blink:

Wow Leewah runs coppers too?

Is castrol R 10-60 correct? What's the rating telling me?

castrol 10w-60 is the best oil.

its got a great heat range and can take alot. used in in my GTiR and my GTR. when i put my FMIC on the GTiR oil temps went above 120-130 on that guage? still goes hard. such a good blend. i did an oil flush soon as i got my GTR from japan. last "logged" service was 30k ago :|

getting my old filter off was piss hard.. cant even get a ratchet round it. took 30 mins.. it is a bit of a tight squeeze.. glad only have to do it every 3,000kms.

what u running coppers.. whats the part number on that?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...