Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, firstly I apologise if this is in the wrong section, as I wasn't sure if it should go in General, Handling etc. Secondl apologies if this has been posted before, I did run several searches looking for this information but couldnt find everything I wanted.

No doubt having said that, someone's going to post about three or four search strings proving me wrong, so apologies in advance.

Basically i'm after two bits of information.

1) Does anyone know of any places or sites that have lightweight flywheels of good quality. If physical stores, in the queensland region.

I know of Nengun and Modyourcar. Nengun have an ORC for around $550. Is this a good price?

2) My second question is for those who have taken the lightened flywheel route, for an everyday driver, what is a good weight to go for on the car? I see the majority around the 4.8-5Kg range.

I know that the lightened flywheel affects that ability of the car to provide torque, (in a sense) thus when the car has to carry more load it must work harder than normal. I was just wondering of any other side effects that are evident with a lightened flywheel. IE: Fuel usage, idle quality, highway cruising quality etc.

3) This is my last question I promise. What is a good price for a lightened flywheel, and is it better to have a stock one ground down/balanced and machined. Or buy a chrome-molly lightened one etc?

Thanks for your patience and thanks in advance to any input or advice.

-Tom

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100600-lightened-flywheels-on-r33-skylines/
Share on other sites

Lightened flywheels have been covered many many times before on this board.

I found the car to accelerate easier from a standing start, gear changes at wot felt quicker and much less likely to crunch, overall there was zero negatives, zero difference in fuel consumption, zero difference in vibration.

yer the search function can be a bit of a pain in the arse some times. Practice makes perfect. :(

I'm soon to grab a lightened flywheel, this time around I will grab one witha replaceable insert. Ceramic clutch's hammer them.

Edited by Cubes
I'm soon to grab a lightened flywheel, this time around I will grab one witha  replaceable insert. Ceramic clutch's hammer them.

i second that! i had some mild wear and tear marks on my flywheel when i changed my clutch, at the time i couldnt spare the cash or have the car off the road for another week to do the flywheel properly so ye olde emmery paper had suffice as a temp thing. 10 months down the track ive noticed if im lazy with the gear changes it shudders like no tomorrow. Gearbox is on its last legs at the moment so ill do it properly this time round and get a new flywheel when the gearbox is done.

Thanks for the reminder cubes! After the box is done maybe i can join the RB30 club. I dont wanna do the motor if my gearbox is cactus. I might even try to grandpa the car round for an extra couple of months so i can do box and motor at the same time. That way the old man is happy because i wont be using his precious garage space.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • List all of your mods. It sounds like an aftermarket ECU hitting rev limiter. Like a valet mode, or a cold rpm limiter? 
    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
×
×
  • Create New...