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Rotating Exhaust Housing On Gt30r

PHaT MR30

By PHaT MR30,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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PHaT MR30 Grand Master

PHaT MR30

Posted
Posted

He had it low mounted, ive got to high mount it.

Taken all bolts off the exhaust housing except 1 (which is loose, but the oil drain fitment is in the way), but i cannot for the life of me get it off or move it to get the last bolt out and rotate it in an orderly fashion.

HELP me PLEASE!!!!!!!!

<- thats a pic there in my signature

cheers

Tim

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Denver Grand Master

Denver

Posted
Posted

might need to get a bit of crc onto it to loosen it up, and use a bit og gentle persistance, read lightly wack it with a hammer on the housing to seperate it from the cartridge..

before getting to angtsy with it, try using the handle of the hammer to tap it off/loose

  • 2 months later...
JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted

I need to rotate my new turbo housing as well, otherwise the compressor outlet will be pointing straight up towards the bonnet on my cheapass highmount manifold. Do you have to remove the housing entirely or can you do it by twisting after using CRC on it? Also I think a rubber mallet might be a better thing to whack it with than a wooden handle, luckily I've got one of those :(

What is the optimal direction for the compressor outlet to be facing? Optimal for saving space and piping I mean, I doubt it means much to the flow efficiency. Horizontally or downwards seem to be popular directions on pics that I've seen. I think my current turbo is horizontal from memory but it's a low mount.

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

Jim .. the direction would be limited by where the turbo's compressor housing sits in relation to the strut tower..

if it sits forward of it, i'd run it horrizontally.

but if like mine and is next to the strut tower, you have to point in down,

shouldn't need to whack it with anything if its new, but you can always remove all the bolts and carefully remove the housing completely then replace in correct location.

JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted

Ah thanks, I'll keep that in mind when I line everything up. I dread having to remove the housing altogether, it seems like brain surgery to me to do that to a turbo! But probably better than belting it into position with a mallet.

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

Generally its a case of heating the exhaust housing with the oxy (no not the cutting torch) and tapping it gently and evenly away from the cartridge . A small knockometre is generally easier and I would be using a copper one given a choise .

Cheers A .

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

I've had a lot of success with keeping all the bolt in but backed off about half a turn, supporting the comp cover/core in a vice (not too tight but enough to support it and prevent it spinning) then using the handle off a hammer inside the turbine inlet and levering it to break the seal (for lack of a better term). the bolts prevent it from trying to come off at an angle and damaging the turbine in the process.

Once you get it going it's pretty easy to spin it/remove it completely.

RACESPEC Rising Star

RACESPEC

Posted
Posted
Generally its a case of heating the exhaust housing with the oxy (no not the cutting torch) and tapping it gently and evenly away from the cartridge . A small knockometre is generally easier and I would be using a copper one given a choise .

Cheers A .

The man is correct once again. Previously used turbos from our experience, need heating to allow for the expansion of either the housing or cartridge to allow them to separate

with the new turbos, its a matter of loosening the bolts and rotating, as they have not been exposed to the heat of the manifolds and engine bay, they have not contracted in and formed a tight seal yet

I too would either use a copper, if not even better, lead

Thanks

RACESPEC SALES TEAM

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